Pacific Energy T6 break-in fire - not needed?

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jwscarab

Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 5, 2007
113
SE Indiana
I read my manual front to back - it says nothing about break in fires. It just says to have ventilation for the first few fires to keep the stink down!!!

So - does anybody know whay PE does not require a break in fire???

Why exactly do other stoves require it, but not PE T6???

Thanks!!
 
jwscarab said:
I read my manual front to back - it says nothing about break in fires. It just says to have ventilation for the first few fires to keep the stink down!!!

So - does anybody know whay PE does not require a break in fire???

Why exactly do other stoves require it, but not PE T6???

Thanks!!

Just a suggestion, but if it were me, I would do 2 or 3 break in fires. 1st to 200 degrees or so (kindlin), 2nd to 400ish couple medium splits, third to 600ish (3 large splits) to cure the paint well.
You may notice a faint smell of the paint curing at any time the temp gets higher than the last time.
 
We did the break in fires in our T5. First with small stuff, second with small stuff and 2 pieces of scrap, third with all the previous and a couple splits and finally just burned a bit longer(couple more splits not much more heat)! Had stink on each of these as we hit new temps and then again once when cruising along on the first night of a 24/7 burn. Smell wasnt room clearing like I thought it was going to be. Maybe because we slowly stepped up the heat, it didnt all cookoff in a single burn and that made it bearable. Doing the breakins also let us learn this stove and how controllable it is.
 
I have to admit I am usually on the safe side. I agree safer is better!

But I have to ask - just for my own curiosity - why are the break in fires needed??? I would think PE would recommend them if they thought it were needed - especially if they warranty the stoves?
 
I could have sworn my stove manual mentioned break-in fires, but I just looked at the manual on PE's website and could not find anything about that. I think there was a tag attached to my stove door about break-in fires, but it may have been only about curing the paint. I have thrown that away though. I knew I should have kept it.

I did do the 3 break-fires, maybe I just assumed it was required after reading so much on this forum. As said, better safe than sorry.
 
I prefer to do at least a couple break in fires in a new stove, even if it's not solid castiron. It helps drive moisture out of the firebricks.
 
I burned mine about 5 times out in the yard last summer before I installed it. I was sure glad I did. It smoked like a freight train burning off the paint.
 
It's best to get to know your stove before you push it. Acouple of breakin fires will give you some idea of what you can expect for small shoulder fire heat. If you notice it taking off to fast and the air control has little effect then you should check the door gasket to see if the door needs adjusting. I did a couple of breakin fires but did not really get rid of the smell until I drove it to 8oo+.
 
We did break in fires on the Super 27 in the last house and the T6 we installed in this house. For all the reasons stated above and the break in fires establish a minimal ash bed. Curing the stove was recommended by the dealer to cure the paint and put it through expansion and contraction cycles a couple of times.
 
jwscarab said:
I read my manual front to back - it says nothing about break in fires. It just says to have ventilation for the first few fires to keep the stink down!!!

So - does anybody know whay PE does not require a break in fire???

Why exactly do other stoves require it, but not PE T6???

Thanks!!

I think a better question is why other stoves require it.
 
I didn't think steel needed it. It's pretty ductile. The welds could stand to be annealed though.

Cast Iron on the other hand is not ductile at all. It also has alot of stress in it when it's cast. The best way to stress relieve it would be to slowly heat it up very hot and then let is slowly cool off. That's a bit hard to do with wood.

What's always confused me about this stove break in stuff, is that to anneal, normalize, or stress relieve a metal, you normally have to take it to it's transition temperature (glowing red), hold it there, then slowly let it cool off. We don't get the stoves that hot.
 
Hi Tom! Yes my dealer did send me detailed instructions ;)

I feel bad - and dumb. It was just an excited moment where after a hard day of installing, I lit er off and read the book but didnt think to re-read my dealers email first. I should have! Sorry!!

It seems to be running perfectly - handles nicely. It does not run away on temps.

So do you think any harm done? Warranty issues in the future?

Thanks!!
 
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