Oslo baffle issue......

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nelraq said:
Shari,

To answer your question re. the colour of the insulation blanket. They are white when new. The tan colour comes from a thin layer of ash which is deposited on the cover while the stove is burning. If your blanket is still white, you must be burning very clean indeed!!!

I don't think there's much point in trying to clean the blanket. Definitely don't try to vacuum it - you'll probably suck the whole blanket into the vacuum!!! (lol)

Ha! I already have vacuumed it as fly ash accumulates on it. I use just the hose on my vacuum, laying on its side(!!!) only - NOT placed nozzle down on the blanket. By laying the hose nozzle on its side you decrease the amount of suction drastically but because fly ash is so light it still gets sucked up. Use a very, very light hand when doing this as you don't want to damage the blanket.
 
Well I just came back from the dealer and they ordered me one (free of cource) But he really didn't remember ever seeing a blanket on any of the stoves. They were sold out of F-500 so couldn't look at one. So do they just lay on the baffle, or do they attatch somehow??
 
cptoneleg said:
Well I just came back from the dealer and they ordered me one (free of cource) But he really didn't remember ever seeing a blanket on any of the stoves. They were sold out of F-500 so couldn't look at one. So do they just lay on the baffle, or do they attatch somehow??

It is above the baffle board, against the rear edge of the stove and centered in the space.
Since it was missing on delivery, we assume that the dealer will install it?

Caution: It is quite fragile and tears easily.
 
Valhalla said:
cptoneleg said:
Well I just came back from the dealer and they ordered me one (free of cource) But he really didn't remember ever seeing a blanket on any of the stoves. They were sold out of F-500 so couldn't look at one. So do they just lay on the baffle, or do they attatch somehow??

It is above the baffle board, against the rear edge of the stove and centered in the space.
Since it was missing on delivery, we assume that the dealer will install it?

Caution: It is quite fragile and tears easily.

+1 . . . just lays on top of the baffle board . . . not attached in any way. I kinda wonder about this dealer if he doesn't remember seeing a blanket on any of the Oslos he sells since every Oslo I've ever seen has the blanket . . . it is not an optional accessory.

Pretty simple to install . . . just be careful as Valhalla mentions . . . it can tear easily.
 
Thanks Jake, I will lay it on there when it comes in, The salesman even made a note on the order asking if for some reason this item was not on the stoves in his area.
 
It doesn't matter if the baffle is cracked. The baffle only serves the purpose of providing an area for the insulation blanket to lay on.

The most important part of the system there is that insulation blanket, it serves to keep heat down and in the firebox to stimulate secondary burn.

Originally the baffle was cast iron, two pieces, with a seam down the middle upon which the insulation blanket would lay.

Also, having the baffle cemented at the rear is not necessary, I know, because I have replaced mine and did not cement it in. The thing just lays there with the insulation blanket on top.
 
ansehnlich1 said:
It doesn't matter if the baffle is cracked. The baffle only serves the purpose of providing an area for the insulation blanket to lay on.

The most important part of the system there is that insulation blanket, it serves to keep heat down and in the firebox to stimulate secondary burn.

Originally the baffle was cast iron, two pieces, with a seam down the middle upon which the insulation blanket would lay.

Also, having the baffle cemented at the rear is not necessary, I know, because I have replaced mine and did not cement it in. The thing just lays there with the insulation blanket on top.
My baffle was not cemented in, I have just started noticing that on the newer ones, I suspect it is for shipping.
 
Well I will be glad when it comes in so I can see if I get a little better performance out of the stove. I have been struggling I bring the stovetop temp. up to 450 to 550 and start shutting the air back and temps take a dive. Havent really timed this as I was figuring it was probably my marginal wood. But thanks to this Post , I probably would have never known that I was missing something so thanks all when the Blacket comes in I will let everyone know the results.

Thanks Again All
 
cptoneleg said:
Well I will be glad when it comes in so I can see if I get a little better performance out of the stove. I have been struggling I bring the stovetop temp. up to 450 to 550 and start shutting the air back and temps take a dive. Havent really timed this as I was figuring it was probably my marginal wood. But thanks to this Post , I probably would have never known that I was missing something so thanks all when the Blacket comes in I will let everyone know the results.

Thanks Again All

Yeah, if you don't have that insulation blanket my bet is you'll see a definite improvement in performance. The reason Jotul went from the cast iron to the vermiculite baffle was that the cast iron would warp under extreme temps.....they got tired of shipping out cast iron baffle plates, hence the vermiculite board. It is the insulation blanket that is the important part of the equation here.
 
cptoneleg said:
Well I will be glad when it comes in so I can see if I get a little better performance out of the stove. I have been struggling I bring the stovetop temp. up to 450 to 550 and start shutting the air back and temps take a dive. Havent really timed this as I was figuring it was probably my marginal wood. But thanks to this Post , I probably would have never known that I was missing something so thanks all when the Blacket comes in I will let everyone know the results.

Thanks Again All

I suspect you will see a whole other side to your stove once you have the insulation blanket . . . very odd how it never came with the stove.
 
Thanks Shari my second degree burns are much better now that I have installed the blanket.
Also thanks to Jake, Vahalla, Anah, and others who helped me.
 
cptoneleg said:
Thanks Shari my second degree burns are much better now that I have installed the blanket.
Also thanks to Jake, Vahalla, Anah, and others who helped me.

And seeing a thread like this with a happy ending is why I stick around . . . well that and I'm still learning myself.
 
cptoneleg said:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php?ACT=24&fid=2&aid=46961_3EJR9W2koRih8tunJ8lp&board_id=1

It is real easy to clean here. My baffle is loose, or broken, at the stove, there is no gap so I left mine.

L O L

Glad to hear you have a good ending!

I have a question: On the pictures of your oval top - I see in the first picture your gasket is laying loose in the grove on the top of the stove. In the second picture it appears you have adhered the gasket to the oval plate. Is there any specific reason you did this?

My gasket just lays there and my oval plate just lays on top of it with the interior screws holding the oval plate in place.
 
Shari said:
cptoneleg said:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php?ACT=24&fid=2&aid=46961_3EJR9W2koRih8tunJ8lp&board_id=1

It is real easy to clean here. My baffle is loose, or broken, at the stove, there is no gap so I left mine.

L O L

Glad to hear you have a good ending!

I have a question: On the pictures of your oval top - I see in the first picture your gasket is laying loose in the grove on the top of the stove. In the second picture it appears you have adhered the gasket to the oval plate. Is there any specific reason you did this?

My gasket just lays there and my oval plate just lays on top of it with the interior screws hold the oval plate in place.

Its not now it just lays there after installing my blanket, but I still do not tighten the lid down it is loose and does not leak at all.
 
Shari said:
My gasket just lays there and my oval plate just lays on top of it with the interior screws holding the oval plate in place.

That explains why I had such a hard time getting my gasket to stick to the bottom of the cookplate when I was installing it. :red:

Oh, and not tightening the interior screws on the cookplate/top might be a good idea because I boogered up my insulation blanket trying to get my big ol hands up in there to tighten the screws.
 
Coach B said:
Shari said:
My gasket just lays there and my oval plate just lays on top of it with the interior screws holding the oval plate in place.

That explains why I had such a hard time getting my gasket to stick to the bottom of the cookplate when I was installing it. :red:

Oh, and not tightening the interior screws on the cookplate/top might be a good idea because I boogered up my insulation blanket trying to get my big ol hands up in there to tighten the screws.

A tip if you remove the top oval plate: The first time removing it leave the bolt loose on the back fitting - i.e. keep the bolt in place but loose. Then, when you go to re-install the oval plate just align the slot on the oval plate to the rear bolt and drop the oval plate in place. The last step to re-install the oval plate is replace front bolts and finger tighten those two.

Bottom line: There are 3 bolts holding the top oval in place. On my stove, I only have the front two finger tightened and the rear bolt is loose but in place. Doing it this way you don't have to get fingers (fat or thin) over top that insulation blanket to remove the oval plate. Just reach up, remove the two front bolts, push up gently from the inside on the oval plate and with your other hand remove the oval plate from the top.

Clear as mud, right? :)
 
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