It's not my stove, it's my SIL's, but I procured it, installed it, got the wood for it, and I'm the only one who's burned in it so far, so I will do the report. My neighbor went with me to get the stove, about a 2-hr. drive. We got there, and I saw the stove had been left out in a short, light rain that I saw on the radar. A little rain got through the plastic wrap on the stove...not a big deal, but c'mon. Then my buddy saw a chip in the enamel on the bottom front of the ash lip and a cracked, pushed-in board on the front of the crate. Pretty obvious that someone was moving it with a forklift and bumped into something. The stove shop guy said "There might be touch-up paint in the stove, but I'll order you some just in case." At that point, I should have realized they weren't being up front with me, and pulled up the plastic all around and closely inspected it. If it was warehouse damage, the stove shop should have caught it when they received it from the shipper...I'm pretty sure they inspect everything they get. Yet it went unmentioned. I will bring that kind of stuff to the attention of someone I'm dealing with, but there are a lot of shady characters out there, as we all know. But wait, there's more. Here's the stuff I found when I got the stove out of the crate; Bent handle, possibly from the same front impact incident that chipped the ash lip, and what looks like a couple angle grinder marks on the bottom right side.That may have been caused when the office hottie came through the plant, and the guy turned to watch her walk away, forgetting that he was holding a live grinder. What would you do, where I stand now, given that I didn't do due diligence before taking the stove? I didn't want to return it, but I could have gotten a price reduction, maybe, if I'd been thinking instead of drooling. I think I was dealing with the head installer, but I have another guy's name that left me a message when they got the stove in...not sure if he's sales, owner, or what. The enamel chip on the front bottom of the ash lip is barely visible in the handle pic, but way more noticeable than the side nicks, which are barely through the enamel...pic didn't turn out for some reason...I'll add it later. It's about 1.5" long. Now, let's move in a more positive direction and focus on the wood-burning fun! First fire was just four medium-small splits, so I could see how the stove would react before committing to a fuller firebox. Other owners are right on in their assessments; This stove is an easy breather. I'm able to start loads on a cold 15' chimney when it's in the upper 50s out (second day fire,) and still get zero smoke roll-out when I open the door. The smoke plate at the top of the door opening really does the job. I just took 'er up to about 400 stove top temp the first day to begin the paint-cure process. Plenty of control over the air at 42 degrees outside. 0 degrees will be a different story of course, and I may install a second flue damper if we need more control on cold days. On to the next day and the second fire, with Red Elm and Red Mulberry dead-standers that I harvested within the last couple weeks behind her house. It was almost 60 out so with the weaker draft, I was able to cut the air and pretty much kill active flame on the load, even though a lot of wood was gassing. You'll notice here that I got good secondary action on the left side of the baffle, but very little on the right side. I don't think there's a ceramic blanket on top of the baffle, so there should be nothing out of place up there that would impede secondary air flow through that side of the baffle. Not sure what is going on there; Maybe the baffle gasket has a gap on the right side, so it's pulling oxygen-depleted air from the firebox up into the right side of the baffle, therefore no secondary action on the right side of the baffle? In these pics, you can see a slight gap between the rear bottom edge of the baffle and the rear rail, and I could see flame shooting out of there at one point. Looked like flame behind that gap between the baffle and rail at the back of the baffle, as well. I'll take the baffle out tomorrow and have a look. I may seal that gap with a flat gasket, or some interam gasket that would seal the gap. And I'll look at the baffle gasket. There's also some insulation that you can see at the front sides of the baffle, that extends down the sides and (I think) the back of the baffle. I tried to make sure that was seated well, but couldn't really get at it too well through the flue exit, before I attached the connector pipe. Maybe I can check it from inside the firebox? I controlled the stove top temp up and down between 500 and 600 on this burn and cured the paint in pretty well. I have the meter on top of the steel box, just forward of the flue exit, but can still see it with a small flashlight through the openings in the swing-away cast iron top. Nice. So far, so good, now let's see if I can get some of these anomalies ironed out. Right now, I gotta go into the woods and find more dry fuel to feed this baby...behind on dry wood for three SIL stoves. Some would say I should cut the grass but I don't have time for that kind of foolishness.