P68 install questions

[Nealm66]

So I ran into too many obstacles to install a wood stove so I purchased a P68 and in order to avoid another 6 week install delay I’m going to install myself. Dealership is crazy busy. I’m going to do a through the wall corner install and I have a foundation wall that is about 6” above the 10” exhaust. Would it be ok to put a 45 and then 90 through to the outside T then up 5’ ? Or would that be too much for draft issues. Thanks in advance

 

[Ssyko]

I would keep as much of my pipe inside, if it is OK with the warden . get all the convection out of the pellets as posable.
cleanout T to a 45 then up to a 90 and straight out the wall

 

[Mt Bob]

Don' quite know why you need the 45,and at what angle it would be at,but what you listed is well below the max EVL,and should be fine.If you had any doubts,or are at high elevation,go with 4" pipe.I always recommend going up before out,so that stove can be replaced with a different model/brand,in the future, without cutting another hole in the wall.Now also is the time to install outside air feed.

 

[Nealm66]

Sorry, the 45 is to raise above the footing and get my pipe away from a window. I have 10’ ceilings so I have lots I’ve room, why would I want the clean out T inside? Wouldn’t that be a bit messy? I will do so if that’s the best. Very much thanks for the help

 

[Mt Bob]

Still don't understand the 45 without a drawing,lol.Ssyko is right,the more pipe inside the house,more heat gained,less cleaning.The nice thing about most Harmans,if you can get the cleaning rods past the bends,even from the outside,clear down to where the pipe hooks to the stove,it is a straight shot to the pipe,from inside the stove,once the inside plate is removed for cleaning. To me,a T clean out behind the stove,down at floor level,would be very aggravating.But,some stoves have to be that way.

 

[Nealm66]

Sorry again, I’m at work and not the best at multi tasking. There’s a window and I’m thinking a 45 would send the pipe up and towards the corner to get away from the window. Manual says needs 4’ space away from a window that opens. I think I understand now why the inside clean out. Basically shove the cleaning rod from the outside towards the stove/clean out T. Makes sense. Would have never thought about that. My inside T would be the 90 before going outside

 

[Mt Bob]

Ah,I think I got it,you were going to put the stove in cater-cornered,45,then90,then straight section out through wall.I still would recc. up and out.However,if you did it that way(your way), you could have the clean out out side,just fine.You could have the clean out outside fine,even if you have some rise inside the house. Also,i see people still get confused about the clearances,on the charts/pictures,and do not think to check Inspectipedia,or local inspector.First,the opening statement above all those clearances-"Requirements for Terminating the Venting ". Notice the "terminating" not "where pipe goes through the wall".Also,consider this---"with outside air installed, 12” to side and below". DO a bit more thinking before cutting holes,you might be happier in the long run.

 

[Nealm66]

Much appreciated

 

[bogieb]

Ah,I think I got it,you were going to put the stove in cater-cornered,45,then90,then straight section out through wall.I still would recc. up and out.However,if you did it that way(your way), you could have the clean out out side,just fine.You could have the clean out outside fine,even if you have some rise inside the house. Also,i see people still get confused about the clearances,on the charts/pictures,and do not think to check Inspectipedia,or local inspector.First,the opening statement above all those clearances-"Requirements for Terminating the Venting ". Notice the "terminating" not "where pipe goes through the wall".Also,consider this---"with outside air installed, 12” to side and below". DO a bit more thinking before cutting holes,you might be happier in the long run.

Didn't see anywhere that the OP said an OAK would be installed, so, to the OP - Pay attention to that part, otherwise, the 4' you stated (at termination) would be correct.

 

[Nealm66]

Yes, I will install the oak. Just going to poke it out above the foundation wall. It will be plenty far away from the exhaust. Do you guys think it will be necessary to measure the draft? If so, is there any manometers you would recommend?

 

[SciGuy]

Yes, I will install the oak. Just going to poke it out above the foundation wall. It will be plenty far away from the exhaust. Do you guys think it will be necessary to measure the draft? If so, is there any manometers you would recommend?

I like the Dwyer 2001 Magnehelic 0-1.0"w.c. gauge. You can sometimes pick them up cheap on Ebay. The new price is on the order of $55 so not too much in the grand scheme of things. That said there have been thousands of Harmans installed without a gauge being involved.

YMMV,

Hugh

 

[Washed-Up]

I haven’t done anything, draft wise, on my P61a, as Hugh stated above, many don’t need it.

 

[Highbeam]

The p68 is a whole lot of stove for a smaller modern home in western Washington. Why did you choose the biggest one they make?

 

[Nealm66]

The stove clearances in the manual I found online are a bit lacking for my simple mind. 13 “ from the corner of the stove looks like without the side plates, all the stuff behind must not get hot?

 

[SciGuy]

The stove clearances in the manual I found online are a bit lacking for my simple mind. 13 “ from the corner of the stove looks like without the side plates, all the stuff behind must not get hot?

You're correct the back part of the stove does not get too hot. The firebox on the other hand can get pretty warm.

Hugh

 

[Nealm66]

The p68 is a whole lot of stove for a smaller modern home in western Washington. Why did you choose the biggest one they make?

I chose it because of the high regard from this site, size wise, it appears efficient at a lower setting but able in a power outage to heat my whole house. Was this a good call?

 

[Tonyray]

don't know if this helps but inside/outside pictures..
also OAK intake is at bottom of outside thimble..[square plate]...harman P61A..Cleanout cap at bottom..
note: when power goes out which it has, that long travel gives any smoke a route out and not into the house.
couple times a year i pull the cleanout cap, shove a 3" bristle brush horizonally thru the exhaust into the stove..
it pushes all the ash back to the stoves exhaust tunnel and then gets vacuumed from inside in seconds. lot easier..
the long vertical pipe i use a 4" round brush all the way to the top up and down and it's good to go.
I burn very good softies so the ash in the pipes is a minimal light brown powder...only time i had any actual crud was after burning a ton of BBS crappy hardwoods back in the trial and error days.

 

[SciGuy]

I chose it because of the high regard from this site, size wise, it appears efficient at a lower setting but able in a power outage to heat my whole house. Was this a good call?

Do you have a backup generator? The unit does require electricity to function.

 

[Nealm66]

don't know if this helps but inside/outside pictures..
also OAK vent is at bottom of thimble..[square plate]...harman P61A..Cleanout cap at bottom..
note: when power goes out which it has, that long travel gives any smoke a route out and not into the house.
couple times a year i pull the cleanout cap, shove a 3" bristle brush horizonally thru the exhaust into the stove..
it pushes all the ash back to the stoves exhaust tunnel and then gets vacuumed in seconds. lot easier..
the long vertical pipe i use a 4" round brush all the way to the top up and down and it's good to go.
I burn very good softies so the ash in the pipes is a minimal light brown powder...

View attachment 267759 View attachment 267760

That helps, thank you

 

[Nealm66]

Do you have a backup generator? The unit does require electricity to function.

Not yet, will have, just a basic 5000ish backfeeding from an rv 50

 

[Highbeam]

I chose it because of the high regard from this site, size wise, it appears efficient at a lower setting but able in a power outage to heat my whole house. Was this a good call?

Figure, a woodstove like the princess over a 24 hour period burns under 40# of wood to keep a house like yours warm in our moderate climate.

How many folks are burning just one bag a day in a P68? That could be running the thing on idle all the time. The p43 might have been enough, the 61 an extra. I suspect a p68 will be burning very low most of the time to keep your house warm.

A pellet stove is more like a mini furnace that makes constant output.

 

[Mt Bob]

You will not need to adjust the draft. Yes the sides get very hot,on this stove,but the back does not.The sides get so hot there are optional side shields you can buy.Too big? I do not see a problem.You can run it off a thermostat,and let it start and stop.Igniters last a long time,and are pretty easy to replace,anyway.As far as running off a generator,you should use only a pure sine wave generator,for continuous duty.People have run them before,on cheaper gens, but it is hard on the 3 electric motors,overheats them,they will not last as long.However,you do not need a big gen.

 

[Nealm66]

Good to know, I’ll pick up a conditioner unless there’s a better option. Thank you

 

[Mt Bob]

Oh,most pellet stoves,it is highly recommended to use a surge protector at your house outlet.Harman's seem to be particularly sensitive to voltage fluctuations.A lot of us use this type,with good success.--

Isobar Surge Protector, 2 Outlet, 1410 Joules, Diagnostic LED | Eaton

Premium 2-outlet surge protector provides protection for sensitive electronics and computer peripherals against power surges, spikes and line noise.

www.tripplite.com

 

[Nealm66]

Oh,most pellet stoves,it is highly recommended to use a surge protector at your house outlet.Harman's seem to be particularly sensitive to voltage fluctuations.A lot of us use this type,with good success.--

Isobar Surge Protector, 2 Outlet, 1410 Joules, Diagnostic LED | Eaton

Premium 2-outlet surge protector provides protection for sensitive electronics and computer peripherals against power surges, spikes and line noise.

www.tripplite.com

Thanks again, looks like a reasonable price!