Pacific insert install, so close, please help

[tkuhe]

please help me figure out how to make the final connection to my stove with my flex pipe. As you can see from the pic I am so frackin close but I just can't seem to get things to happen. I just can't get the flex to bend enough to fit inside the stove!

I am so tired and I have little cuts all over me. I guess this is payback for the liner going in so easily.

Please give me an idea on what to do.

 

[KevinM]

I know how you feel, I am stuck in the same situation.

Can you tell where the liner is getting blocked. A small mirror and flashlight may help.

These are some things to try (in order of desperation):

1) pre-bend the end of flex liner without the insert in the fireplace

2) attach the liner with the insert deeper in the fireplace and they pull forward

3) use a 15 or 30 or 45 degree elbow between the insert and the stove adapter on the flex liner

4) use an offset adapter between the insert and stove adapter on the flex liner

5) remove the damper frame and minimal amount of brick

I am waiting for a 45 degree elbow made by the liner manufacturer to arrive on special order.

Kevin.

 

[bfgibson]

It sounds like you are in the same situation that I was in when I installed mine a few weeks back. I wound up using an adjustable elbow. I needed about a 15 degree angle and couldn't find anything like that so I used an adjustable. I was in a hurry and used a 'black pipe' adjustable elbow, but you can order the stainless version. My understanding is that the black pipe elbows can't be used in a space that you can't see because they will eventually erode and you might now see it. I think it will hold out a few months, though. Hopefully that will solve your problem. I plan to replace mine with the stainless version at the end of the season.

Brian

 

[tkuhe]

I know how you feel, I am stuck in the same situation.

Can you tell where the liner is getting blocked. A small mirror and flashlight may help.

These are some things to try (in order of desperation):

1) pre-bend the end of flex liner without the insert in the fireplace

2) attach the liner with the insert deeper in the fireplace and they pull forward

3) use a 15 or 30 or 45 degree elbow between the insert and the stove adapter on the flex liner

4) use an offset adapter between the insert and stove adapter on the flex liner

5) remove the damper frame and minimal amount of brick

I am waiting for a 45 degree elbow made by the liner manufacturer to arrive on special order.

Kevin.

Hi Kevin.
Liner isn't blocked, I just can't get it to bend enough.

1. That is what I tried to do and obviously it didn't work
2. Insert is all the way in.
3. Do you know if I can buy a 45 degree adjustable elbow that would go directly into the insert?
4. I'll look into that.
5. Cringing at the thought.

I am going to pour myself a stiff cocktail and reflect for a few.

-Tucker

 

[tkuhe]

I wound up using an adjustable elbow.

Thanks Brian. I wasn't sure if there was such a thing. I am going to call the two local shops tomorrow and see if they have one. Such a bum way to end a long day of doing this but oh well.

Thanks,
-Tucker

 

[bbeals]

please help me figure out how to make the final connection to my stove with my flex pipe. As you can see from the pic I am so frackin close but I just can't seem to get things to happen. I just can't get the flex to bend enough to fit inside the stove!

I am so tired and I have little cuts all over me. I guess this is payback for the liner going in so easily.

Please give me an idea on what to do.

OK, the picture looks to me to mimic what you were saying. Are you trying to put the pipe "inside" the stove flange or "over / outside" the stove flange? By the looks of your picture it almost seems as if you have the stove adapter on backwards. Pardon me if me if I am looking at this wrong. All pipes should go inside each other as they exit the house. Nothing should be reversed from this, as you can get leakage, meaning that whatever you connect to the stove flange should go on the outside of the flange, and the pipe that attaches to the adapter should go on the outside of the adapter. Is this making sense?

 

[bbeals]

After I looked at your photo in a larger format, I can see that you have the stove adapter on backwards. The part you are trying to put into the stove needs to go into the SS liner and the other end that is over the liner, should then slide easily over the flange on your stove. Good luck.

 

[tkuhe]

After I looked at your photo in a larger format, I can see that you have the stove adapter on backwards. The part you are trying to put into the stove needs to go into the SS liner and the other end that is over the liner, should then slide easily over the flange on your stove. Good luck.

Um............That might explain why it is nearly impossible to put that into the stove.
Feeling stupid.

 

[Rudyjr]

I believe the fitting is on the pipe correctly. The fitting goes over the ss liner and into the collar of the stove.You should be able to make the connection with a 30 degree elbow.

 

[bbeals]

After I looked at your photo in a larger format, I can see that you have the stove adapter on backwards. The part you are trying to put into the stove needs to go into the SS liner and the other end that is over the liner, should then slide easily over the flange on your stove. Good luck.

Um............That might explain why it is nearly impossible to put that into the stove.
Feeling stupid.

No need to feel stupid. Turn that flange around and I bet it will turn your frown upside down. :red:

Also will be safe to operate. If you were to force the flange inside the stove, you would have exhaust gases that could leak into your home causing harm too terrible to speak of.

 

[bbeals]

I believe the fitting is on the pipe correctly. The fitting goes over the ss liner and into the collar of the stove.You should be able to make the connection with a 30 degree elbow.

I would need to see the manufacturers installation guide to believe that. You should never have a fitting like the one in the picture going into the stove. They do have a similar fitting with a collar around it to prevent exhaust gases from leaking into the home, but the one pictured is not like that. I believe that fitting is on backwards and poses a danger if any stove is operated with the pipe going into the flange versus over.

 

[bfgibson]

I also believe your adaptor is installed correctly in the first picture. let me see if i can dig up some instructions, but when i installed my stove the flex pipe connects to your 'appliance connector' using that tie down strap. your appliance adaptor then fits down into the stove.

Brian

 

[tkuhe]

So I am thoroughly confused. I understand what you are saying BI Guy and I am reading the instructions again but it really isn't all that clear to me. I guess I just assumed it would go that way.
From the directions:
"Attach the bottom termination connector. Tighten the hose clamp on the connector to the liner. Do not over tighten."
That sounds to me like i have it right?????

 

[bbeals]

I also believe your adaptor is installed correctly in the first picture. let me see if i can dig up some instructions, but when i installed my stove the flex pipe connects to your 'appliance connector' using that tie down strap. your appliance adaptor then fits down into the stove.

Brian

You should consult your manual or local pro. Mine does not connect that way, however; that does not mean that manufacturers can't differ in how they do things. First and foremost, make sure it is right and safe. Good luck.

 

[bfgibson]

So I am thoroughly confused. I understand what you are saying BI Guy and I am reading the instructions again but it really isn't all that clear to me. I guess I just assumed it would go that way.
From the directions:
"Attach the bottom termination connector. Tighten the hose clamp on the connector to the liner. Do not over tighten."
That sounds to me like i have it right?????

It sounds like you have it exactly correct. it says to tighten that strap to the liner, not the stove. I just installed a stove using a flex liner a few weeks back. You situation looks identical to mine. the angle just isnt quite right. you might be able to use a 30 degree elbow like was already mentioned, or an adjustable one if the angle is less than 30.

Brian

BI Guy is correct in that some manufactures do it differently. if you are using forever flex or duravent, then i can tell you have it on there correctly.

 

[Hogwildz]

Bro, your getting bad advice. The adapter is correct, it goes outside the liner & inside the stove outlet. This is true of any stove pipe, liner etc. That way if creosote builds up inside and runs down, it runs into the stove and not out the joints of the fittings and all over the top of the stove. Have you tried a 2"x4" in behind the liner as leverage and try to pry it out a lil to meet the stove outlet. If it won't go, you can get an offset box, or better yet a s.s. adjustable elbow. If you reverse that adapter it will be wrong.
If the adapter flange on the stove side is not quite small enough to fit inside, go to home depot and buy yourself a pair of hand crimpers in the ductwork isle. crimp the end which will make it smaller to fit into the stove outlet.

 

[Rudyjr]

Every type of stove fitting I have ever seen goes inside of the collar of the stove the holes in the collar are to screw the fitting to the collar. The bands on the other end are to attach it to the flexible liner.

 

[tkuhe]

Bro, your getting bad advice. The adapter is correct, it goes outside the liner & inside the stove outlet. This is true of any stove pipe, liner etc. That way if creosote builds up inside and runs down, it runs into the stove and not out the joints of the fittings and all over the top of the stove. Have you tried a 2"x4" in behind the liner as leverage and try to pry it out a lil to meet the stove outlet. If it won't go, you can get an offset box, or better yet a s.s. adjustable elbow. If you reverse that adapter it will be wrong.
If the adapter flange on the stove side is not quite small enough to fit inside, go to home depot and buy yourself a pair of hand crimpers in the ductwork isle. crimp the end which will make it smaller to fit into the stove outlet.

OK....Cool.
Yeah I tried prying it with a log, not a 2x4 but same thing, I just couldn't get it to work.
Can an adjustable elbow go straight from the liner to the stove? Or does it go, liner-elbow-adaptor?

 

[bfgibson]

liner, adaptor, whatever elbow you need, stove

the liner can't hook directly up to an elbow. you need that adaptor to go from flexible to rigid

i hope you can get it hooked up soon. i know the feeling when you are so close. it happened to me. i called the adjustable elbow the magic elbow because it solved the problem. i was so close, but couldn't quite get enough out by using a 2x4. we must have very similar dampers/fireboxes.

Brian

 

[Hogwildz]

Never used an elbow, so can't say. BB has done this I think, someone who has done it should weigh in.
I am thinking the clamping system the adapter has would hold the liner better then run adapter into the elbow.
If you can get the liner into the elbow, the only thing holding it in place is the screws you use to screw toe liner & elbow together. Instead of a steady, equally pressured clamp around the liner, you will be relying on a few screws which will be taking stress at each screw, rather than spreading it out like the clamps does. Hopefully Bart will chime his old arse in here.

 

[Rudyjr]

I would check the information that is published by the liner manufacturer, and if in doubt give them a call . They should be very willing to tell you what you need. It sure looks like a 30 degree el will get you there.

 

[Jimbob]

Actually, just use a 90 degree adjustable elbow. You can "Rubik's cube" it around to make an offset, kinda like an "S".
They sell stainless adjustable elbows that fit just like single wall black pipe. Slide the existing adapter (still attached to the flex) into the FEMALE end of the elbow, then push the male end into the flue collar.
Theoretically, you should be able to pour a glass of water down the chimney and have it all go into the stove, in other words all crimped male ends should point DOWN.
Hope this helps. If I had an adjustable 90 on hand, I would post a pic of it in the "offset position".

 

[oconnor]

Adapter is on correctly, and is fitting into the stove in the pic. I have the same set up on my liner. The fat end actually fits inside and outside of the flex liner, and should have little drain holes on the inside for creosote to run thru if it should be there in liquid form - pretty hard to get that piece on upside down.

Looks to me like a 15 degree elbow is what's needed, unless you can ovalise the liner to get a straighter shot at the stove.

 

[oconnor]

...meaning that whatever you connect to the stove flange should go on the outside of the flange, and the pipe that attaches to the adapter should go on the outside of the adapter. Is this making sense?

Sounds to me like this description is exactly backwards - pipe is supposed to be installed so that any liquids run down the liner/piping with no chance of leakage. Double wall and single wall will "look" different, but have the same overlap inside. The pipe needs to go inside the flange, so that liquid flaming creosote doesn't exit the flue.

 

[fossil]

The only time anything slips down over the outside of the flue collar is in the case of a double-wall stove adapter, and even then, the inner flue pipe slips into the flue collar. All slip-fit components from the stove to daylight are properly assembled with their male ends facing downward toward the stove, into the next component below. This may seem counter-intuitive, if you think, "Well, gee, I want the smoke to go up into the next pipe and not leak out around the edges of the joint"...but that ain't what's happenin' in a chimney. A properly drawing chimney will not leak smoke out a non-airtight joint, it'll draw air in. More importantly, when there is creosote formation in the system, it can build to a point of running down the inside surface of the pipe. If the pipe is correctly oriented, this creosote will remain contained inside the pipe and meander down toward the stove. If the pipe is not correctly oriented, the creosote will leak out of the joints and run down the outside of the pipe. Rick