PE Summit install not as smooth as I would have liked it

[NCredneck]

Received my Summit Friday afternoon and started the install process Saturday. Whew is all I can say. I cut the existing cast iron damper out to allow the liner room for entry. In hindsight, I wish I had cut several inches more in all directions but I was trying to allow just enough room for the liner plus insulation plys 1 inch space around it.
Next I prepared a block off plate that would be installed at the top of the fireplace brick opening. I bent the sides down 1 inch and the front would rest on the steel beam that holds the face brick while the back of the block off plate would butt against the fire brick. I cut a hole in the block off plate again big enough to allow 1 inch around the liner + insulation. If I did it over this would be several inches bigger as well. After screwing the block off plate up on the edges much to my disappointment the block off plate sagged in the middle leaving me to drive through it and the steel beam with 1/8 holes to hold it up.....hard as heck because the plate was made of stainless steel that I got from a friend that was the only scrap he had around. So after a hour or so of pushing like heck to get through the SS and 1/4 inch steel plate that holds the face brick, I'm through it ...on to the liner
I prep the liner by cutting it 2 foot longer than what I need and wrap it with insulation and wire mesh. Easy enough. Then I hoist it to the roof, drop it down the chimney and wrestle getting it through a barely large enough damper hole and also barely large enough block off plate hole. WHEW!!
I decided to use my ash cleanout as an outside air intake so I bend some steel metal to provide a duct elbow just the right size that when the stove is pushed back into the space it will sandwich the made up duct to the back of the fireplace brick...about 4 inches....not to hard.
Ok now to the fun stuff, getting the stove in place. I finally got the liner through both plates and tied it off up top so it would dangle just above the stove once pushed in.
We walked the stove into the fireplace and heres where the fun begins......3 hours of wrestling with a connector that would not seat all the way into the stove opening. I think ultimately it was in somewhat of an angle which put it in a bind going into the stove assembly.
So after wrestling with trying to get the liner connector into the stove assembly for hours, I just can't get it to seat all the way down. Its 2 inches in the stove assembly out of 2.75 or 3 inches possible. It is past the holes that are provided for screwing the liner connector to the stove and thats the plan. Is that far enough? I don't see how it could come out if I can get 3 screws in it. Opinions?

Pictures are coming...I was tired and will post later in the week.

 

[maxed_out]

NC, Hey you got a good heater there!

I think most of us have struggled with some of the same issues. I went thru it with my encore and then again with the isle royale. All I can say is sometimes you got to get away from this stuff for a couple of days and try again. I know I did a couple of adjustments over time and it eventually worked out to my satisfaction. Get some rest and hang in there. I wouldnt fire it up until you are happy.

 

[NCredneck]

Overall, I feel pretty good about it....the only concern is whether or not the connector must be all the way in the stove. I tried everything I can think of, even tried to remove it from the stove with no success. If I had to take it back out the only way I think I could is maybe with a hammer and bend the connector in enough to pry it out..buy a new connector and start over. But it is down in the hole well past the predrilled screw holes that PE puts on the stove pipe assembly. But I do wish it was all the way in, any comments on whether or not it has to be?

 

[hearthnleisure]

What is restricting the connector from going down all the way? If it is a offset problem, there are offset connectors available in 15 degree or 30 degree which might make a smoother transition. Otherwise, maybe you could add a length of rigid 6" stainless to the connector to make up the difference in height.

 

[NCredneck]

It only lacks about an inch from bottoming out in the stove hole. I just can't get it down any further...its a tight azzz fit is all I can tell, I tried tilting the stove every direction, sprayed a little oil on the liner connector too...no go..cant even remove it now cuz I tried that too. Its in the stove hole just not bottomed out...unless I tear it up it aint coming back out or going in any further...hope its enough...like I say I can definately get screws into it and it should not go anywhere for sure then..I just wish it was all the way down into the stove hole instead of lacking an inch.

Edit: Just thought of one other way I could get it further down...remove the liner from the connector by drilling the ss rivets out then there should be no binding or whatever is going on and then reinstall the liner to the connector once I get it furhter into the stove hole...I just hate to do that if it aint necessary...might be another issue trying to hit the same rivet holes once I do...Idk.

 

[Hogwildz]

I don't think your going to get 3" of that connect into the stove outlet. At the bottom of the outlet is a tab, that the inner top s.s. heatshield of the stove bolts to to help hold it in place. You are most likely hitting that tab with the end of the connector. If your all the way in to that tab, then screw that sucker into place and be done with it. Seal around the connector with furnace cement. Option 2 is to remove the insert baffle assy, then drop the connector in till it hits that tab, mark it and notch the connector enough to allow it to slide down around the tab.

 

[BrowningBAR]

Received my Summit Friday afternoon and started the install process Saturday. Whew is all I can say. I cut the existing cast iron damper out to allow the liner room for entry. In hindsight, I wish I had cut several inches more in all directions but I was trying to allow just enough room for the liner plus insulation plys 1 inch space around it.
Next I prepared a block off plate that would be installed at the top of the fireplace brick opening. I bent the sides down 1 inch and the front would rest on the steel beam that holds the face brick while the back of the block off plate would butt against the fire brick. I cut a hole in the block off plate again big enough to allow 1 inch around the liner + insulation. If I did it over this would be several inches bigger as well. After screwing the block off plate up on the edges much to my disappointment the block off plate sagged in the middle leaving me to drive through it and the steel beam with 1/8 holes to hold it up.....hard as heck because the plate was made of stainless steel that I got from a friend that was the only scrap he had around. So after a hour or so of pushing like heck to get through the SS and 1/4 inch steel plate that holds the face brick, I'm through it ...on to the liner
I prep the liner by cutting it 2 foot longer than what I need and wrap it with insulation and wire mesh. Easy enough. Then I hoist it to the roof, drop it down the chimney and wrestle getting it through a barely large enough damper hole and also barely large enough block off plate hole. WHEW!!
I decided to use my ash cleanout as an outside air intake so I bend some steel metal to provide a duct elbow just the right size that when the stove is pushed back into the space it will sandwich the made up duct to the back of the fireplace brick...about 4 inches....not to hard.
Ok now to the fun stuff, getting the stove in place. I finally got the liner through both plates and tied it off up top so it would dangle just above the stove once pushed in.
We walked the stove into the fireplace and heres where the fun begins......3 hours of wrestling with a connector that would not seat all the way into the stove opening. I think ultimately it was in somewhat of an angle which put it in a bind going into the stove assembly.
So after wrestling with trying to get the liner connector into the stove assembly for hours, I just can't get it to seat all the way down. Its 2 inches in the stove assembly out of 2.75 or 3 inches possible. It is past the holes that are provided for screwing the liner connector to the stove and thats the plan. Is that far enough? I don't see how it could come out if I can get 3 screws in it. Opinions?

Pictures are coming...I was tired and will post later in the week.

I can relate. I just squeezed an Encore into a very tight space. Had to pull out the stove about 6 times in total. The second to last time I moved it I thought I was all set. The elbow connected to the liner, which connected to the reducer which connected to the flue collar. Screws were in, the flue collar was properly attached to the stove, everything was level. I was a happy clam until I looked down and saw the new back panel to the catalytic assembly sitting next to me which can only be inserted from the back of the stove. Had to disconnect the entire thing and pull the stove out again.

 

[NCredneck]

Thanks for the comment Hogwildz..I felt the tab you are referring to...the connector is not touching that yet, its about 3/4 inch above it but around 1.75 to 2 inches below the predrill PE holes ..If I could just whack the heck out of it one time...lol

 

[NCredneck]

Received my Summit Friday afternoon and started the install process Saturday. Whew is all I can say. I cut the existing cast iron damper out to allow the liner room for entry. In hindsight, I wish I had cut several inches more in all directions but I was trying to allow just enough room for the liner plus insulation plys 1 inch space around it.
Next I prepared a block off plate that would be installed at the top of the fireplace brick opening. I bent the sides down 1 inch and the front would rest on the steel beam that holds the face brick while the back of the block off plate would butt against the fire brick. I cut a hole in the block off plate again big enough to allow 1 inch around the liner + insulation. If I did it over this would be several inches bigger as well. After screwing the block off plate up on the edges much to my disappointment the block off plate sagged in the middle leaving me to drive through it and the steel beam with 1/8 holes to hold it up.....hard as heck because the plate was made of stainless steel that I got from a friend that was the only scrap he had around. So after a hour or so of pushing like heck to get through the SS and 1/4 inch steel plate that holds the face brick, I'm through it ...on to the liner
I prep the liner by cutting it 2 foot longer than what I need and wrap it with insulation and wire mesh. Easy enough. Then I hoist it to the roof, drop it down the chimney and wrestle getting it through a barely large enough damper hole and also barely large enough block off plate hole. WHEW!!
I decided to use my ash cleanout as an outside air intake so I bend some steel metal to provide a duct elbow just the right size that when the stove is pushed back into the space it will sandwich the made up duct to the back of the fireplace brick...about 4 inches....not to hard.
Ok now to the fun stuff, getting the stove in place. I finally got the liner through both plates and tied it off up top so it would dangle just above the stove once pushed in.
We walked the stove into the fireplace and heres where the fun begins......3 hours of wrestling with a connector that would not seat all the way into the stove opening. I think ultimately it was in somewhat of an angle which put it in a bind going into the stove assembly.
So after wrestling with trying to get the liner connector into the stove assembly for hours, I just can't get it to seat all the way down. Its 2 inches in the stove assembly out of 2.75 or 3 inches possible. It is past the holes that are provided for screwing the liner connector to the stove and thats the plan. Is that far enough? I don't see how it could come out if I can get 3 screws in it. Opinions?

Pictures are coming...I was tired and will post later in the week.

I can relate. I just squeezed an Encore into a very tight space. Had to pull out the stove about 6 times in total. The second to last time I moved it I thought I was all set. The elbow connected to the liner, which connected to the reducer which connected to the flue collar. Screws were in, the flue collar was properly attached to the stove, everything was level. I was a happy clam until I looked down and saw the new back panel to the catalytic assembly sitting next to me which can only be inserted from the back of the stove. Had to disconnect the entire thing and pull the stove out again.

Makes me wonder why I decided to install this thing myself....probably cuz I do everything else around the house myself too....sometimes I wonder....My wife said why don't we just have somebody come fix it, adding it may cost more now to remove what I have done....I was NOT smiling.

 

[Hogwildz]

Thanks for the comment Hogwildz..I felt the tab you are referring to...the connector is not touching that yet, its about 3/4 inch above it but around 1.75 to 2 inches below the predrill PE holes ..If I could just whack the heck out of it one time...lol

I'd say your good to go. The connector that came with mine had a plate that rested on top of the stove. The round part that extends into the stove outlet was curled around along the entire top to rest on top of the stove outlet. Problem was, the round part bottomed out on the top of the outlet before the plate would rest on the insert top. I ended up cutting off the plate and just using the round part. If i remember correctly, the connector only made it past the stove's outlet fastening holes by maybe a 1/2" or so. I went with that, set the connector in furnace cement along the entire stove outlet, and attached with the screws. Have never had a problem. Once the weight of the liner is resting on there, that thing ain't going anywhere.
One word or caution.... the s.s. screws that came with my connector were slightly larger than the stove outlet mounting holes. They were TIGHT! S.S is brittle and one did snap, flush with the outlet's mounting hole. I had to drill a new hole and use a new screw, could not get a grip on the broken one to remove it. If the screws are too tight, do yourself a favor and drill the holes a little bigger. Those screws do and will snap off fairly easily.

 

[NCredneck]

I didn't get 3 screws with mine so I went to Lowes yesterday and bought some ss self tapping screws that I think should just barely fit into the holes, if not I will do as you say..drill em bigger. Thanks again...just makes me feel better knowing it don't have to go all the way to the tab.
Edit: Did you use the outside air intake or pop the hole on the side? how do you feel its working?

 

[Hogwildz]

I didn't get 3 screws with mine so I went to Lowes yesterday and bought some ss self tapping screws that I think should just barely fit into the holes, if not I will do as you say..drill em bigger. Thanks again...just makes me feel better knowing it don't have to go all the way to the tab.
Edit: Did you use the outside air intake or pop the hole on the side? how do you feel its working?

I did not use the OAK. I just punched out the knock out in the side case.
It runs just fine. Heats this big ol place very well.

 

[NCredneck]

Ok uploaded a few pics of the install tonight. The pictures are of the delivered unit, the damper cut away, and of the unit sitting in the opening with block off plate and liner connected.

The block off plate is loose right now so the inspector can look above it then I will screw it back up with roxul above it.

 

[Hogwildz]

Looking good.
One more thing I did after a couple years of it annoying me. I painted the inside of the top casing and the 2 deflectors black with stove paint. The gray really stands out and looks out of place once it is all together, and to me stuck out like a sore thumb. So I painted it. If your going to consider that, do it before you put it all together and get it in there. Its a real pain in the arse to do afterwards.