OAK - need air intake fitting

[Lowarea]

Preparing to install an oak on my Cumberland (avatar pic).

Planning to run 3" metal duct vent pipe from back of stove along brick hearth then 90 out rear wall. At that point it will 90 again inside an attached garage then vent out to the outside through the garage wall.

I'm using the 3" rigid vent due to length of the draw and the 3 90s in the run. Plus I can paint it black, helping to hid the pipe leaving the hearth pad.

Problem: I can't locate a 3" to 2" reducer to connect air intake on stove to 3" metal duct work. (shouldn't be this hard)

Simpson makes a reducer (3pvp-inc) however I can't locate a supplier. I've searched the net for any other metal reducer and apparently no one makes one.

Any suggestions?

I see from other postings that many people are using pvc, however local code requires metal duct.

 

[jintoreedwine]

I can't look this up now, but I was able to get that particular reducer you are talking about from a source I found online. I did have to call them to place the order though, as I couldn't find the part on their website.

I'll post back later when I have access to my desktop computer.

 

[Daveman]

I had the local muffler shop fab mine up.....cost me 2 coffees and 10 minutes

 

[jintoreedwine]

I couldn't find the invoice to tell you how much it was, but the website was ventingpipe.com and I had to call them and specifically request the part via the part number (3pvp-inc.) Note that this part seems to be meant to be used with 3" aluminum flex pipe, so I don't know how compatible it is with the rigid ducting that you say you are using. I'm not saying it won't be, just that I'm really not sure.

 

[teddyturnpickle]

Update us on how it goes. I own the same stove, the manual says for every 90 you use it is like adding 3 feet of straight pipe. I feel like my stove doesn't get enough air already and my oak is a straight pipe 2' long at the max.

 

[SKOAL MAN]

A hose clamp is 50 cents!

 

[jdinny]

Go to your local auto parts store with the dimensions you need.
Probably have an adapter/reducer for exhaust pipe that will hook you right up.

 

[Lowarea]

ventingpipe.com and I had to call them and specifically request the part via the part number (3pvp-inc.)

I'll follow up with this site Monday. Thanks for the info. I have contacted three other online suppliers for this Duravent Part (3pvp-inc) but none would supply it. (surprising)

If Ventpipe.com can't get it I'll try the local muffler shop.

I did try the auto parts store for any combination of off the shelf muffler parts, but none would get me from 2 to 3" in three steps or fewer.

 

[SKOAL MAN]

I stressed about this for over a week when I first hooked up my stove, someone suggested to just squish it. Then I realized nobody is going to see this so why does it have to look pretty, I just put a hose clamp on and squished it down, haven't looked back since!

 

[jintoreedwine]

I stressed about this for over a week when I first hooked up my stove, someone suggested to just squish it. Then I realized nobody is going to see this so why does it have to look pretty, I just put a hose clamp on and squished it down, haven't looked back since!

You are right, the aesthetics are not important so long as the stove is getting sufficient air, but for whatever reason, I sleep better at night knowing I did it with the 3" to 2" reducer -- so I can understand if the OP wants to do so for the same or some other reason . Sure, it is more work and more expensive to do it that way, but it is hard to put a price on peace of mind!

 

[SKOAL MAN]

You are right, the aesthetics are not important so long as the stove is getting sufficient air, but for whatever reason, I sleep better at night knowing I did it with the 3" to 2" reducer -- so I can understand if the OP wants to do so for the same or some other reason . Sure, it is more work and more expensive to do it that way, but it is hard to put a price on peace of mind!

I would agree with you if it was on the exhaust side, but you can bend that flex with your finger, so once the clamp is tightened it's done. What could you possibly benefit by adding a 1/8" thick reducer?

 

[jintoreedwine]

2" is heaps big enough. Why dont you just try a piece of 2" hose or plastic pipe to prove the point then lash out on the metal stuff. Just consider the technical theory of small hole in big hole out.

I feel like the OP's concern is prudent. He has a longer run with 3 90 degree turns. I don't have his stove, but for example, my stove manual says that for runs longer than 6 feet or runs with more than 2 90s that you should run 3" ducting for your OAK.

Better to run the 3" and not need it than run 2" and have air issues down the road!

 

[jintoreedwine]

I dont understand why you wouldn't use my try before you buy approach.
If 2" works at the start it aint ever gonna give you "issues down the road". The exhaust, on the other hand is a whole different kettle of fish.

My thought is that to properly simulate what the final setup is like you'll have already drilled holes through walls. In my experience enlarging such holes can be a pain. With your approach you would presumably drill holes for 2" ducting, even if it was just Pvc for a test setup. Once you go through all that trouble, if the test didn't work, you'd have to go back and enlarge the holes, which would be a major pain in the butt.

I think that is why the OP wants to just start with 3". It isn't that much more expensive or time consuming to run 3" vs 2" so what's the harm?