PF100 not Feeding Pellets

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propanevictim

Member
Hearth Supporter
Feb 23, 2008
24
Northern New Jersey
My PF100 is not feeding pellets. Let me start by saying that the unit--vent, combustion blower, burnpot, heat tubes, etc, are all clean and ash free. The problem presented with a 5 blink status--failure to light--because there were not pellets in the burn pot. I pulled off the bottom cover to take a closer look. When I turn the unit on to automatic to start the lighting process, the combustion blower, feed motor, and igniter lights all come on (burn pot does get hot, as well so igniter seems to be working fine). Looks like the the feed motor is getting power--fan spins no problem, but the cam is not being turned. Feels like something is jamming it or something mechanical has failed inside the motor itself (if that's possible). If I give it some help and turn it by hand, it will turn a little on its own and then stop. The cam will shake otherwise, but won't turn by itself.

SO--is it the feed motor? An auger jam? The vacuum switch (what does that switch do anyway)? If an auger jam, how does one go about un-jamming it? After about 7 years of PF100 use, I'm determined to NOT call my dealer for repairs.
Thanks for your help!
 
If the cam doesn't turn, have you checked to see if the bolt that is located on the cam is tight to the flat spot that is on the auger shaft? This will require you to pull the auger to make sure that the cam bolt is going to contact the flat spot on the auger motor shaft prior to tighting the bolt. It would be a good idea to make sure the auger turns freely when you have the auger motor removed. In the owners manual, find the parts list that shows the cam to locate this bolt that I mention. The vac switch, this switch has to close in order for the auger motor to be powered and run. A reason for it not closing the contacts would be a door gasket leak.
 
I have pulled off feed motor. Turning cam/auger by hand, I'm feeling the same resistance. I can turn it all the way around by hand, but with much force. Seems to get stuck in same spot each time. After playing with it a few minutes, it does rotate more freely but does get stuck. I can't figure out how to get the auger out. Looks like there's a seal holding it in. So is it an auger jam or a bad bearing?
 
If you can turn the auger by hand, it will turn a little hard because of pellets in the feeder tube. The auger is held in place by the metal flange and two nuts which keeps the bearing in place. Remove the two nuts and (metal flange)bearing retainer, the auger should slide out. Do not over tighten these when reinstalling.
 
If you can turn the auger by hand, it will turn a little hard because of pellets in the feeder tube. The auger is held in place by the metal flange and two nuts which keeps the bearing in place. Remove the two nuts and (metal flange)bearing retainer, the auger should slide out. Do not over tighten these when reinstalling.
 
Auger is fine. No jam. I put it all back together and I'm still having the same problem. Cam shakes but doesn't turn the shaft. Almost like the motor doesn't have the juice to do a full rotation. Seems to me like the motor is the problem.
 
Auger gearbox may be stripped. If the auger binds in its rotation, that would create an extra load and take out the gearbox early.
 
Is the auger gearbox inside the feed motor?
The auger motor is attatched to the gear box. If you remove the auger assembly from its location, you can then remove the bolts that hold the two gearbox sections together for inspection. To my knowledge, if needed, no parts are available for the gearbox or replacement of the motor only if needed, only option is replacing the complete assembly. These may be purchased at Gleason-Avery, need to know the RPM, I believe you need a 6 RPM one if you have the finned ignition.

http://www.gleasonavery.com/
 
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The auger motor is attatched to the gear box. If you remove the auger assembly from its location, you can then remove the bolts that hold the two gearbox sections together for inspection. To my knowledge, if needed, no parts are available for the gearbox or replacement of the motor only if needed, only option is replacing the complete assembly. These may be purchased at Gleason-Avery, need to know the RPM, I believe you need a 6 RPM one if you have the finned ignition.

http://www.gleasonavery.com/
Got it. Thanks to all.
 
The auger motor is attatched to the gear box. If you remove the auger assembly from its location, you can then remove the bolts that hold the two gearbox sections together for inspection. To my knowledge, if needed, no parts are available for the gearbox or the replacement of the motor only if needed, only option is replacing the complete assembly. These may be purchased at Gleason-Avery, need to know the RPM, I believe you need a 6 RPM one if you have the finned ignition.

http://www.gleasonavery.com/
I hooked my existing motor up to a separate power supply, and I was able to determine that something is indeed wrong inside the gearbox. With just the slightest resistance offered, the shaft gets held up. It doesn't rotate on its own all too well either. Without prying open the gearbox, sounds like something is stripped inside. I ordered up a replacement from Gleason-Avery. Thanks for the tip!
 
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