PE FP30 Ordered

[mcdougy]

Construction of the new house is well under way (even with a late start due to a very rainy spring).
Framed, shingled, windows and doors are in place. Having my other tradesman in currently to do the plumbing, electrical and hvac, to keep a scheduled insulation date of October 22. So....
I finally ORDERED my fp 30 arch and can hardly wait to have it installed on November 9th. It's kinda like buying your own present

 

[saydinli]

Awesome. Make sure you post pics of your install. Did you order the new surround option for it ?


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[mcdougy]

Yes sir. I will give it my best shot

 

[mcdougy]

Ok. Stove installed now, No framing yet or in the immediate future (due to needing to hang 250ish sheets of drywall)
I do have a plethora of questions related to operating this unit....
I will start with a few simple ones but albeit important ones.... This should encompass fp30 and summit owners and possibly any stove?
Over firing....I get the wording, but what is the definition (besides too $&!!$!$ hot)...there must be a temperature I can use? With my temp gun, I find the hottest spots are for the door, top centre. And on the firebox top centre. What temperature am I looking for? I plan on using the fan constantly, so what temperature should I have in those "hot" spots to operate at a reasonably full potential?

Too much draft....how does one know he may be suffering from this occasional problem? On low burn what should I be seeing?

Baffle......How much flame should be coming from the air holes in the baffle facing the glass in the door?
Should the holes in the baffle That point straight down be burning holes into the wood? While the rest is charring properly?

I will start with those.
Thanks folks for your knowledge.
MM

 

[saydinli]

With the fan off I try not to let it go higher than 700F with the IR gun on the firebox dead centre right above the door. I like to keep it around 600F . Flames coming out of the holes is a good thing. That’s your secondaries burning. Once they start to go you should have the air all the way down. I turn down in 2 or 3 increments. Burning holes in the wood is perfectly fine. Did they install an OAK?


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[bfast250]

Ok. Stove installed now, No framing yet or in the immediate future (due to needing to hang 250ish sheets of drywall)
I do have a plethora of questions related to operating this unit....
I will start with a few simple ones but albeit important ones.... This should encompass fp30 and summit owners and possibly any stove?
Over firing....I get the wording, but what is the definition (besides too $&!!$!$ hot)...there must be a temperature I can use? With my temp gun, I find the hottest spots are for the door, top centre. And on the firebox top centre. What temperature am I looking for? I plan on using the fan constantly, so what temperature should I have in those "hot" spots to operate at a reasonably full potential?

Too much draft....how does one know he may be suffering from this occasional problem? On low burn what should I be seeing?

Baffle......How much flame should be coming from the air holes in the baffle facing the glass in the door?
Should the holes in the baffle That point straight down be burning holes into the wood? While the rest is charring properly?

I will start with those.
Thanks folks for your knowledge.
MM

I will give you my thoughts/experience, but I have only been burning my FP30 for a few weeks so take it with a grain of salt.

I originally had my condar magnetic thermometer right above the door. First time I did a fullish load I was getting readings of 700+. After posting here I learned the fans may make that reading inaccurate. I now have my thermometer over the left corner of the door and the temps seem to reflect what I would expect (500-650).

I was also concerned with my burn rate at colder temps. Again at the advice of folks here I added two rows of foil tape over my outside air intake. I now have much more control to slow the burn. In my opinion that is what is most important. I posted a video of my burn for folks to comment on the rate/flame activity. Maybe try doing that here?

I get a really nice flow of fire out of my baffle when the temps are high enough. You won't get the secondary burn on a cold start right away. Yes, the secondaries will burn into the wood if you pack it full. That's fine/normal. I have noticed that sometimes I only get secondaries on one side or only in the middle. This changes over the life of the burn and on each load. My guess is it has to do with temps and off gassing not happening at the same time throughout the load?

I have had a lot of fun learning with this fireplace. Every time I light/load it I learn something new. I am extremely happy with how well it heats my home and I am excited to continue to learn how to get the most out of the FP-30.

 

[Mike M.]

Bfast - I am going on winter #3 with mine. If your getting good secondary flames that means you have good dry wood and you are burning the unit as intended. My 1st year with this I was too worried about overfire. I have learned to just watch the glass and flame pattern and make apropriate air adjustments. This is the 1st unit I have owned that likes to burn with air almost all the way off. PE gives you way more air adjustment than really needed. Enjoy your fireplace! Mine burns about every day October - March in Wisconsin.

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[mcdougy]

With the fan off I try not to let it go higher than 700F with the IR gun on the firebox dead centre right above the door. I like to keep it around 600F . Flames coming out of the holes is a good thing. That’s your secondaries burning. Once they start to go you should have the air all the way down. I turn down in 2 or 3 increments. Burning holes in the wood is perfectly fine. Did they install an OAK?


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Ok...we are talking 600F on the outside of the firebox 1/4" above the cast door correct?
Yes I have an oak. I would enjoying seeing a short vid of your fire at 600f with the air shut down to compare if you wish. As I know you had to adjust your oak.
I did a larger burn this a.m. And did get some new noises and smells from the stove.
Question....I read the vague dialog in the manual regarding the white chunks of insulation between the baffle and firebox. Is the insulation to be tight between the firebox and baffle or just pushed against the baffle? Mine is in place tight against the baffle and sticking up above, which leaves a gap to the firebox. If I turned the insulation the other way it would make this gap go away. I'm thinking its intended to make a tight fight not the way mine is in place, but would like to confirm.
Thanks for the help.

 

[mcdougy]

I will give you my thoughts/experience, but I have only been burning my FP30 for a few weeks so take it with a grain of salt.

I originally had my condar magnetic thermometer right above the door. First time I did a fullish load I was getting readings of 700+. After posting here I learned the fans may make that reading inaccurate. I now have my thermometer over the left corner of the door and the temps seem to reflect what I would expect (500-650).

I was also concerned with my burn rate at colder temps. Again at the advice of folks here I added two rows of foil tape over my outside air intake. I now have much more control to slow the burn. In my opinion that is what is most important. I posted a video of my burn for folks to comment on the rate/flame activity. Maybe try doing that here?

I get a really nice flow of fire out of my baffle when the temps are high enough. You won't get the secondary burn on a cold start right away. Yes, the secondaries will burn into the wood if you pack it full. That's fine/normal. I have noticed that sometimes I only get secondaries on one side or only in the middle. This changes over the life of the burn and on each load. My guess is it has to do with temps and off gassing not happening at the same time throughout the load?

I have had a lot of fun learning with this fireplace. Every time I light/load it I learn something new. I am extremely happy with how well it heats my home and I am excited to continue to learn how to get the most out of the FP-30.

Ok thanks bfast....
500-650 over the handle side of the door EH....
If you put up a short vid of that and your flammage, I would like to see.
I'm thinking if I go for those temps I will be smelling and hearing new things again.
From a bed of coals, how fast are you getting up to that temp?
I appreciate the help
FWIW, i am leaning on caution side, due the fact I've worked nearly every day and most nights to get this house built to this stage for 4 months. And as fun as it has been, I don't want to start ALL OVER.

 

[mcdougy]

Bfast - I am going on winter #3 with mine. If your getting good secondary flames that means you have good dry wood and you are burning the unit as intended. My 1st year with this I was too worried about overfire. I have learned to just watch the glass and flame pattern and make apropriate air adjustments. This is the 1st unit I have owned that likes to burn with air almost all the way off. PE gives you way more air adjustment than really needed. Enjoy your fireplace! Mine burns about every day October - March in Wisconsin.

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Mike, aprox. How much wood are you going thru a season? If inclined, area your heating and in general insulation of home?
Thanks

 

[Mike M.]

Mike, aprox. How much wood are you going thru a season? If inclined, area your heating and in general insulation of home?
Thanks

I have no idea how much wood I burn, everything we have is free wood (minus labor). We have a NC30 in the basement also which we use a lot. Our home is focus on energy rated, 6in walls, double pane windows, lots of insulation in the attic, spray foamed box sils, ect. Very well built. If I had to guess probably 2 or 3 full cords each winter. Home is 2100 square feet above grade and 1400 below grade. Basement is a lookout but not walk out. I can pretty much heat this place to 80 firing both the PE and the 30 if I wanted.

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[saydinli]

Ok...we are talking 600F on the outside of the firebox 1/4" above the cast door correct?
Yes I have an oak. I would enjoying seeing a short vid of your fire at 600f with the air shut down to compare if you wish. As I know you had to adjust your oak.
I did a larger burn this a.m. And did get some new noises and smells from the stove.
Question....I read the vague dialog in the manual regarding the white chunks of insulation between the baffle and firebox. Is the insulation to be tight between the firebox and baffle or just pushed against the baffle? Mine is in place tight against the baffle and sticking up above, which leaves a gap to the firebox. If I turned the insulation the other way it would make this gap go away. I'm thinking its intended to make a tight fight not the way mine is in place, but would like to confirm.
Thanks for the help.

Yes 600F 1/4” right above the centre of the door . I can’t seem to attach a video just a picture.

My insulation is up against the baffle not the firebox wall. That’s the way my installer put it in and that’s the way I replaced it with a new one.

You’ll continue to get smells as it reaches new higher temps.

I’ll try and get a video and send it to you but I’m kinda busy the next few days on a few projects so my wife is tending the fire for the most part.

If you feel he fire takes off too easy try blocking off half your OAK and see how that helps.
If you reload around 200F you won’t need the air open very long. Start to close it off in increments within 5-10mins of a reload until it’s up to temp.




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