PDVC temperature variance

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Harvey Schneider

Minister of Fire
Oct 9, 2012
1,321
Southbury, CT
I fired up the 25PDVC, that I rebuilt this summer, for the first time last night. I was waiting for the building inspector to give his okay on the installation before firing it up. (That might seem excessively cautious, but it has to do with insurance liability. Homeowners insurance will not cover a loss due to an uninspected installation.)
A few things bothered me about its behavior and I am hoping that someone here with more experience could tell me if this is normal or if there is something wrong.
When I hit the "on" button, it takes about two minutes before I see burning fly ash. So far so good. It took another ten minutes before I saw an actual flame. Comparing the startup time to my Mt Vernon, a ten minute delay seems wrong.
By the time there is an actual flame, the fire pot is half full and proceeds to a very satisfying blaze. Being an engineer, I can't be satisfied with just the fact that it burns, so I got out my infrared thermometer and scaned the outside of the stove. I found that the front right corner of the stove is at 375 degrees F and the left front corner is at 265 degrees F. That seems like a big differential and I wonder if it indicates a blocked passage or an air leak.
When I was rebuilding this stove, I used a shop vac to forcefully evacuate all of the ash, rust and deposits that I could through the flue port. All of the accessible areas were brushed and the small holes at the burn pot were cleared. The impingement plate and the plate at the bottom of the burn pot were replaced. The surface of the igniter was lightly sandpapered to remove scale and it was re-installed back about 1/16" from the aperture to the burn pot. I thoroughly cleaned both blowers, tightened their bearing plates where the crimps had loosened, and installed new gaskets. I didn't touch the augers since they have new bearings and the motors appear to be running okay.
I checked the flue exterior temperature and it is at about 100-120 degrees F.
So, did I miss something or am I just being obsessive?

One additional issue. There is what appears to be a choke plate at the bottom of the hopper. The plate has a slot so that the opening to the top auger can be adjusted. How does one decide on the proper opening?
 
Sounds exactly like my PDVC, if you want a quicker startup throw a handfull of pellets in front of the igniter before you hit the on button, Your igniter could also be weak.

You'll find that the convection air is stronger and hotter on the left side of the discharge. As far as the choke plate, I know nothing of any setting.

Call Englander tech support, they are VERY eager to please the consumer and are well known on this forum for being so.

Welcome to the forum and I'm sure you'll enjoy the stove.
 
You can speed up that ignition by making certain that you have a lot of air flowing around the igniter.

Sometimes that means adjusting the igniter back further into the tube it sits in and not attempting to start the stove on the lower firing rates.

ETA: There is a section in the manuals on how to align the augers and such.
 
Speaking of the ignitor, did you check it for proper operation while you had it out for cleaning? I had an ignitor that only got red on half of it's length. It still lit the stove, but it took MUCH longer than normal (probably 7-8 minutes compared to under 3 minutes with the new ignitor). I also ended-up with the 1/2 full burnpot before finally getting flame....way too much.

IMO, pull the ignitor and hook up to direct 120v and see what you get.
 
Speaking of the ignitor, did you check it for proper operation while you had it out for cleaning?
I didn't check it while it was out, but the overall appearance of the igniter makes me think that I should replace it. I know from work experience that heaters lose Wattage with age/use. This one looks ancient so bets are that it doesn't run as hot as it used to.
As an experiment I just ordered an igniter made in China. It was $5 including postage. It is, as far as I can tell from the specifications, the same in every respect. Even the lead length matches. I just need to add the Faston connectors to it.
It might take a few weeks to get here but I can run on the one I have in the meantime. I will post my results when I get it installed.
 
I didn't check it while it was out, but the overall appearance of the igniter makes me think that I should replace it. I know from work experience that heaters lose Wattage with age/use. This one looks ancient so bets are that it doesn't run as hot as it used to.
As an experiment I just ordered an igniter made in China. It was $5 including postage. It is, as far as I can tell from the specifications, the same in every respect. Even the lead length matches. I just need to add the Faston connectors to it.
It might take a few weeks to get here but I can run on the one I have in the meantime. I will post my results when I get it installed.

Great price on the igniter! :cool: You may have to take the collar off the old one and put it on your new one.

Where did you order the igniter from?

Don't forget to add some type of motor oil on the motor shafts on the blowers. They last alot longer that way!
 
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