Old Bar/New Bar

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

thewoodlands

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Aug 25, 2009
16,749
In The Woods
The new 36 inch bar will need new holes drilled in it so it oils the proper way, can I put the old bar over top the new bar then mark out the holes then drill?

zap
 

Attachments

  • Old Bar/New Bar
    100_5025.JPG
    45.3 KB · Views: 161
  • Old Bar/New Bar
    100_5026.JPG
    50.2 KB · Views: 145
Sure no problem.The mounting pattern should be the same.
 
don't drill all the way through, just through the side that will be against the oil supply channel. Post some results when you get a chance...looking at your pics it looks as if the hole you have highlighted with the arrows is the same as the hole on the new bar. Maybe just the way it looks on the pics.....
 
If I drilled all the way through what would be the big difference, use more oil?

zap
 
If I drilled all the way through what would be the big difference, use more oil?

zap
possibly, by drilling on only one side that means you are forcing the oil to go into the chain, at least that is why I figure all the newer bars only have the oil hole in the supply side of the bar.
 
  • Like
Reactions: zap
If I drilled all the way through what would be the big difference, use more oil?

zap

Depends on what's on the other side of the bar. If the clutch cover dead ends the hole effectively then you prob wouldn't notice the difference. I'd try for drilling just one side tho. Maybe start the hole and finish it with an endmill in a drill press. 135 degree split point bit made from HSS or Cobalt steel for the drilling.
 
  • Like
Reactions: smokinj
Depends on what's on the other side of the bar. If the clutch cover dead ends the hole effectively then you prob wouldn't notice the difference. I'd try for drilling just one side tho. Maybe start the hole and finish it with an endmill in a drill press. 135 degree split point bit made from HSS or Cobalt steel for the drilling.

LOL, Those bars are tough to drill! Old Bar/New Bar Its cold lard time again...
 
I just have a drill so by the sounds of it the going will be tough.

zap
 
I just have a drill so by the sounds of it the going will be tough.

zap

Oh ya! Be worth finding someone with press but it can be done with a drill and an hour or two.;)
 
Those bars are crazy hard to drill. I wouldn't want to try it without a drill press...a centerpunch isn't going to do much to keep your bit in place if you are doing it with a regular old drill.
 
Dremel tool with a 1/8" tungsten carbide bit. Slicker than chit......bits are around 8 bucks at HD.
 
I know about three people that have drill presses, 1 hates using his equipment in fear of wearing it out, strange but a good guy, he's out, the second is a pain in the ass, he's out, the third seems like a real good guy but I don't know him well enough, he does like wild leeks and loves fishing trout so I guess a bag of leeks or a few days of fishing in the brook could be traded.

What are the best drill bits for a hand drill for hard steel.

zap
 
I opened up the bar stud groove and modded my oil holes with that bit. Works like a charm....

If I'm lyin', I'm cryin'!
 
I opened up the bar stud groove and modded my oil holes with that bit. Works like a charm....

If I'm lyin', I'm cryin'!

If it could beat a 1974 cummins press
I opened up the bar stud groove and modded my oil holes with that bit. Works like a charm....

If I'm lyin', I'm cryin'!

Have you ever started and finish the whole in the bar with this set-up?
 
  • Like
Reactions: ScotO
If it could beat a 1974 cummins press


Have you ever started and finish the whole in the bar with this set-up?
Yes sir. Start out very slowly with the bullet tip bit. If you go fast it wants to go haywire on ya!
 
  • Like
Reactions: smokinj
Keep your speed of rotation as low as possible, Lots of cutting fluid the more the better helps carry heat away do not jam the bit let it take its time as this type of steel, if it gets too hot, will form a glass hard surface at the intersection of the bit and bar.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Realstone
You can do an awful lot with a cheap drill press and a dual axis vise. (lets you move the work along the X and Y axis) Helluva lot easier the Scotty's dremel!
Old Bar/New Bar
Zap, high speed steel or cobalt for the drill bits. You're going to need something to finish the holes tho without breaking through and starting on the other side of the bar. I recommend an end mill, especially if you have access to a drill press, but Scotty's dremel could work too.

The vise is unnecessary for adding the oil holes but would do a super job if you had to modify the stud opening.
 
  • Like
Reactions: smokinj
Looks like the drilling starts tonight, it might be that I just have to open up the existing holes some.

zap
 
  • Like
Reactions: smokinj
Looks like the drilling starts tonight, it might be that I just have to open up the existing holes some.

zap

That is my bet. If it is getting oil, just not enough, open it up a bit. A carbide burr bit might just be the ticket for that (don't go cheap on the bit, or you will be traveling back to the hardware store for another) Expect $20+ to fly out of your pocket for the bit.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ScotO and zap
Status
Not open for further replies.