Pellet Stove Maintenance Tips

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PepperEvans

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 8, 2009
1
Southern Ca
Basic Steps For Pellet Stove Maintenance:


1. Burn pot. Check daily and clean periodically to keep air inlets open. Frequent cleaning depends on fuel type, grade and content.

2. Empty ash drawer before starting new fires and occasionally by interrupting stove operation. Frequency depends on the fuel and stove design.

3. Heat exchange. On some stoves, simply a matter of moving a rod that scrapes the tube inside the stove. May require professional service on others.

4. Ash traps. Chambers located behind the fire chamber which prevent excess fly ash in the exhaust from escaping from the stove. Some stove designs would require professional service.

5. Glass. Clean with a glass cleaner when the glass is completely cool. May require more vigorous methods on others.
 
Any tips on oiling the auger system, and cleaning the blower(s) wheel? These seem very critical for reliable operation. Thanks in advance!
 
jimmie ray said:
Any tips on oiling the auger system, and cleaning the blower(s) wheel? These seem very critical for reliable operation. Thanks in advance!

You don't say what kind of stove you have so it's tough for anyone to give advice on oiling auger system. On my Quads, there's nothing to oil. Sealed bearings as far as I can tell. You SURE DON'T WANT TO OIL THE AUGER!

As for cleaning the blower cage fins, I use a little brush that was part of a group of attachments I bought at Home Depot.

(broken link removed to http://www.homedepot.com/Appliances-Vacuums-Floor-Care-Vacuum-Accessories/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg1Zaryo/R-100139249/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053)
 
I might get involved in servicing different types of pellet stoves, but haven't seen much about this in various manuals I've read so far. I think some motors are "oiled for life", while others require annual oiling. I'd like to be able to recognize quickly if a motor requires oiling if I go out on a job, and was wondering if there is anything obvious to check for? I did see one manufacturer recommend a coating of PAM or similar light spray oil on the auger, feed tunnel, and even hopper between seasons. When I studied industrial boiler coal feeding systems, I remember a similar procedure for the auger system (with heavy oil, however).
 
jimmie ray said:
I might get involved in servicing different types of pellet stoves, but haven't seen much about this in various manuals I've read so far. I think some motors are "oiled for life", while others require annual oiling. I'd like to be able to recognize quickly if a motor requires oiling if I go out on a job, and was wondering if there is anything obvious to check for? I did see one manufacturer recommend a coating of PAM or similar light spray oil on the auger, feed tunnel, and even hopper between seasons. When I studied industrial boiler coal feeding systems, I remember a similar procedure for the auger system (with heavy oil, however).

Feel free to email or PM me with questions from the field if you get into a bind. Email is best in the field as my Droid will not log onto hearth so I can't get PM's until I get back to the shop. :cheese:
 
As with any forum, there seem to be many other threads here, with slightly different titles, that give some excellent advice and even closeup pictures. I've searched further, and found many answers.
The use of a graphite spray on the auger system sounds like the most logical, for not attracting particles to cake on the moving parts. Cleaning the burn pot properly, by thoroughly scrapping the clinkers and removing all ash below is a no brainer - but it's obvious the homeowner has to attend to this more frequently than once a year. The possible complications to ignition, clean burning, and feeding rate and noise seem to make this super-critical.
It is nice to see certain blower designs that allow for the easy removal of the wheel for inspection and cleaning of the blades, but I wonder why a gasket is not utilized between the motor mounting plate and the blower housing on some? Sheetmetal to sheetmetal, with only three securement points, cannot be trusted to hold back fumes and soot - although this is probably a negative pressure area?
 
generally, yes, negative pressure in exhaust system. I'm hoping that soon the entire industry will shift to permanent silicone gaskets instead of fiberglass pads that you need to replace ever time you remove a motor.
 
yes, silicone seals would be ideal, but the fiber pads = parts money from the homeower every time you do a thourough cleaning... as for my professional opinion, the fiber pads suck: every stove uses different sizes, templates, and its nearly impossible to keep all in stock at any given time. Fome of those pads (like the one around the exh motor assy's on mst pellet units) kinda have tao be exact. Others, like those attatched to cleanout ports, can be easilly replaced w/ fiberglass self adhesive window gasket, which does not crumble away after you touch it.
 
Delta-T said:
generally, yes, negative pressure in exhaust system. I'm hoping that soon the entire industry will shift to permanent silicone gaskets instead of fiberglass pads that you need to replace ever time you remove a motor.

you mean lytherm?

it will continue to be used on motor housings ect, due to its anti vibrational qualities, cost and heat resistant far above silicone

no-one likes a loud pellet stove!
 
is that what it is? lytherm...lytherm, i shall commit that to memory. silicone , i'd think, would have same if not better anti vibrational qualities, certainly cost a lil more, but do they need a material that is resistant above say 1500F? I just feel bad soaking people $5-$25 for 6 grams of spun glass/stone fiber cut to the shape of an ugly bagel.
 
jimmie ray said:
Any tips on oiling the auger system, and cleaning the blower(s) wheel? These seem very critical for reliable operation. Thanks in advance!


yes!!! spray graphite, the product i use is called "slip plate" but there are more brands readily availible , check your "farm" stores like TSC and such.
spray graphite being a virtually inert lubricant will not catch fire, is a contact lubricant and generally does not allow stuff to stick to it so when you do your annual cleaning and pull your auger and exhaust fan , clean them off as well as you can and apply this graphite to the auger , the feed tube , and to the housing/impellor of your exhaust fan(will make it easier to clean next year as well as stay cleaner during the season for better performance.

DISCLAIMER: i do not sell this stuff , but i use a crapload of it
 
Delta-T said:
is that what it is? lytherm...lytherm, i shall commit that to memory. silicone , i'd think, would have same if not better anti vibrational qualities, certainly cost a lil more, but do they need a material that is resistant above say 1500F? I just feel bad soaking people $5-$25 for 6 grams of spun glass/stone fiber cut to the shape of an ugly bagel.

silicone gets very hard over time, and heat
it will loose anti vibrational qualities very quickly
 
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