One "Theory" On Why Ash Works So Well For Cleaning Glass

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turbocruiser

Feeling the Heat
Jun 10, 2011
329
Rocky Mountains Majesty
Fine folks, I'd like to share something and ask for thoughts.

After reading thread after thread about using ash to clean the glass I decided to try this method.

Previously I was using two products that Rutland makes. One was a spray called "Fireplace Glass Cleaner" and the other was a paste called "White Off". Both of these worked well enough but they both cost something whereas the ash costs nothing.

The first time I tried ash to clean the glass I was amazed at how well it worked even when I was purposely damping down the air control completely and getting some good soot and stuff baked on all over the glass.

If I had to give I guess I'd guess that the ash actually worked better than the two products purchased previously and I started trying to think through that and figure out why it worked so well.

The more that I think about it I think the effectiveness is possibly/probably due to one of the general rules regarding solubility which is "like dissolves like". In other words the compounds that collectively make up the soot and stuff on the glass are the same that make up the ash and thus when those compounds are dissolved into the water that is on the paper or paper towel they also aid in dissolving the dirt on the glass. Since the ash is much more soluble initially in water than the soot and stuff, by starting with the ash the ash then accelerates the dissolving of the soot and stuff.

Anyways, its just one theory on this but I would like to ask the experts what they think; I'm completely convinced that the ash works much more than water would alone and much more than something that simply is abrasive (like silica or sand) and there has to be a basic reason why it works so well compared even to products specially purposed for cleaning the soot and stuff off of glass. I maybe taking my assorted chemistry classes too far with this one theory but that's for you folks to tell me so I'm asking the question with the hope to learn the answer. Thanks As Always!
 
Sounds good to me! Been cleaning with ash for years and it's always been the best. Sorry I can't get more scientific.
 
We have hydraulic fluid on the bottom of our airplanes...guess what the best thing to use to clean that hydraulic fluid off the bellies of the aircraft is?
 
neumsky said:
We have hydraulic fluid on the bottom of our airplanes...guess what the best thing to use to clean that hydraulic fluid off the bellies of the aircraft is?

Ash?
 
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Hydraulic fluid....hahahaha.
 
Ash is a very fine abrasive. End of story. Cigarette ashes are often used in finish polishing antique furniture.
 
Years ago and still today, some make lye from wood ash and water. I've always came to the conclusion that when the ash is moistened, it forms a weak solution of lye. It seems to break down whatever is on the glass quickly.
 
I can't say whether or not there is any chemical action taking place by dampening the ash that helps with cleaning, but I do know that ash doesn't really dissolve in water. Because of that, I'd say it works as a very fine abrasive.

pen
 
Many cleaners work by being alkaline in the ph range. I think simple green works as its a alkaline cleaner.

Wood ashes are alkaline as if you put them in your garden it raises your ph which means it makes your soil more alkaline.

So maybe your making a cheap alkaline cleaner.
 
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DanCorcoran said:
Ash is a very fine abrasive. End of story. Cigarette ashes are often used in finish polishing antique furniture.

pen said:
I can't say whether or not there is any chemical action taking place by dampening the ash that helps with cleaning, but I do know that ash doesn't really dissolve in water. Because of that, I'd say it works as a very fine abrasive. pen

I agree about the abrasive action of the ash however, and not as an argument at all, the major components of wood ashes are potassium carbonate (potash), sodium carbonate (soda ash), potassium chloride (salt) and sodium chloride (salt) along with assorted compounds from the soil the tree is grown in such as silica and calcium carbonate. All sodium compounds and all potassium compounds are actually soluble in water. The silica isn't soluble in water. Dissolving potassium carbonate and sodium carbonate in water will produce both anions and cations both of which will have different dissolving effects on the soot and stuff left over on glass. I'm sure that the abrasive action is important however if it was only that I'd think simple silica when wet would be as effective as anything at all? Again not as an argument, I'm just trying to gather some good thoughts on this. Thanks.
 
I think it is both the abrasive factor and the alkalinity of the lye.

I haven't tried it but I heard that orange hand cleaner with pumice works well too.
 
Yep, ash for the stove glass works great. I wonder if it good for anything else? I know it's good for corn. Corn kernals have to be boiled in wood ash and water to release the vitamins. It is the chemical lime in the ash that makes the corn digestible. The Native Americans knew this, but when Europeans started relying on corn they got pellagra, a nutrition deficiency disease.
 
Since Year 2 when I started burning truly seasoned wood . . . and learning how to properly run my woodstove I have to say it's a rare event when I get the black gunk on my glass (usually when I do it's when a split or round rolls up against the glass blocking the air flow) . . . usually all I need to clean the glass from the fly ash is a few quick swipes of damp newspaper . . . I don't even bother with the ash any more.
 
calcium carbonate is poorly soluble in water - it is likely acting as a fine polish / abrasive. You would need to add a hydroxide to the carbonate to make lye.
There may even be enough in the black soot that combined with the water and newspaper it tends to clean itself the water providing the paper enough flexibility to maximize contact with the ceramic surface and as an aid to hold the "dirt" into the pores of the paper .
There can also be a small per centage of clay and calcium in the newsprint.
 
Sorry I'm so late to return to this but thanks for the comments. I too think it is the combination of slightly abrasive substances as well as the alkalinity of the ash that probably works so well. Turns out that many of the oven cleaners commercially available are highly alkaline as well. If there is any cleaning action due to the rules of solubility it would work by dissolving the sodium and potassium compounds within the soot and that would likely leave lots of other compounds clinging to the glass. Still that solubility might accelerate the action but I still think the slightly abrasive quality as well as the alkalinity of ash is what is working the most. Thanks again for all the comments I always learn a lot here!
 
turbocruiser said:
Fine folks, I'd like to share something and ask for thoughts.

After reading thread after thread about using ash to clean the glass I decided to try this method.

Previously I was using two products that Rutland makes. One was a spray called "Fireplace Glass Cleaner" and the other was a paste called "White Off". Both of these worked well enough but they both cost something whereas the ash costs nothing.

The first time I tried ash to clean the glass I was amazed at how well it worked even when I was purposely damping down the air control completely and getting some good soot and stuff baked on all over the glass.

If I had to give I guess I'd guess that the ash actually worked better than the two products purchased previously and I started trying to think through that and figure out why it worked so well.

The more that I think about it I think the effectiveness is possibly/probably due to one of the general rules regarding solubility which is "like dissolves like". In other words the compounds that collectively make up the soot and stuff on the glass are the same that make up the ash and thus when those compounds are dissolved into the water that is on the paper or paper towel they also aid in dissolving the dirt on the glass. Since the ash is much more soluble initially in water than the soot and stuff, by starting with the ash the ash then accelerates the dissolving of the soot and stuff.

Anyways, its just one theory on this but I would like to ask the experts what they think; I'm completely convinced that the ash works much more than water would alone and much more than something that simply is abrasive (like silica or sand) and there has to be a basic reason why it works so well compared even to products specially purposed for cleaning the soot and stuff off of glass. I maybe taking my assorted chemistry classes too far with this one theory but that's for you folks to tell me so I'm asking the question with the hope to learn the answer. Thanks As Always!


You know what, I bet if you make a cute little packaging container and put wood ashes in it and label it as a glass cleaner...you will make millions....just like the pet rock or SuperCedars.
 
What about the "minerals" that didn't come from the tree? Can the crud found on the outside of the wood (dirt, sand, rocks, hydraulic fluid (anyone paying attention??)) potentially cause scratching of the stove window?
 
laynes69 said:
Years ago and still today, some make lye from wood ash and water. I've always came to the conclusion that when the ash is moistened, it forms a weak solution of lye. It seems to break down whatever is on the glass quickly.
you are exactly right! The more you leach the water through the ash, the stronger the lye becomes. I'm going to try making soap next year to see if I can do it 100% purchase free. I will make my own lye, use rendered fat from the deer we harvest, the only thing I have to figure out yet is the fragrance. I doubt the wife wants to smell like deer tallow......lol.....
 
Turbocruiser, I agree with you, there is something else at work beside pure abrasiveness. I was amazed how well ashes cleaned the glass as compared to something that is made for cleaning, say, ceramic stovetops. I recall many years ago watching an old timer using cooking oil to loosen the cooked-on grease of grills in much the same fashion.
I have been tempted to try wood ashes on my glass cook top, but I haven't got the nerve yet. :blank:
Also, making your own lye water is a b**ch, trust me.
 
Regarding the "like disolves like" rule, I don't know if that would apply here. The "gunk" on the glass is from improper combustion. This leaves residues which I would assume are of a differenct chemical composition than the ash. The fine ash is a by-product of complete (nearly) combustion.
 
I would have to agree with the slightly caustic mildly abrasive theory. Lye was made years ago by passing water through ashes...used in soap making if I remember right.
 
billb3 said:
calcium carbonate is poorly soluble in water - it is likely acting as a fine polish / abrasive. You would need to add a hydroxide to the carbonate to make lye.
There may even be enough in the black soot that combined with the water and newspaper it tends to clean itself the water providing the paper enough flexibility to maximize contact with the ceramic surface and as an aid to hold the "dirt" into the pores of the paper .
There can also be a small per centage of clay and calcium in the newsprint.

Add water to ash and you will have a base. Believe me on this.

Calcium carbonate reacts with acids, forms bicarbonates.

Above some temp you will decompose that to calcium oxide. Now we have real basicity.

Potash is also leached from ashes.

I could go on.

If you doubt that ash produces a base in water, mix them together with your hands. (as someone that has to use ash mixed in water a fair bit... I suggest not actually doing this too much) :)
 
Lye from wood ash

If that black shmutz on the glass is creosote, which has oily properties, then you'd expect it to at least dissolve in a caustic solution, though maybe not give saponification.

(finally- a valuable use for my chemistry degrees)
 
Adios Pantalones said:
Lye from wood ash

If that black shmutz on the glass is creosote, which has oily properties, then you'd expect it to at least dissolve in a caustic solution, though maybe not give saponification.

(finally- a valuable use for my chemistry degrees)
Great link, AP......and to think you had to spend how many years getting that degree to FINALLY use it here!! :cheese:
 
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