P68 igniting issues

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Pjw350

New Member
Nov 27, 2016
5
Felch mi
I have a 5 year old Harman P68 and use it for our vacation home as a secondary heat when we are there And burn maybe 25- 35 bags per season on it. 2 seasons ago we had the ignitor go out and replaced it with one from earth sense energy on ebay. The replacement lasted a season and then had issues again. I ordered another eses one and also a mr pellethead 310 watt ignitor on ebay. It is taking 2 cycles to light on its own. I need to reset the power to get it to light on its own.

The p68 runs fine if i self light it. I have cleaned it very good at the end of each season with using the manual to clean it. After having issues i bought a leafblower vacuum to try to clean it better and tried a new esp probe, i tightened the door and the seal is pretty good with the dollar bill test. The intake and exhaust are clean and the intake damper seems to work. I have also adjusted the low draft voltage adjustment both ways with no luck

I am looking at the pressure sensor, the control board and even replacing the door gasket.

Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Thanks
 
I don't have an answer to your question as long as you are sure that the igniter area is cleaned and the inlet air flow is not impeded. I do find it odd that you have gone thru a couple of igniters already - and don't use the stove much. My Harman's start themselves several times a day (primary heat so go thru u to 7 tons/year) and this will be the 4th season for the P61a - never had to replace the igniter.

It almost sounds like something is shorting it out (check the wires to the igniter) or you may be getting power surges that are taking it out. You might also check to make sure the outlet it is attached to isn't reversed polarity (I have no clue what that means, just something I've read about here on the forum a couple of times as being a culprit for issues - but usually that leads to board problems so probably isn't it).

Do you have the stove on a UPS or surge protector?

Welcome to the forum and I hope your issue is resolved soon!
 
I don't have an answer to your question as long as you are sure that the igniter area is cleaned and the inlet air flow is not impeded. I do find it odd that you have gone thru a couple of igniters already - and don't use the stove much. My Harman's start themselves several times a day (primary heat so go thru u to 7 tons/year) and this will be the 4th season for the P61a - never had to replace the igniter.

It almost sounds like something is shorting it out (check the wires to the igniter) or you may be getting power surges that are taking it out. You might also check to make sure the outlet it is attached to isn't reversed polarity (I have no clue what that means, just something I've read about here on the forum a couple of times as being a culprit for issues - but usually that leads to board problems so probably isn't it).

Do you have the stove on a UPS or surge protector?

Welcome to the forum and I hope your issue is resolved soon!
I have had it on the surge protector but that may make sense if the outlet had issues it could have burned out the ignitor and possibly messed up the control board? I even tried to take the inlet and just suck the room to see if it would help but it didnt. I do not have a UPS on the stove. I am 6 hours from the stove and i just want to order whatever parts i can to fix any issue the next time i go there. It is also possible that none of the ignitors have been bad and another issue has been slowly creeping up causing it to hickup. I also tried a few different brands of pellets to try to rule out that as an issue.
 
You might want to check you house voltage. It's possible it is to low. I had a fridge burn out years ago and I decided to check the line voltage. It was 156 volts. I called the power company and they promptly changed out the transformer on the pole outside. Problem fixed. I could never get them to admit that's what killed my fridge. Low line voltage could cause the problems you're experiencing.
Ron
 
You might want to check you house voltage. It's possible it is to low. I had a fridge burn out years ago and I decided to check the line voltage. It was 156 volts. I called the power company and they promptly changed out the transformer on the pole outside. Problem fixed. I could never get them to admit that's what killed my fridge. Low line voltage could cause the problems you're experiencing.
Ron

So if this is the case the circuit board could be bad
 
Pjw350 no it doesn't. If the power voltage is down it will cause the igniter to to heat up as much and the combustion blower to run a little slower. Both of these could cause a no start issue. If the stove is allowed to run in this condition for a period of time it could also cause the fuse to blow or the board to cease to work but it's unusual for the board to start the heating cycle and the igniter to heat up and be bad.
jzm2cc has some good advice as well.
Ron
 
Make sure every hole in the burnpot is cleared, ash is removed from within burnpot, and igniter carrier is not reversed.
Every hole has been cleaned- my dad did one ignitor change and i just called him and asked if he took the cradle apart beyond the flat piece and he wasnt sure. I messed with the bracket on saturday and couldnt figure out any other way it could go in- unless he took the curved piece off. I'll order another cradle to bring along and make sure it wasnt put in backwards.
First thing-what code is flashing when it fails to light?
i was getting the 5 blink code- sometimes i could get it to light partially where i couldnt get a strong enough fire and would get a 6 blink also. In manual mode and self lighting the stove ran fine. In auto mode if the ignitor ran 2 cycles it would light if you reset it inbetween cycles. Thanks for all the suggestions
 

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Codes 5&6 do not need unplugged to reset,just turn stove mode off then back on.Having a new cradle in hand will not tell you which way it goes into stove.
 

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Thanks bob! i believe the fins were pointed out so I'm guessing the bracket got taken apart and installed incorrectly. Hopefully the issue is that easy to fix. Will post an update when i can make it to the UP and take it apart. Thanks for the suggestions
Yep might be the problem.If interested,the ignitor place on ebay has the aftermarket 310 watt ignitors on sale for 28 bucks,delivered,might get a spare.
 
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I'd say the igniter being set wrong is a good start. Kind of like blow drying hair with the tip of the dryer pointed away from said hair. Let us know what you find out.
 
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