Pacific energy damper mod??

[fordtrucknut]

I tried searching but came up empty.
I though I remember reading on here (and pictures) about modding the damper to close more,

mine leaves open about a 1/2" of space and it won't let the fire slow down as much as I want it. I've tried the dollar bill trick and it is tight all the way around the door.

Thanks ahead of time for the help.

On the upside this stove starts with a handful of twigs and 3-4 twisted newspaper halves. And holds 10" rounds

 

[Sodbuster]

I siliconed a piece if 1/8" bar stock to align with my damper giving me full control.

 

[10-cc]

You can also grind off the stoper so the damper will go all the way to a complete close position.

 

[begreen]

You can also grind off the stoper so the damper will go all the way to a complete close position.

No need to do that. It's mild steel and bends easily with a pair of vice grips. Just don't close it off completely. Smoldering fires are not good.

 

[Sodbuster]

BG, it must still be pulling air from somewhere, with my plate attached with silicone, the damper shuts 100%. I'm still getting beautiful secondaries in this position, no smolder. If I hadn't installed this piece my stove would burn too hard, and waste wood.

 

[begreen]

BG, it must still be pulling air from somewhere, with my plate attached with silicone, the damper shuts 100%. I'm still getting beautiful secondaries in this position, no smolder. If I hadn't installed this piece my stove would burn too hard, and waste wood.

Secondary air feed has a completely separate intake. Complete closure of the primary air can definitely cause the fire to smolder depending on the fire stage when it is closed, the draft strength, wood size and moisture.

Although some may find it necessary to make adjustments on a factory setting, this should only be done on an as needed basis. There are too many people coming from the smoke dragon world that want their stoves to run just like their old smoker did. My concern is that they alter their stove based on partial internet knowledge without knowing how a modern stove runs and how to run it properly.

 

[Squisher]

Yup. And in Canada any altercation of a certified component nullifies its certification. So be really careful how you modify things on a stove.

I have about 21' of chimney. Interior masonry, with a stainless liner on my summit. Two 90's to get in and up the masonry and I've never seen a need to modify my intake. I get easy overnight burns and if I setup for it can get incredible burn times. So seldomly have I ever wished to be able to choke my stove down anymore that I prefer to leave my stove as it is. If I had a straighter or taller chimney maybe I'd feel differently.

I also monitor stovetop and stovepipe with a remote digital display to upstairs for my stovepipe temps. So I am very familiar with my temps and burn cycle. It has to be really cold out and I have to really be asleep at the helm to have a runaway at all. Also as a sweep and lifelong burner I'm pretty intimate with soot, so when I clean my stove and chimney I get a real clear picture of how things have been going.

 

[Woody5506]

I wouldn't want to mod my damper on my T5. Seems like it rolls along perfectly when it's shut. Could this be due to having close to the minimum chimney length for this stove as well as a 45 degree bend? Or in other words, probably not 100% optimal draft.

 

[Squisher]

Could be I think. Same as what I attribute my lack of needing to choke back more to. The t5 is the super firebox I think? My super insert gets incredible burn times unmoded but it's a older insert pre ebt and all that. I wonder if unmodded it restricts more air?

I've cleaned some pretty tall and straight chimneys though on summits and other pe products and people run them without complaint. One I can think of in particular is 30' of class A on top of 5.5' of double wall connecting pipe and they aren't modded for certain.

 

[begreen]

I wouldn't want to mod my damper on my T5. Seems like it rolls along perfectly when it's shut. Could this be due to having close to the minimum chimney length for this stove as well as a 45 degree bend? Or in other words, probably not 100% optimal draft.

The PE design makes for an easy breathing stove. I have seen their stove installed with sub-optimal chimneys and they work ok. A friend has a Summit on a flue system that constantly spilled smoke with his previous stove. The Summit works well for them without this issue.

 

[Sodbuster]

Yup. And in Canada any altercation of a certified component nullifies its certification. So be really careful how you modify things on a stove.

I have about 21' of chimney. Interior masonry, with a stainless liner on my summit. Two 90's to get in and up the masonry and I've never seen a need to modify my intake. I get easy overnight burns and if I setup for it can get incredible burn times. So seldomly have I ever wished to be able to choke my stove down anymore that I prefer to leave my stove as it is. If I had a straighter or taller chimney maybe I'd feel differently.

I also monitor stovetop and stovepipe with a remote digital display to upstairs for my stovepipe temps. So I am very familiar with my temps and burn cycle. It has to be really cold out and I have to really be asleep at the helm to have a runaway at all. Also as a sweep and lifelong burner I'm pretty intimate with soot, so when I clean my stove and chimney I get a real clear picture of how things have been going.

Which is why I made mine temporary, simply siliconed in place, pair of pliers, and it's gone. How does secondary air get drawn in vs primary air on the PE Summit series?

 

[begreen]

Which is why I made mine temporary, simply siliconed in place, pair of pliers, and it's gone. How does secondary air get drawn in vs primary air on the PE Summit series?

Depends, Summit A, B or C.

 

[Sodbuster]

Summit B

 

[begreen]

Summit B

In the Summit A the secondary intake is open, at the bottom of the secondary feed tube in the back of the firebox. In the Summit B that hole is where the EBT is located. The EBT acts as an effective barometric damper on the secondary intake.

 

[spolleypt]

I tried searching but came up empty.
I though I remember reading on here (and pictures) about modding the damper to close more,

mine leaves open about a 1/2" of space and it won't let the fire slow down as much as I want it. I've tried the dollar bill trick and it is tight all the way around the door.

Thanks ahead of time for the help.

On the upside this stove starts with a handful of twigs and 3-4 twisted newspaper halves. And holds 10" rounds

Easy peasy. Take a magnet and stick it over the rest of the hole. The damper will shut to the Magnet. Works great because you can move it slightly to play with the amount of closure you want.