Padding glass clips for doors?

[Bluerubi]

In preparation for potentially keeping the Firelight 12, I'm trying to think of ways to guarantee that I won't screw up again and overtighten the glass clips that hold in my two panes of glass worth over $100 each. After discussing the issue with Jotul technicians, apparently the glass gasket listed on their parts breakdown in thinner than they actually recommend at 1/8" rather than 3/16", so I'll be swapping that out hoping it will add more padding and flexibility when the stove starts to expand. I've also ordered brand new clips for both doors just in case the existing ones aren't delivering consistent pressure on the glass surface, but I was thinking about taking it a step further and was looking for advice. When reviewing the design last night the thought occurred to me to cut a small piece of gasket and place it between the clip and the glass to cushion the plate, and remove the non forgiving glass/metal interface. When thinking back to manufacturing equipment I've worked with over the years I can't remember ever seeing glass bolted directly to steel without some sort of forgiving material in between, so I'm wondering if the concept in similar here.

Anyone ever do this or see an issue with giving it a try?

Thanks.

 

[DAKSY]

In preparation for potentially keeping the Firelight 12, I'm trying to think of ways to guarantee that I won't screw up again and overtighten the glass clips that hold in my two panes of glass worth over $100 each. After discussing the issue with Jotul technicians, apparently the glass gasket listed on their parts breakdown in thinner than they actually recommend at 1/8" rather than 3/16", so I'll be swapping that out hoping it will add more padding and flexibility when the stove starts to expand. I've also ordered brand new clips for both doors just in case the existing ones aren't delivering consistent pressure on the glass surface, but I was thinking about taking it a step further and was looking for advice. When reviewing the design last night the thought occurred to me to cut a small piece of gasket and place it between the clip and the glass to cushion the plate, and remove the non forgiving glass/metal interface. When thinking back to manufacturing equipment I've worked with over the years I can't remember ever seeing glass bolted directly to steel without some sort of forgiving material in between, so I'm wondering if the concept in similar here.

Anyone ever do this or see an issue with giving it a try?

Thanks.

I don't see a downside to this technique. I think I'd use the "tape" style gasket. Bottom line is to not over tighten the retainer clip screws. Turn the screw until it stops & no more. Not sure what type of glass clips that "12" uses, but many of them are spring steel & almost act like a Belleville washer...

 

[Bluerubi]

I don't see a downside to this technique. I think I'd use the "tape" style gasket. Bottom line is to not over tighten the retainer clip screws. Turn the screw until it stops & no more. Not sure what type of glass clips that "12" uses, but many of them are spring steel & almost act like a Belleville washer...

I had suggested the same thing about the tape to Jotul and they said that the 3/16" self adhering rope is what they want me to use. I'm going to try really hard not to overtighten this time, but it feels like a really delicate balance between too loose to stay in, and too tight. I don't have a pronounced lip that would keep the glass from sliding, so I'm worried that if it's too loose it might slip down on its own when things move around under heat.

The clips appear to be the spring steel you mention, but they don't feel like they have much give to them at all. I'm wondering now if they have become rigid over time, and that is contributing to my troubles. New ones of those on the way as well, so I'll hopefully be set up as well as I can for success.

 

[DAKSY]

I had suggested the same thing about the tape to Jotul and they said that the 3/16" self adhering rope is what they want me to use. I'm going to try really hard not to overtighten this time, but it feels like a really delicate balance between too loose to stay in, and too tight. I don't have a pronounced lip that would keep the glass from sliding, so I'm worried that if it's too loose it might slip down on its own when things move around under heat.

The clips appear to be the spring steel you mention, but they don't feel like they have much give to them at all. I'm wondering now if they have become rigid over time, and that is contributing to my troubles. New ones of those on the way as well, so I'll hopefully be set up as well as I can for success.

One thing to remember when tightening the retainer screws is to "sneak up" on the final torque. Work your way around the pane & don't tighten any screws all the way. Count the turns if you have to. For example: once the first thread is fully engaged, turn that screw 5 times & repeat on each screw. Then tighten two turns - if you can. If not maybe, a turn and a half. You get the ptcture. Seat the pyroceram evenly. If you get too much pressure in one spot, that stuff is not very forgiving & it'll fracture if the pressure is uneven...It isn't very cheap - as you well know.

 

[Bluerubi]

Does anyone have a picture of what the glass clips look like, either in the stove or online? I have a feeling the previous owner might have made their own based upon the jotul clips I've seen for stoves other than mine, so it would be helpful to know what a known working stove has.

Thanks.