Pellet Stove Install Advice

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
great looking install...looks familiar!

The bump to the right kinda works because the tile work is all up and to the right too. Man, I'll tell you all what...that is a HEAVY stove. We removed about 210 lbs out of it and it was still 200lbs huffing up the stairs.

Used Simpson PVP 4" piping painted with Stove Bright Satin Black #1990 (Actually it was stove pipe touch up #2330). The take-off is to the right and using a T with a 45 into a 45 plus a modified 4" stove adapter we were able to get the pipe aligned to center...but were still off about 5/8 of an inch. It worked out ok cause the rafters overhead made us have to bump out back to the right, it would have looked hokey going straight up from the far right.

The stove is in awesome shape adn for those of you who are contemplating an enamel cast stove...this is the cat's meow...still my favorite stove of all time.

Mike, thanks for the install, I enjoyed ever second of it.....man I love my job!
 
We have 3 pellet stoves in a 2300 ft ranch style home. We use 2 stoves normally with the 3rd one ( auto lite quadrafire) as a backup in case we hsve to be away over night.

All our units are direct vented with down turned 45 degree terminations.

As long as your windows do not open the location is perfect.

We have had many power outages and never any issues with back drafting.

my one concern with the location is, cleaning the vent. Many of us old pellet dogs use a leaf blower " on the suck side" to clean the vents, so access to the vent is esential.

DO IT TO CODE AND YOU WILL LOVE IT.

Good luck

Ms Snowy
 
Scott did the install so I have no doubt that everything is up to code. Started grouting the tile, using two part epoxy grout. First time using epoxy grout, kind of a pain in the ass. It does look nice, and supposedly never needs sealing.

Snowy,

The clean out Tee on the back of the stove is tilted on a 45 degree angle so there is access to hook up a leaf blower on the inside of the house.
 
Scott did the install so I have no doubt that everything is up to code. Started grouting the tile, using two part epoxy grout. First time using epoxy grout, kind of a pain in the ass. It does look nice, and supposedly never needs sealing.

Snowy,

The clean out Tee on the back of the stove is tilted on a 45 degree angle so there is access to hook up a leaf blower on the inside of the house.

Leaf blower better be on the outside of the house...... Use a leaf blower with the vacuum option on the Outisde vent.

Like this...

 
  • Like
Reactions: smoke show
Ahh, gotcha. For some reason I thought you put Mega Maid on blow instead of suck and did it from the inside of the house. Since my install went straight up through the roof I don't know about climbing up there, taking the cap off and doing it that way.
 
Hello CT-Mike
You also may want to think about Selkirk Direct Temp venting. Cutting one hole in the house and warming the incoming burn air makes it one of the best ways to go if you can do it! By warming the intake air you get less caked ash in the burn pot during those damp days in the fall and spring.
I did the up and out with the 4' vertical inside, but you can also go straight out.
See my pics and description of the DT install here.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/hr-wp-up-and-out-dt-install-with-custom-lighted-hearth.90555/
 
Scott did the install so I have no doubt that everything is up to code. Started grouting the tile, using two part epoxy grout. First time using epoxy grout, kind of a pain in the ass. It does look nice, and supposedly never needs sealing.

Snowy,

The clean out Tee on the back of the stove is tilted on a 45 degree angle so there is access to hook up a leaf blower on the inside of the house.
Yeah...DO NOT HOOK UP THE LEAF BLOWER INSIDE! You run the risk of over pressuring the gasket seals in the pipe and half of the ash will blow back in the stove Use a long rod and brush. Look at Lowes for dryer vent cleaning rods. Very easy.
 
Hello CT-Mike
You also may want to think about Selkirk Direct Temp venting. Cutting one hole in the house and warming the incoming burn air makes it one of the best ways to go if you can do it! By warming the intake air you get less caked ash in the burn pot during those damp days in the fall and spring.
I did the up and out with the 4' vertical inside, but you can also go straight out.
See my pics and description of the DT install here.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/hr-wp-up-and-out-dt-install-with-custom-lighted-hearth.90555/
Don...the install is done and the pipe is already installed. Why would he uninstall it toss the pipe and buy new pipe?
 
Yesterday afternoon I got the OAK installed. Popped off 4 of the 2x2 tiles behind the stove and got her done. Scott was going to do it as part of the install but it was going long so I told him I would take care of it.

So the better half and I stayed up till around 1 AM getting the tile grouted. Obviously would've been easier to do before the install but things just didn't work out that way. The epoxy grout is definitely a PITA to work with, but looks great, and hopefully never needs cleaning/sealing.

C4FF9749-6518-4540-A4A2-B76078AE36BF-1573-0000024A5719D361_zpsf7ed06ef.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: smoke show
Don...the install is done and the pipe is already installed. Why would he uninstall it toss the pipe and buy new pipe?

ok, I did not see the finished pics till now. Nice job!
 
Are those rods flexible to make it through the jogs in the exhaust?
 
Are those rods flexible to make it through the jogs in the exhaust?
Yes, I have the exact same set-up in my exhaust where the 4" meets the 8" stove pipe I have....goes around it no problem.
See pic of my install:
 

Attachments

  • Astoria 1.jpg
    Astoria 1.jpg
    31.7 KB · Views: 315
Good to know. Are they flexible enough to bend into a 90 so I can use it to clean my insert liner from inside the house?
 
So if you look at this "before" grout photo below and compare it to the "after grout" photo, you will notice that all of the tile has a black haze over it. Side effect of using two part epoxy grout at 1 AM and not sufficiently cleaning the tile afterwards. That grout is impermeable, but a major PITA to clean up. Just got back from Home Cheapo with some sulfamic acid to wash the tile and try and remove the haze.

BEFORE:

9F548F15-0358-43B1-AB4A-69DFCCE35DD2-1020-00000141E7C24EF6_zpseb1836aa.jpg


AFTER:

C4FF9749-6518-4540-A4A2-B76078AE36BF-1573-0000024A5719D361_zpsf7ed06ef.jpg


Anyone have any other ideas if this doesn't work?

Thanks,

Mike
 
Just got a quote from a flooring guy to install the pre-finished hardwood at $1.20/sq ft. Seems a no-brainer to have a pro do it and know that it is done right. Just have to get it painted first. After that is to tile the hallway into the room and door and window trim. Should be finished soon.
 
So the room is painted and the flooring guy finished yesterday. Here is a crappy cell phone pic under halogen work lights. The room is not actually that yellow, more of a greenish gold:

IMG_0336.jpg


Need to do the finish electrical and trim. I think the dark floors look awesome with the brown enamel stove.

There is an ultra-blok surge suppressor on the end of that extension cord. I ran the stove for a couple hours yesterday to take the chill off the upstairs and get more used to how it operates. This baby can really throw the heat when on full blast.
 
  • Like
Reactions: smoke show
Status
Not open for further replies.