Ongoing Basment Install with Pics plz comment good or bad.

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ProjectX

Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 5, 2009
89
CT
Hello all,


Been a lurker/student for quite some time. This forum has been a great resource and I believe the information here has saved many lives. I started my install just about a year ago more as a "take my time and do it right" project and spreading the cost out. I will say I am very confident with my install but would also like to get the input of the masses before inspection.

I'm not to quick with the keys so please be patient i will try to be as detailed as I can. Lots of pics incoming now.

Pic#1 Duraplus 3wall between gutter and window from basement and up.

Pic#2 Thimble size with center hole.

Pic#3 Drilling and chipping from the inside .


More to come

Thanks
 

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Hey looks like a fun project I'm looking forward to seeing how it progressed.

.....and I'm looking forward to seeing those wood framing members being removed from around the thimble hole:)
 
Pic#4 Thimble in from the out side with extension due to thick block wall ( don't think i needed this but why not)

Pic#5 View from outside.

Pic#6 Thimble in

Pic#7 Close up of Thimble
 

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The framing is like 14 1/4 " just don't look like it the the picture i did finish the frame for the thimble cover to screw to.
 
Wow this is turning in to a photo Journal.

Pic#8 DVL needs to be 8" from ceiling and 6" from the wall.

Pic#9 Start of the wall shields with cement Durok

Pic#10 Need to be spaced out 1" from the wall i used 1/2 copper pipe with a washer

Pic#11 Lets go a little higher with the Shield.
 

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Man nice neat work.

Pics can be deceptive. The framing looks close, and the thimble looks close to the corner and wall to the right from those pics - but if you're taking the time to do the work that neat and clean I'm guessing you did your homework re: clearances


edit - you snuck that last post in before I clicked submit - I figured you knew your clearances. Good stuff keep the pics coming
 
the 1" copper pipe spacers for a air gap, what is fastening the board thru them into the wall? is it a screw or nail? is it special aterial? ive read online that nails or screws can transmit the heat and cause a stud to catch on fire they are drivin into. i dont know if its true.. i was always wondering how they fasten the non combustable board to the wall with airspace.

Ray
 
The old stove in the basement install. Been their done that and hate it......It is a pane to fire up(first push all that cold air out the flue pipe.)
Then when the stove is cold all that cold air wants to come down into the stove and into the room. It is without a doubt the worst place to run a pipe, their is no way to insulate it good enough it is outside.........

But you got to do what you got to do.
Like I said I had one in my last house + a second stove upstairs.
 
awoodman

I have read many pros and cons about the basement install but for me its ideal (not trying to heat a 2000sqf house from the basement).
The basement will become our Family Room and be even more pleasurable with a cozy fire what ever heat should rise is an added plus. I am not installing to see major cost savings because I do have NG for heat (not so much in the basement 1 vent and thermostat upstairs)and my furnace is fairly new. My wood supply is small but free (maybe some labor). I have been purchasing stove,pipe....off season and doing the work when i have time. The stove nc13 was 50% off i used a 10%off coupon now i will get 30% tax credit the down side was i needed allot of pipe to go out and up and just bought the last 2 sections at tractor supply $99 each I should be firing up this weekend.. A pellet stove was an option but with the cost of pellets and the stove it was just not worth it. Pellets are made from a "waste product" But are they???? What is the carbon footprint to manufacture, transport,package in plastic all those pellets that are still subject to supply and demand cost issues.

Graythorn 3

4" decking screws were used and L brackets at the bottom to keep the correct height. I did try to keep the screws away from the back of the stove I am also 8.5" away from the Wall shield not the wall 1 inch more than needed for a corner install (i will add pics).

I will be adding more photos please keep the questions and comments incoming.
 
Not many comments i must be doing something right or absurdly wrong lol.

Pic#12 Cut the carpet and set the tile.

Pic#13 Test spot the stucco mix that i tinted a terracotta color with cement coloring.

Pic#14 Cover wall shield and add texture.

Pic #15 Set the stove in place. The color on the wall shield cured much lighter


More to come !!!
 

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Here is the picture of the L brackets to keep the durock up off the floor you can also see the sheet metal covers i put over the outlets.
 

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Ok update

DVL is connected i did put a inline damper in for more control and due to the high chimney. The overall connection of DVL seemed a bit cheap. I didn't like the way this system connects to the thimble it just kinda clicks in and out so i put some furnace cement to hold thing solid. The adjustable piece that overlaps seems a bit sloppy as seen in the picture is this normal for Simpson DVL?

Pic#17 Thimble connection with ceiling clearance and cemented connection.

Pic#18 Thinble connection with wall clearance .

Pic#19 This is the adjustable 12" piece i think is sloppy. What do you think?

Pic#20/21 Inside and all together. YES I NEED TO TOUCH UP THE CEILING PAINT LOL

The NC13 is 8.5" corner to shield on one side and 9.5" clearance on the other. (from the shield not the wall +1.5 to wall)

Next is the out side Class A.


Please look over this install tell me what you think.

There is one thing i need to Fix (just found it today) Can you find it?????
 

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ProjectX said:
Ok update

DVL is connected i did put a inline damper in for more control and due to the high chimney. The overall connection of DVL seemed a bit cheap. I didn't like the way this system connects to the thimble it just kinda clicks in and out so i put some furnace cement to hold thing solid. The adjustable piece that overlaps seems a bit sloppy as seen in the picture is this normal for Simpson DVL?

Pic#17 Thimble connection with ceiling clearance and cemented connection.

Pic#18 Thinble connection with wall clearance .

Pic#19 This is the adjustable 12" piece i think is sloppy. What do you think?

Pic#20/21 Inside and all together. YES I NEED TO TOUCH UP THE CEILING PAINT LOL

The NC13 is 8.5" corner to shield on one side and 9.5" clearance on the other. (from the shield not the wall +1.5 to wall)

Next is the out side Class A.


Please look over this install tell me what you think.

There is one thing i need to Fix (just found it today) Can you find it?????


are all them bends gonna effect the draft much? i always thought u should go straight up
 
I was thinking about that so i used the 45's also with Class A going up 24' I'm thinking draft should be good (once you get it going).
The last parts will be going up today i will post Pics.
 

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Hey Guy/Gals

Some input would be great about my outer shell adjustable sections of DVL looking loose.

The whole set-up feels tight and don't move. I didn't want to use silicone to seal it up to make cleaning easier.

Please tell me what you think.


Thanks all
 
Due to weather and timing i have not been able to finish. Here is the room the stove is in with stairs going up..
 

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ARRRRGH this is exactly what I want to do. LET ME KNOW WHEN IT'S DONE.
 
I'll keep updating it.

When i started i couldn't find many Pics here so i thought i would post as many as i could.

I'm hoping (fingers crossed) to have a break in fire this weekend.
 
Whats with the wire coming through the corner of the ceiling?
 
Bar room with a woodstove in the basement would be nice...I'd bring the bar room back
 
Yea i do miss it.

I'm trying to convince the Mrs. a small (2-3 stool)bar under the new stairs would increase the value of the house. The problem is my "Honey Do List" is like 3 pages lol she now calls it the " Honey Don't Do List".
 
We are up and running!!!!!!!


The 13nc seems like a great little stove so far with plenty of heat for my setup. I get the room from 62f to about 78f in about 2hrs at 35f outside temp burning mostly pine scraps,pellet pcs (myself)...etc at this time saving good stuff for colder days.

Things I noticed :

1) Smokey start ups suck!!!

2) Room get hot fast this time of year.

3) Burns hurt.

4) Start up smell not as bad as expected.

5) Quickly becoming the popular room in the house(10yo dragged his Red Sox chair down the stairs to sit and play his PSP game)

6) Beer tastes better with warm toes.



Will post pic asap.

John
 
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