PE summit draft issue, advice needed

[red247dog]

Just fired up my new PE Summit for its break in burn and the draft seemed pretty weak. Couldn't get the stove pipe temp up above 250-300, had to open door to get it going well, never had to close down air control, smoke visible in chimney the whole time. Stove goes into chimney that must be 25 feet from thimble to the top, 8x8" tile lined, new chimney cap on the top. No draft issues when different stove was burned in basement last year, new stove is on first floor.

I did just put a flame to the gap between thimble and thimble adaptor and there is definitely some leakage in that area as flame is drawn in strongly. What should I use to seal this gap? Would just that make a big difference. Wood was good and dry.

Also, as you can see, my sweep put a 90 deg bend in when installing stove, not sure why, maybe due to clearance issue with wall near thimble, don't know how much this would affect draft. Nice breezy 55 degree day in Maine. Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[fossil]

Best thing I can think you might do is install a full insulated liner in the chimney flue. Rick

 

[begreen]

A few things to check. The horiz run must be headed uphill towards the thimble. At least 1/4" per foot rise is required. Is this an exterior chimney? How much rise is there after the thimble? How dry is the wood?

 

[fossil]

Maybe back-to-back 45's in place of that 90 going into the thimble. Rick

 

[karl]

55 is not super strong draft weather. I would check for leaks in the pipe everywhere and seal them. Then try a fire and see if the draft is better. At 55 it should suck the smoke out but I wouldn't expect you to be able to damper it down all the way.

 

[red247dog]

Rise after the thimble is about 25 feet, goes through the second floor and then through a full unconditioned attic, then another few feet past the roof. Chimney is in conditioned space except for attic, which is probably pretty warm today, but cold in the winter. Wood is nice and dry.

The horizontal section of stove pipe doesn't really have any pitch, but is only about 1.5 feet long.

What should I use to seal around thimble space?

Sounds like the warmer it is outside, the worse the draft? Would you expect better draft when it is cold outside (ie. winter, not late summer)? Or even a cool evening?

Thanks for the help

 

[North of 60]

Rise after the thimble is about 25 feet, goes through the second floor and then through a full unconditioned attic, then another few feet past the roof. Chimney is in conditioned space except for attic, which is probably pretty warm today, but cold in the winter.

The horizontal section of stove pipe doesn't have any pitch, but is only about 1.5 feet long.

What should I use to seal around thimble space?

Sounds like the warmer it is outside, the worse the draft? Would you expect better draft when it is cold outside (ie. winter, not late summer)? Or even a cool evening?

Thanks for the help

The temp differance will make the difference. Remember hot goes to cold. Heat rises causing the draft. Leaks work like a
barometric and slow the draft down at the point where you need it. RE; at the stove. Furnace / stove cement would be the trick
if its large leaks that you have. Fossil has the right idea on the liner though.

 

[thechimneysweep]

Here's some things to try, in this order.

1) If the Summit is venting into the same flue you were using to vent the stove in the basement, make sure the basement stove is disconnected and the downstairs thimble opening mortared up tight. Eliminate any other openings in the flue.

2) Make sure your new cap isn't restricting airflow.

3) Check your door seal. Close the door on a dollar bill and tug, repeating all the way around the perimeter, and tap the catch lightly with a hammer until you feel resistance all the way around.

4) Seal the stovepipe fitting at the thimble with furnace cement. It is available in caulking tubes for small jobs.

5) If you haven't connected the Summit to outside combustion air, try opening a window in the room.

6) Wait for chillier weather to start your next fire.

7) If your draft problem persists, install a 6" stainless liner.

 

[thechimneysweep]

Whoops, just happened to think: this should actually be #1:

If you haven't connected the stove to outside combustion air, remove the 4" room air knockout in the back of the pedestal.

 

[red247dog]

I should add that I plan to use the outside air kit, right now I just have a 4" piece of duct going from the bottom KO in stove to my basement, have not connected it to the outside yet. I did open the door to the basement to make sure that plenty of air was available.

Tom, when you say to check that the cap does not restrict airflow, I don't know exactly what you mean. The flue tile terminates at the crown, and the cap is a double flue cap that covers the whole chimney, with the mesh on the sides and so forth. I am guessing close to a foot between the flue tile and the "roof" of the cap. Does that sound ok? You being a stove salesman, do you think that 90 degree bend is an issue or worth redoing.

I will get some furnace cement and seal the leaky area.

Thanks!

 

[RedRanger]

I should add that I plan to use the outside air kit, right now I just have a 4" piece of duct going from the bottom KO in stove to my basement, have not connected it to the outside yet. I did open the door to the basement to make sure that plenty of air was available.

Tom, when you say to check that the cap does not restrict airflow, I don't know exactly what you mean. The flue tile terminates at the crown, and the cap is a double flue cap that covers the whole chimney, with the mesh on the sides and so forth. I am guessing close to a foot between the flue tile and the "roof" of the cap. Does that sound ok? You being a stove salesman, do you think that 90 degree bend is an issue or worth redoing.

I will get some furnace cement and seal the leaky area.

Thanks!

The 90 is an issue for sure. Now I am thinking back to the mid eighties when we had a drolet wood stove on a interior chimney with a 90 and I had to remove it and clean it every 6 weeks. Of course, this is pre-epa certified. but I would take that pipe outside and knock out the 1/4-1/2 inch of shiney creosote out of it just as a matter-of-course.

I am thinking 2 45`s and some vertical will help somewhat, and perhaps even alliviate the problem altogether with a new stove like you have?

 

[Hogwildz]

Is that thing meeting clearances?
I'd get rid of the 90 and do a 45 there.
Maybe make it a corner install?

 

[iceman]

if i am correct you have that stove venting into a clay lined chimney..
45 -90- horizontal run in 6-8ft =to much drag
def try 45s instead of the of the 90
build out the hearth and go for corner install
your setup will work but not till its much colder and it will be tough to start... but once it gets going it will run
however save yourself the aggravation and make changes now