Older Oslo [Baffle question]

[Toploader]

I just installed a used Oslo [2002 vintage], wow! I forgot what an amazing stove these things are, I had a small fire the other night, softwood offcuts only, and the heat nearly drove me out of the house. The stove is so heavy, just 20lbs lighter than the F600 and guess that mass is one reason why it is such solid heater. Such a pretty stove as well and this one is flat black but has a subtle shininess where the paint has worn off and the metal shows through, it's a nice look and I don't think I will paint it.
I took it apart and cleaned it, replaced a few gaskets and adjusted the ash pan door but the two piece cast baffles are warped and the insulation blanket also needs replacing. I thought I read somewhere that replacing the cast baffle with the Vermiculite one was possible but I can't seem to find the thread now. My local supplier says only the cast baffles come up when he searches for 2002 models, does anyone know whether or not it is possible or even desirable to switch to the vermiculite?
I was also wondering if there is any maintenance necessary for the secondary air system assuming it all looks good is there any need, for instance, to take it apart and clean all the components to make sure the air is flowing?
Also I replaced a broken fire brick but could only source a lighter more porous type of brick, is this type of brick suitable?
Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks; Brian

 

[begreen]

I'd stick with the cast baffle if that is what the stove is designed for. It's less fragile. I don't think using a pumice brick will hurt anything.

 

[Toploader]

I'd stick with the cast baffle if that is what the stove is designed for. It's less fragile. I don't think using a pumice brick will hurt anything.

Thanks begreen; What do you think about the secondary air, any need to take it apart and clean it out?

 

[begreen]

Not if it is functioning well. Usually ash does not get into the secondary manifold because it's under positive pressure. Clean out the entire area where the ash pan sits. Ash can get impacted in the back of that area. Use a poker or a screwdriver to get it really clean.

 

[Toploader]

Not if it is functioning well. Usually ash does not get into the secondary manifold because it's under positive pressure. Clean out the entire area where the ash pan sits. Ash can get impacted in the back of that area. Use a poker or a screwdriver to get it really clean.

Great; thanks very much for taking the time.

 

[topoftheriver]

I just installed a used Oslo [2002 vintage], wow! I forgot what an amazing stove these things are, I had a small fire the other night, softwood offcuts only, and the heat nearly drove me out of the house. The stove is so heavy, just 20lbs lighter than the F600 and guess that mass is one reason why it is such solid heater. Such a pretty stove as well and this one is flat black but has a subtle shininess where the paint has worn off and the metal shows through, it's a nice look and I don't think I will paint it.
I took it apart and cleaned it, replaced a few gaskets and adjusted the ash pan door but the two piece cast baffles are warped and the insulation blanket also needs replacing. I thought I read somewhere that replacing the cast baffle with the Vermiculite one was possible but I can't seem to find the thread now. My local supplier says only the cast baffles come up when he searches for 2002 models, does anyone know whether or not it is possible or even desirable to switch to the vermiculite?
I was also wondering if there is any maintenance necessary for the secondary air system assuming it all looks good is there any need, for instance, to take it apart and clean all the components to make sure the air is flowing?
Also I replaced a broken fire brick but could only source a lighter more porous type of brick, is this type of brick suitable?
Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks; Brian

I recently took my Oslo 500 apart to replace the baffle ( just the top). Broke a screw in one of the holes and had a hard time but finally got it out. It is now back together and working and just as efficient as it was when I bought it. So I am up and running and using less wood than when it was broken and everything was going up the chimney.

 

[topoftheriver]

I'd stick with the cast baffle if that is what the stove is designed for. It's less fragile. I don't think using a pumice brick will hurt anything.

Begreen........... There is a possibility that the 2002 Oslo 500 had the vermiculite baffles. When you have the chance, I'd like to know more of why you like the cast baffle.

 

[stovelark]

FYI- The Oslo had cast baffles from Nov 1999 thru early 2004. Jotul has given the approval of replacing the orig cast baffles with the vermiculite baffle, but the two piece cast is still offered. I do believe if treated properly (not running the stove with the ash door open) the cast baffles will outlast the vermiculite single piece baffle (and possibly save a baseplate from cracking too, not running it with the ash door open). The cast baffles cost about 54.00 each, the vermiculite baffle costs about 51.00. Good luck.

 

[topoftheriver]

FYI- The Oslo had cast baffles from Nov 1999 thru early 2004. Jotul has given the approval of replacing the orig cast baffles with the vermiculite baffle, but the two piece cast is still offered. I do believe if treated properly (not running the stove with the ash door open) the cast baffles will outlast the vermiculite single piece baffle (and possibly save a baseplate from cracking too, not running it with the ash door open). The cast baffles cost about 54.00 each, the vermiculite baffle costs about 51.00. Good luck.

I had thought that Jotul and others made the change because the baffles warped and let heat through preventing proper circulation.

 

[xman23]

My Oslo, 2000 or 2001 vintage has the cast baffles. It was a year or two later they switched to the vermiculite baffles. There could have been new stoves around for a few years with cast baffles. Mine are 12 years old, and I just noticed they have a slight twist. Not much of a issue, as they are both the same, and reversing them they fit well. The blanket seals them off. It seams like the cast would be more durable. Maybe someone with the vermiculite can comment about there's. You do know they slip out to the front. I wondered how you broke off the top bolt. I've never had the top or the secondary air manifold or tubes apart. It looks like the side manifolds come apart with that bolt thru the middle of them. every time I look at it I quit as I'm sure I would break the bolt off getting it apart.


I posted hear a few year ago a source for the insulation blanket material. For Jotul's price for one, I got a roll that I can cut 10, maybe more. I replace it every 2 or 3 years. Just replaced mine this year. If my posting of that vendor, size etc is not found PM, me and I will get it this weekend.

 

[jotulguy]

The change was made because the skamol baffle gave the stove cleaner combustion. While not a durable to impact it is more durable to the high then the cast version. Both are still available and depending on your preference fine to use either.

 

[Toploader]

I recently took my Oslo 500 apart to replace the baffle ( just the top). Broke a screw in one of the holes and had a hard time but finally got it out. It is now back together and working and just as efficient as it was when I bought it. So I am up and running and using less wood than when it was broken and everything was going up the chimney.

I was wondering about doing this because I don't see much evidence of secondary burning. My baffles are warped and I've ordered 2 more of the cast ones but I would have chosen the Skamol baffle if I'd known for sure they are interchangeable. Do you notice more secondary burning now with the new baffles? The oval top plate on my stove is not screwed on so changing the baffle is very easy for me although replacing with the 1 piece baffle would require removing the top.
This my second Oslo and I remember the 1st one had more active secondaries than this one so I'm hoping the new baffles will make the difference.

 

[Toploader]

My Oslo, 2000 or 2001 vintage has the cast baffles. It was a year or two later they switched to the vermiculite baffles. There could have been new stoves around for a few years with cast baffles. Mine are 12 years old, and I just noticed they have a slight twist. Not much of a issue, as they are both the same, and reversing them they fit well. The blanket seals them off. It seams like the cast would be more durable. Maybe someone with the vermiculite can comment about there's. You do know they slip out to the front. I wondered how you broke off the top bolt. I've never had the top or the secondary air manifold or tubes apart. It looks like the side manifolds come apart with that bolt thru the middle of them. every time I look at it I quit as I'm sure I would break the bolt off getting it apart.


I posted hear a few year ago a source for the insulation blanket material. For Jotul's price for one, I got a roll that I can cut 10, maybe more. I replace it every 2 or 3 years. Just replaced mine this year. If my posting of that vendor, size etc is not found PM, me and I will get it this weekend.

I ordered a new insulation blanket as well. Is there any noticeable performance improvement when the new one goes on?

 

[xman23]

My blanket was never so bad that the new one made a difference I could tell.

 

[topoftheriver]

My Oslo, 2000 or 2001 vintage has the cast baffles. It was a year or two later they switched to the vermiculite baffles. There could have been new stoves around for a few years with cast baffles. Mine are 12 years old, and I just noticed they have a slight twist. Not much of a issue, as they are both the same, and reversing them they fit well. The blanket seals them off. It seams like the cast would be more durable. Maybe someone with the vermiculite can comment about there's. You do know they slip out to the front. I wondered how you broke off the top bolt. I've never had the top or the secondary air manifold or tubes apart. It looks like the side manifolds come apart with that bolt thru the middle of them. every time I look at it I quit as I'm sure I would break the bolt off getting it apart.


I posted hear a few year ago a source for the insulation blanket material. For Jotul's price for one, I got a roll that I can cut 10, maybe more. I replace it every 2 or 3 years. Just replaced mine this year. If my posting of that vendor, size etc is not found PM, me and I will get it this weekend.

The baffle cannot come out the front on my Oslo. I got the procedure here on hearth.com. There are 3 screws. Two in the front and one in the back. There are also a couple of different procedures. In my opinion, you do not have to take out the center plate. The front screws are reach easily with a rachet extention.

I had the problem with the rear screw near the smoke outlet. The rear part of the vermiculite baffle was damaged, probably by me, but no less damaged so that there was a hole in the middle causing the flames and gases to go out the rear instead of going around the front. The heat probably affected the screw in the back. When I tried to turn it, the screw eventually broke.

In a different forum I had asked about it and a reply stated that you could put the top back on and the weight alone is sufficient to make the seal for the smoke and exhaust. Although I don't know if that is actually true because I didn't try it, the new Jotul TL50 is a top loader and the weight of the top plate is enough to keep the seal on that stove. That top door is not as heavy as the top of the Oslo 500. So the poster who stated the weight of the top is heavy enough may be correct.

As far as the vermiculite is concerned, I think it can take higher heat levels and it DOES NOT warp or disfigure as far as I can see. That is proof in the damaged baffle I removed. It was still flat except for the part in the back that had broken off, maybe from stuffing logs in late at night before bedtime.

 

[stovelark]

The only proper way to change the vermiculite baffle out is to take the top off. Pre-soak the 3 10MM screws (two in front, one in back centerline), all are easily accessible. Lift the top off (its heavy) and remove the blanket and old baffles. The vermiculite just sits on the tubes. While you're in there, furnace cement the sec air manifolds again and tighten things up/check on them. My Oslo was 8 years old, still had the cast baffles. I ran my moderate, about 2 cords a season and never observed any warping. I've seen warpage from the ash door being open too much though. This is a very robust heater, a homerun in every sense of what a woodstove should be. Cast or ceramic baffle, its hard to beat an Oslo. I plan on returning to one myself, not because of my Enviro's performance (its outstanding..) but I must admit, Jotul makes a beautiful stove. Good luck to all.

 

[Toploader]

The only proper way to change the vermiculite baffle out is to take the top off. Pre-soak the 3 10MM screws (two in front, one in back centerline), all are easily accessible. Lift the top off (its heavy) and remove the blanket and old baffles. The vermiculite just sits on the tubes. While you're in there, furnace cement the sec air manifolds again and tighten things up/check on them. My Oslo was 8 years old, still had the cast baffles. I ran my moderate, about 2 cords a season and never observed any warping. I've seen warpage from the ash door being open too much though. This is a very robust heater, a homerun in every sense of what a woodstove should be. Cast or ceramic baffle, its hard to beat an Oslo. I plan on returning to one myself, not because of my Enviro's performance (its outstanding..) but I must admit, Jotul makes a beautiful stove. Good luck to all.

Thanks a lot Stovelark; this reassures me that it's fine to stick with the cast baffles.
I have to agree with you that this stove is hard to beat, I just love how worry free and reliable it is, it really belts out the heat and it just might be the best looking stove ever.
My only complaint with this one is that it makes a very audible "wind blowing" sound as it draws in it's air, when I open one of the doors it stops. I wonder if this can somehow be quieted. Do you have any ideas?

 

[topoftheriver]

The only proper way to change the vermiculite baffle out is to take the top off. Pre-soak the 3 10MM screws (two in front, one in back centerline), all are easily accessible. Lift the top off (its heavy) and remove the blanket and old baffles. The vermiculite just sits on the tubes. While you're in there, furnace cement the sec air manifolds again and tighten things up/check on them. My Oslo was 8 years old, still had the cast baffles. I ran my moderate, about 2 cords a season and never observed any warping. I've seen warpage from the ash door being open too much though. This is a very robust heater, a homerun in every sense of what a woodstove should be. Cast or ceramic baffle, its hard to beat an Oslo. I plan on returning to one myself, not because of my Enviro's performance (its outstanding..) but I must admit, Jotul makes a beautiful stove. Good luck to all.

I agree with you, the Oslo is a great stove.

 

[topoftheriver]

Thanks a lot Stovelark; this reassures me that it's fine to stick with the cast baffles.
I have to agree with you that this stove is hard to beat, I just love how worry free and reliable it is, it really belts out the heat and it just might be the best looking stove ever.
My only complaint with this one is that it makes a very audible "wind blowing" sound as it draws in it's air, when I open one of the doors it stops. I wonder if this can somehow be quieted. Do you have any ideas?

I am wondering if you have an air leak somewhere on the stove. Have you checked the places where the cement is applied? My stove, even with the air all the way open doesn't make a noise that I have noticed. You also may want to check your ash pan door to make sure it is latched tightly and also check the gasketing. Just some thoughts.

 

[Toploader]

I am wondering if you have an air leak somewhere on the stove. Have you checked the places where the cement is applied? My stove, even with the air all the way open doesn't make a noise that I have noticed. You also may want to check your ash pan door to make sure it is latched tightly and also check the gasketing. Just some thoughts.

Thanks for the suggestions, I have checked the gaskets, they are good, and I don't think that the noise is coming from an air leak because I can affect the sound by putting my hand over the air intake in the back of the stove and this is the area where the sound comes from.

 

[stovelark]

Hey T-loader- never have ran across what you are describing... audible air being sucked in indicates obviously a strong draft- prob only way to find it is with a stethoscope going around the stove exterior and listening. Gotta say this one is a strange one..
Anyone have an idea??