you don't happen to have any pictures of yours do you Hogwildz? I've searched a ton here and on google and can't find any photos showing a duraliner flat appliance adapter on a stove or insert.
PE Super Insert. Opinions/Info?
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I'll be honest after researching the heck out of this I find it almost hard to believe that duraliner doesn't simply make a oval to round appliance adapter that can slide male end into the appliance and be screwed to the flue collar?
If you are referring to the 14" piece I didn't think it could be trimmed and still connected?
The only option I see for using duraliner now is to suck it up and hack on a flat adaptor, I'll determine once I get the photos whether that's something I'll even consider. Or use a 15 degree round to round off the insert which is the only part in their literature that they don't give actual dimensions on for height but it appears lower profile then the 30 or 45 and then use the 14" round to oval flex to the 3' flex. This will for certain put me up into the clay liners.
I was mistaken, the adapter was actually too short to reach the stove body top. That is why I cut the plate off, plus I just did not want to put holes in the top of the stove. Her are some photos, or the adapter, the ring cut off and the ring used to connect the flex.
Attachments
Thanks for those photos.
It does look like the end of that flex could attach. I asked a bout that and was told it was supposed to use an adapter still. I've measured yet again and I don't have room for any kind of tall adapter. To me the cleanest install still is using their oval to round flat adapter and just the one 3' section of flex.
It does look like the end of that flex could attach. I asked a bout that and was told it was supposed to use an adapter still. I've measured yet again and I don't have room for any kind of tall adapter. To me the cleanest install still is using their oval to round flat adapter and just the one 3' section of flex.
Do what you feel is best for you. Personally, if the flex fits on the outlet and you can get 2 or 3 srews to secure it to the outlet, you are good to go. Of course they want you to buy the adapter, it's more money for them.
FYI, when you go to screw either the adapter or flex to the outlet, pre drill holes a just a smidge smaller than the S.S. screws. S.S. screws both break & strip very easily. They are a bioch to get out once you break them.
FYI, when you go to screw either the adapter or flex to the outlet, pre drill holes a just a smidge smaller than the S.S. screws. S.S. screws both break & strip very easily. They are a bioch to get out once you break them.
Well I'm not finding any of the answers I need to feel confident in going ahead with the duraliner. I'm not willing to modify the appliance or any of the components to 'make it work'. I liked the idea of being able to extend my flue out the top with the use of the extenda cap kit and get a couple extra feet of stack that way. I also liked the quality of construction and insulation of the system but I can't get past the appliance connection. Seems hokey to me to drill and seal a connector to the appliance and any of the other options either flat out won't fit or push the uninsulated flex up into the clay liners, nullifying the ZC. If duravent gets me the pics of the flat round to oval adapter I'll share them here.
At this point I'm thinking an ovalized six inch liner should leave me room to wrap the whole thing in 1/2" insulation but will research that over the weekend. My guy at my supplier is off until Monday so I won't know until then what my most cost effective methods may be. I will need to transition at the top of the chimney to class A if I want to extend the flue which I think I need to for performance.
Thanks everyone who's helped and given advice as I blunder through this. I really appreciate it. I've been learning lots.
At this point I'm thinking an ovalized six inch liner should leave me room to wrap the whole thing in 1/2" insulation but will research that over the weekend. My guy at my supplier is off until Monday so I won't know until then what my most cost effective methods may be. I will need to transition at the top of the chimney to class A if I want to extend the flue which I think I need to for performance.
Thanks everyone who's helped and given advice as I blunder through this. I really appreciate it. I've been learning lots.
I'm uncertain of the fit. But if I use the round to oval 14" flex adaptor that will push the 3' flex section up into the clay liners. I can't fit the 3' flex down the chimney with insulation on it. So the whole install then no longer meets ZC. Also from what I can see of the sheet metal surround that encases my PE insert there is no room for any female overlap(if that makes sense). It is meant to only have a male end inserted into the flue collar. I believe this to be so because the sheet metal fits very closely around the flue outlet and on the backside it actually has a tab connecting the sheet metal to the outside of the flue collar.
Here you can see that tab, and obviously the front half of the sheet metal is off.
Here you can see that tab, and obviously the front half of the sheet metal is off.
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I've considered a 15 but again, as soon as the 14" round to oval flex adapter comes into play I'm pushing uninsulated flex up the clay liners, a 15 or any kind of elbow or even straight piece off of the insert will only push that flex further up? Also I'm tight on height in the firebox. My only install with duraliner to meet ZC that I can see with leaving the clay liners in place is to have the 3' flex go directly to the oval to round appliance adapter. But then I have to cut the sheet metal surround of the insert and seal and drill/screw that adaptor right to the top of the stove. My supplier had that part right in his hand when he recommended I don't go that route and said that four out of five of those adapters he's sold get returned. His concern was the integrity of that screwing and sealant, also concerned about cleaning it effectively, and lastly he feels it will hamper draft by causing unnecessary turbulence/obstruction right off the appliance. To clarify these concerns of his were specific to the round to oval appliance adapter.
I really like a lot of the things about the duraliner product and believe it to be a quality relining system. It just may not work for me in this instance.
It's seeming more and moreso that if I can ovalize a six inch flex liner enough to fit it down my 6"x13" clay liner with a 1/2" insulation wrap that that is the way to go. And simply push it back to round after the damper and use a straight six inch flex to appliance adapter.
I just then need to find the appropriate transition top plate to go to class a for a 3' extension off the top of the chimney.
It's seeming more and moreso that if I can ovalize a six inch flex liner enough to fit it down my 6"x13" clay liner with a 1/2" insulation wrap that that is the way to go. And simply push it back to round after the damper and use a straight six inch flex to appliance adapter.
I just then need to find the appropriate transition top plate to go to class a for a 3' extension off the top of the chimney.
I will if their tech support contacts me and e-mails me the photos. A customer rep, forwarded my questions about the oval to round flat appliance adapter onto their 'tech' department yesterday but so far nothing from them yet.
Also as I understand it technically I can't modify the insert in any way, lest the cert be voided. So I shouldn't be cutting the sheet metal surround of the insert, even though I'm sure the reality of that is it won't adversely affect anything. But drilling and tapping or using self tapping screws into the top of the insert itself? That seems questionable to me, and that's right from duraliners install instructions. My supplier had mentioned to me that what if I did that to a customers insert and then it had to be pulled and taken in for a recall or warranty work? How would the manufacturer view those modifications?
From what I've seen and researched not having appliance adaptors that simply insert male end into the flue and can be screwed through the flue collar is a shortcoming of the duraliner system. Mind you. If there is room for either a elbow or some form of round to round piece and then the round to oval flex adaptor can be used obviously it can be done with a clean flue collar attachment. I just don't see that working in my particular scenario.
Also as I understand it technically I can't modify the insert in any way, lest the cert be voided. So I shouldn't be cutting the sheet metal surround of the insert, even though I'm sure the reality of that is it won't adversely affect anything. But drilling and tapping or using self tapping screws into the top of the insert itself? That seems questionable to me, and that's right from duraliners install instructions. My supplier had mentioned to me that what if I did that to a customers insert and then it had to be pulled and taken in for a recall or warranty work? How would the manufacturer view those modifications?
From what I've seen and researched not having appliance adaptors that simply insert male end into the flue and can be screwed through the flue collar is a shortcoming of the duraliner system. Mind you. If there is room for either a elbow or some form of round to round piece and then the round to oval flex adaptor can be used obviously it can be done with a clean flue collar attachment. I just don't see that working in my particular scenario.
Yeah I have done that a few times usually it is just the surround on an insert though not the actual stove
I don't mean through the flue collar to the adapter. As near as I can tell from the stock photos the duraliner adapter plate I'm referring to sits entirely over the flue collar in a box or rectangular shape and then is sealed and drilled to the body of the stove itself? That's how it appears in the pictures and the instructions and how it was described to me by my supplier.
Yes and that is asinine to me. I have drilled and tapped stove tops to accept brackets to hold the collar in or to accept bolts to hold a boot on on older stoves. But there is no reason they should not have a part that would slide into the collar they way it should.
I had assumed(scary word) that the duraliner instructions referred to the body of the stove and not the surround, otherwise sealing it seems pointless?
Nowhere in their install manuals or product info files or parts listing can I find an actual photo of the round to oval appliance adapter. I hope they send me photos of it.
Nowhere in their install manuals or product info files or parts listing can I find an actual photo of the round to oval appliance adapter. I hope they send me photos of it.
I'm not trying to be painfully difficult here. Because I lack experience I need to fully understand this before I'll just slap a box full of fire in my home.
I am constantly seeing setups around here that don't meet code, so I'm just wanting to fully understand this. I've cleaned atleast a handful of setups that were insurance claim relinings for chimney fires and the liner is clearly uninsulated and often undersized to fit through the old damaged liners still.
So I'm just wanting to make certain that I learn and understand as much as possible before doing my insert and eventually leading to doing re-linings and installs down the line for others once my cert comes through.
I am constantly seeing setups around here that don't meet code, so I'm just wanting to fully understand this. I've cleaned atleast a handful of setups that were insurance claim relinings for chimney fires and the liner is clearly uninsulated and often undersized to fit through the old damaged liners still.
So I'm just wanting to make certain that I learn and understand as much as possible before doing my insert and eventually leading to doing re-linings and installs down the line for others once my cert comes through.
This part? or another? I'm not seeing a simple adapter either.
https://www.northlineexpress.com/6-...ex-chimney-relining-pipe-6dlr-14rof-6042.html
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Not that one. The actual flat 15 or 30 round to oval appliance part that is meant to be attached to the stove with sealant and screws. Duraliner part no 4680-O specifically. Most of the suppliers just show the round one as a stock photo for the flat oval one. And I have been able to see a few pics of the angled one online but just from sort of the top as a stock photo. And if it is as it appears in the stock photo then it just sort of sits over the flue collar as a box and I don't see how it could be effectively cleaned around the outside of the flue collar once a 'box' is installed over it?
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