Pferd

[Sawset]

I'm going to see if I can give filing chains a shot. Some guys really like it, some not so much. We'll see where I fall into that. So, a Pferd and log vise, ordered, and arrived. At first glance I may see why I thought hand filing was difficult and a waste of time. The simple oregon single file holder and depth gauge file I did have now looks lame and inadequate for the job compared to the Pferd. The Pferd is heavy, seems solid, and has multiple files for right and left filing, and with an integrated third depth gauge file. So you can file right cutter and depth gauge, flip it, then left cutter and depth gauge, without having multiple tools or setups. It feels strong and hefty to the hands. I think I'm going to like it. There is a new chain on the saw that has been through three tanks on red oak. I'll give it a try and see if I can get it down. And then see if it fits in with what I do.

 

[TreePointer]

Good plan.

I find hand sharpening easiest when clamping the bar (still attached to the powerhead) in a bench vise. A little trial and error will reveal the best place along the bar to set the jaws--that is, the place that minimizes vibrations when filing. I also use soft vise jaw inserts to prevent the vise from marring the bar's paint. Something like the following:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-...-Jaws-from-3-in-to-6-in-Wide-BV-NVJ/204986223

 

[johneh]

Been using the same type of file for 5 years now 2-3
passes on good chain and it is just like new beat up
chains take a few more passes . I like it a lot better
than my costly grinder

 

[mtcox1791]

+1 for TreePointer's method. That is exactly what I do with my stihl 2 in 1.

 

[Sawset]

Been using the same type of file for 5 years now 2-3
passes on good chain and it is just like new beat up
chains take a few more passes . I like it a lot better
than my costly grinder

How often have you replaced the files? Or maybe haven't needed to.

 

[johneh]

Still using original files
If you take care of them they will last forever
Don't let them get wet or rust .

 

[jetsam]

Clamp the bar and invest in a cheap slide caliper ($5) so you get all the tooth lengths the same. Thinking you're good at eyeballing it is not as good as measuring it.

Keep an eye on the chain- if your strokes are leaning the chain over on the bar, change your position.

Get a file card, too. Files full of metal bits don't work well.

Listen to the files- the low grinding sound of metal removal is good, the high squeak of skipping teeth is not.

The files that come with them are really good but need regular carding like any file does.

 

[Sawset]

So I had a chance to use the setup a little this weekend. And some thoughts:
At first it took some getting used to. Going through one chain solved most of the dexterity issues. The guide rails orient the horizontal without having to think much about it. Depth tooth, and cutter, are done both at the same time, and guided by rails to the correct depth. The filing is smooth and fast.
Time measurements:
2.5 - 3min
clamp the bar, and file 36 teeth, 18"bar
3-3.5min
Change out to a new chain (not needed)
3-4min
Fuel and oil
The point is, it takes little time to - bop the vise to a log, clamp the bar, and slide a prealigned file across the teeth and depth gauge, and recieve as payback, a glorious stream of chips on a saw that wants to cut. No more leaning into it to get it to go. Reduced power draw, faster cut throughs, and all for a minimal hit on file/refuel time. I'm now spoiled. If it starts to dull - nuts to that - touch it up and its back to gravy work. Like driving a drivers car that wants to go.
One thing I think of when using it - descriptions alone don't do justice. There are many posts on here pertaining to filing. I've read for years about it. I've dismissed it for just as long. And the reason is because I couldn't visualize it. The perception was that it's miserable work to have to sharpen 36 freekn teeth, how often? I can sharpen woodworking tools till they can shave hair off your arm. But a chain saw? - oily and loud and gets no respect (as to a precise sharp chain). Attached are some pictures.
I have a caliper, and will experiment with that. Also cleaning the files sounds like a good idea. Right now they are cutting good. I'll have to remember what that feels like.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

Yup ..It's the next best thing to a new chain !

 

[DodgyNomad]

Great tool. Once you get the feel for it, your results will get better, and better.

I mounted a large vice on a portable hydraulic lift table, and marked the file angles, so it's set up as quick change jig for angle repeat-ability. The tool has good ergonomics, and gives you feedback through your hands. You can feel how sharp it is.

I'm very proficient with it. And the results are excellent. No one I've sharpened for has had better results using another device or from using another sharpening service.

And, they really help a chain last. I only use Stihl full chisel, Rapid Super chains, and they hold an edge very well after sharpening, and last a whole lot longer when hand filing vs. any kind of grinder, in my experience.

 

[rowerwet]

I love mine, however I still end up with a chain that cuts crooked every now and then. My Timberline sharpener get it all back to cutting like new

 

[SpaceBus]

I love mine, however I still end up with a chain that cuts crooked every now and then. My Timberline sharpener get it all back to cutting like new

I saw those and they look pretty slick. Is it convenient?

 

[jetsam]

I love mine, however I still end up with a chain that cuts crooked every now and then. My Timberline sharpener get it all back to cutting like new

That's uneven tooth length. A caliper will keep you on track. Run through the chain and set the caliper to the shortest tooth, then file 'em all down to that length.

A jig or grinder that lets you set tooth length makes it easier to fix.

 

[Sawset]

I also found as a bar ages, it can wear uneven one side or other causing the cut to swerve one way. Filing it back flat seemed to help.

 

[TreePointer]

Additional tip:

If you're hand filing, try using more strokes per tooth. That is, if you're only making 3-4 strokes, try 5-7 (more strokes in general).

This helps to neutralize any difference in left vs. right tooth sharpness that results from a difference in skill/dexterity when sharpening one side vs. the other.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

You should flip the bar every once in a while ..

 

[SpaceBus]

You should flip the bar every once in a while ..

Every time I need to sharpen or change the loop.

 

[rowerwet]

I saw those and they look pretty slick. Is it convenient?

It has a small learning curve, but once you get that figured out it takes any variables out of the equation.
It's not as fast as a grinder, or Pfered sharpener, but much more precise.
I'll set up a table by the stove on a cold night, lay some newspaper on the table, and true up all my loops.
The Pfered is for every other tank of gas in the field. ,

 

[SpaceBus]

It has a small learning curve, but once you get that figured out it takes any variables out of the equation.
It's not as fast as a grinder, or Pfered sharpener, but much more precise.
I'll set up a table by the stove on a cold night, lay some newspaper on the table, and true up all my loops.
The Pfered is for every other tank of gas in the field. ,

I like precise. I can't find electric threaded grinding stones for my 1/4" picco chain. I think I saw the timberline for the tiny chain.

 

[MTASH]

I just used my new Pferd for the first time yesterday. Wow, I am impressed with this tool. I wish I had it years ago!

 

[Sawset]

I just used my new Pferd for the first time yesterday. Wow, I am impressed with this tool. I wish I had it years ago!

Same here. I've used it several times out now, and still really like the feel and results. Just today, cutting nice large cherry rounds, sharp chain, good power to cut, drawing chips, got near the stump and noticed right away the edge was going dull. Refuel, a couple minutes to touch up the chain, and back in business. It stays in the saw case now for easy access.

 

[EODMSgt]

Same here. I've used it several times out now, and still really like the feel and results. Just today, cutting nice large cherry rounds, sharp chain, good power to cut, drawing chips, got near the stump and noticed right away the edge was going dull. Refuel, a couple minutes to touch up the chain, and back in business. It stays in the saw case now for easy access.

Just picked up the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpeners for .325 and 3/8. Will be keeping them in the gear box that is always in the truck when I'm out cutting firewood. Hopefully I'll have as good of luck as you did with the Pferd.

 

[BIGChrisNH]

I have the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpeners for .325 and 3/8 as well, I love them. Ran into a buried eyebolt in a log and it rounded some of the teeth on my 2166 pretty good, but 5 or 6 passes with the 2-in-1 and it brought it right back, fantastic tools.

 

[EODMSgt]

I have the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpeners for .325 and 3/8 as well, I love them. Ran into a buried eyebolt in a log and it rounded some of the teeth on my 2166 pretty good, but 5 or 6 passes with the 2-in-1 and it brought it right back, fantastic tools.

Good to know. I do my best out there to keep the chain out of the ground however as you know, we grow granite here in NH so there's always that accidental *&#^#% moment that can happen.

 

[johneh]

Mine is in with my saw tools . When we cut all day I stop at noon and make 2 or 3
passes and the chain is like new . All my chains are sharp now . I always carry 2
extra in case one breaks . I have not had to use my expensive grinder in over a year
I hope i remember how to use it
Best tool I ever owed for my saw