Oslo "Leaking" (Cracked?)

[clr8ter]

Yeah, I know a lot of floors aren't level or even, but, the stove did NOT rock when it was installed, and NOW it does......so something happened on my 3rd burn to cause this......and yeah, I shimmed it. It took about .150"

 

[formula_pilot]

If you have a bad rocking Jotul, FYI, they do sell OEM leg leveler kits for about $25 at the dealer. I just ordered one for my new Firelite, as my hearth is made of fieldstone and very uneven. My old Defiant rocked too, and I just found just the right size small stone to fit under the leg to keep it steady. One thing I found about using a washer, stone, or other shim, is that with repeated heat / cool cycles, the washer / stone / shim would work its way out from under the leg and the stove would start to rock again, so every few weeks I had to push it back into place. Not really high maintenance, a few second to fix it every few weeks.

Your stove is probably fine. Cast iron is very rigid, so it does not conform to small variations in the floor level like furniture will.

 

[clr8ter]

I don't think anyone's really reading my posts. I KNOW floors aren't level. I KNOW it needs to be shimmed. I KNOW cast iron won't conform to floor variations. What I don't know is WHY WAS IT NOT ROCKING AFTER INSTALL, AND NOW AFTER 3 FIRES IT IS, AND IS IT A BIG DEAL

Changing my screen name to frustrated......

Thank you Firefighterjake for coming the closest to answering the question, with "Nope"

 

[firefighterjake]

I don't think anyone's really reading my posts. I KNOW floors aren't level. I KNOW it needs to be shimmed. I KNOW cast iron won't conform to floor variations. What I don't know is WHY WAS IT NOT ROCKING AFTER INSTALL, AND NOW AFTER 3 FIRES IT IS, AND IS IT A BIG DEAL

Changing my screen name to frustrated......

Thank you Firefighterjake for coming the closest to answering the question, with "Nope"

I actually did read your post . . . and as stated . . . mine had a bit of a rock in it before I started burning and fixed it with either a washer or penny . . . I forget which . . . didn't notice any rocking afterwards.

I'm thinking that there are a couple of possibilities . . . but they're just guesses on my part.

1) The stove wasn't completely level before you started burning and you didn't notice it for whatever reason . . . although you sound like the type of person who looks over a stove really, really well before lighting that first fire and would notice it being uneven.

2) The heat or weight from the stove may have caused part of the hearth to shift some or it may have shifted slightly on to another tile/stone . . . hard to tell I suppose unless you marked the exact placement of the stove and hard to say unless you checked the exact placement of the stone/tile for the hearth.

I doubt the heat from the stove caused the metal components to shift or move . . . but I suppose it could be possible . . . it would be the first I've heard of it here in the forums.

In either case "Frustrated/Clr8ter" . . . I wouldn't worry too much about it . . . but would shim it up and continue to burn.

 

[begreen]

Put a long straight edge on the floor. It's unlikely the stove changed. Guessing here, maybe wood shrinkage? Poorly supported floor?

 

[logger]

I KNOW floors aren't level. I KNOW it needs to be shimmed. I KNOW cast iron won't conform to floor variations. What I don't know is WHY WAS IT NOT ROCKING AFTER INSTALL, AND NOW AFTER 3 FIRES IT IS, AND IS IT A BIG DEAL

Sounds like the hearth or floor shifted from the heat.. in either case, you dont have to yell in all caps and explanation marks.

 

[clr8ter]

Ya, I do have to yell, it got the desired results finally, huh?

Thank you again firefighterjake. I am that type that checks things like that. I checked that specifically. The stove moving sounds like the best explanation. It is on a completely masonry hearth, and there are no cracks in it, so I doubt it moved. But, yes it's shimmed and being burned........moving on.

 

[SKIN052]

Problem #1: Wet Fire Bricks. I had the same issue with the Summit I had installed last year. I notice the bricks were damp when the were installed. After a couple fire and a few wet spots on the floor, ot all went away.

Problem #2: Why did it not rock when you installed it and now it does? Several reason already mentioned, slight warping, hearth settling, etc. Stick a penny in there a be done with it.

Problem #3: You have a crap attitude and demand instant answers. This forums seems to be made of a helpful people that share their educated opinions. I graciously take all their opinions in stride and then make my own and act accordingly. Maybe you should try the same, just saying.

 

[Dexter]

It is the nature of cast iron to not like to bend. There is a coefficient of expansion as it heats and cools. But, as one side of the stove gets hot, it will push on the front, or back, as the case may be, and if the sides were connected rigidly together, the expansion of one piece tries to "bend" the other pieces. This is why iron stoves are "slotted" together -- and not very tightly; the air seal is made with the refractory/furnace cement. This means that iron stoves are relatively "loose". That is, some pieces (or plates) of the stove will move more than others, particularly over the first few burns. This is normal, I assure you. This is normal.

If you look at the internal bolt connections in your stove, you will notice that they are positioned to limit movement on one axis, but not on the other two dimensisions, because forcing cast iron to bend (through expansion) is something like trying to bend a fresh graham cracker or potato chip! The way your stove (or any good cast iron stove) is built, will actually allow the stove to "rack" or "parallelogram" as is settles in to shape. This will also loosen enough sealing cement that you will likely find several inches of seam cement in your emptied ashes in the first couple of months. Don't worry about it. It's just the excess gobs of the stuff. The cement in the cracks is still sealing the gap.

The other gentlemen on the site are right. a washer or a nickle will do the trick. (My Firelight was cured with a washer about 10 years ago. It also condensed creosote where cold intake air met hot smoke, and it came dribbling out of the intake manifold at the back -- and it stunk. I shortened the horizontal run of the stove pipe by about 7 inches, but I now expect that the problem would have stopped on its own.

I found myself fretting gravely over the "faults" of my stove, when new. Now, I have learned it, and I love it, and have saved uncounted thousands of dollars on heating bills over the past 11 seasons. Experiment. Become one with your stove. Figure out the most efficient burn for your setup, and groove with the penetrating warmth it will give you.

Best Regards, and happy burning...

Dexter

 

[firefighterjake]

It is the nature of cast iron to not like to bend. There is a coefficient of expansion as it heats and cools. But, as one side of the stove gets hot, it will push on the front, or back, as the case may be, and if the sides were connected rigidly together, the expansion of one piece tries to "bend" the other pieces. This is why iron stoves are "slotted" together -- and not very tightly; the air seal is made with the refractory/furnace cement. This means that iron stoves are relatively "loose". That is, some pieces (or plates) of the stove will move more than others, particularly over the first few burns. This is normal, I assure you. This is normal.

If you look at the internal bolt connections in your stove, you will notice that they are positioned to limit movement on one axis, but not on the other two dimensisions, because forcing cast iron to bend (through expansion) is something like trying to bend a fresh graham cracker or potato chip! The way your stove (or any good cast iron stove) is built, will actually allow the stove to "rack" or "parallelogram" as is settles in to shape. This will also loosen enough sealing cement that you will likely find several inches of seam cement in your emptied ashes in the first couple of months. Don't worry about it. It's just the excess gobs of the stuff. The cement in the cracks is still sealing the gap.

The other gentlemen on the site are right. a washer or a nickle will do the trick. (My Firelight was cured with a washer about 10 years ago. It also condensed creosote where cold intake air met hot smoke, and it came dribbling out of the intake manifold at the back -- and it stunk. I shortened the horizontal run of the stove pipe by about 7 inches, but I now expect that the problem would have stopped on its own.

I found myself fretting gravely over the "faults" of my stove, when new. Now, I have learned it, and I love it, and have saved uncounted thousands of dollars on heating bills over the past 11 seasons. Experiment. Become one with your stove. Figure out the most efficient burn for your setup, and groove with the penetrating warmth it will give you.

Best Regards, and happy burning...

Dexter

I think I like Dexter's answer/guess better than my own guesses . . .

 

[clr8ter]

Yes, he sounds very informed, doesn't he? Thanks FFJ & Dexter. The only question remaining for Dexter is you realize this stove is not new, right? (About 3-4 yrs old) I carted it home several hundred miles, it sat in my mudroom for months, and just recently got it installed......So you think it's just adjusting to it's new home, after all of that?

 

[Dexter]

Yeah, I would guess that moving a cast iron stove gets it wrenched around a bit during the move. Once its in place, I wouldn't be surprised to see it "settle" over a few burns. I am amazed when I take the top of my stove off for cleaning -- some of the bolts will work themselves out until they're only finger tight. They really seem to "flex" with each heating cycle.

I really hope your stove works out for you. We sure love ours.

Dexter

 

[RSNovi]

I just noticed a black splotch on my hearth near the back of the stove. It wiped right off the tile, but it sounds like the same stuff the original author inquired about.