Separate names with a comma.
Posted By huffdawg,
Jul 13, 2016 at 8:04 PM
Froling install as it happens
Nice upgrade, congrats to you. Did the EKO 40 fail and how long did you run it?
The EKO never failed but had lots of issues I got sick of dealing with.
- Doors seals were a pita.. always replacing and repairing.
- Doors were orientated opposite to what worked best for my boiler room configuration.
- fan very seldom shut off after burning a load.
-Controller went kaput
-Fan capacitor went kaput.
-refractory bricks prone to cracking into pieces.
- not conducive to loading while burning.
-bypass damper always made me nervous .. especially when wife or kids were operating.. (forgetting to shut)
Also the froling will have more output .. will give me a little more punch in the coldest spells and efficiency should be better .
Looking forward to the rest of this story!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You know you want one!
Sorry for the delay.. after all the smoke damage I decided to clean up and repaint, also tidy up some wiring.
. Lifting the boiler up to get the pallet out , next trick getting it into the boiler room.
Removed the old 4 way esbe valve and install an opped circ. pump . Will also be repiping the supply to the shop floor heating . Its the second pipe from the top of the buffer tank on the left. I will plumb it to the next valve down on the left which was the return and adding another penetration below that for the new return. Hopefully I will get a little better stratification.
Nice choice of boiler.
I think it is not recommended to have your pump electrical switch panel below the pump, like you have in the rear pump.
Those arnt switches they are outlets . They are not hot anymore .. They were for the previous boiler. The froling is 240. I'll prolly convert that heater to the 240 power source.
I might be wrong but I think lotawood was talking about the electrical box on the pump housing itself. I think the electrical orientation always lands the box either on the top or side of the pump motor.
Thinking you may be right.
I just fitted those pumps together to fit the copper pipe, its not permanent the one on the right I stole from shop floor loop. But thanx for the heads up.
I didn't even notice the outlets.
I remembered from the instructions that came with the Grundfos pumps recommended not orienting the electrical connection panel, where the three speed switch is located, underneath the pump. It just looks like the rearward pump has that panel below the pipeline. I assumed that was to prevent water from dripping down into the electrical connections, if it ever leaks.
The front (left) pump looks like the switch/electrical is above the pipeline.
moving the froling into the boiler room. I have a 2 tonne floor jack lifting from the front.
can any froling owners tell me if these turbs are orientated properly in the actuator mechanism properly?
The instructions are a little vague.
installing exterior cladding
Running cables through trays and terminating connections
I imagine you had to take the cladding off to get it through the door or something, but it's also nice that it didn't get dinged up while moving.
None of the cladding was on . Pretty much the whole thing had to be assembled.. But it would not have fit through the door with the cladding on.. Definitely a lot of attention to detail went into it all, from the cable trays, strain reliefs, pin connectors, to door design and latching method .
Done the near boiler plumbing in Copper.. (very time consuming) pretty much ready for the inaugural fire.
How much will the Froling control things vs, the Vesta? The Froling has some capabilities in this area, no?
The froling will modulate the boiler pump. It will tell you what size a fire to light according to the temps in the buffer tank. That feature prolly not used in my case as I have a 1000 gals of storage as well as 150 gal buffer.. the Vesta will control pretty much everything else