Picked up an old Quaker stove

[Donlawson84]

I am new to using a wood stove and just dragged an on Quaker Buck out if my parents basement. I cleaned it up, seems to be in very good shape. Seems that I am missing something insternal, any suggestions? This stove is pretty long (34") with the design should I burn in the middle or towards the rear?

Thanks
Donny

 

[jetsam]

The angle iron was probably part of the firebrick setup. It looks like that stove burned for a while with the bottom firebricks in and the side ones out.

I wouldn't burn in that thing at all unless I just needed emergency heat while I saved up for a stove. Even if you rebrick it and rig up a baffle, it's not going to be in the same class as even a poor modern stove in terms of getting BTUs out of wood and into the house. It's pretty, but not so pretty that I'd want to cut 2x the firewood that a normal stove uses.

 

[bholler]

I am new to using a wood stove and just dragged an on Quaker Buck out if my parents basement. I cleaned it up, seems to be in very good shape. Seems that I am missing something insternal, any suggestions? This stove is pretty long (34") with the design should I burn in the middle or twords the rear?
View attachment 241236 View attachment 241237
Thanks
Donny

Do you have a liner run up through that fireplace flue?

 

[Donlawson84]

It should be here today, I bought a stainless Olympia flex line

 

[peakbagger]

I agree the angles are for firebricks. Is the front clearance adequate? (it looks close). Definitely a funky design. given how much of the stove is covered by the fireplace I expect its not going to throw out a lot of heat.

 

[Donlawson84]

It is sitting deep temporary, once I get the liner I am pulling the stove out to run it. After it is ran and the stove is in place it will stick out roughly 18-22"

 

[bholler]

It is sitting deep temporary, once I get the liner I am pulling the stove out to run it. After it is ran and the stove is in place it will stick out roughly 18-22"

If it is deep now you will absolutely need to do more for floor protection. Because it is an unlisted stove you need 18" of protection in front of the door

 

[Donlawson84]

I do have the manual for the stove listing the 16" front clearance . Once it is set in place, then I will modify the flooring for clearances. The liner goes through my existing damper opening (3'x8") right above the firebox. Does anyone know of good methods to insulate around the liner? Should I leave the gaps open? I was prepared to morter in brick, there will be a top cap on the too of the flue.

 

[bholler]

I do have the manual for the stove listing the 16" front clearance . Once it is set in place, then I will modify the flooring for clearances. The liner goes through my existing damper opening (3'x8") right above the firebox. Does anyone know of good methods to insulate around the liner? Should I leave the gaps open? I was prepared to morter in brick, there will be a top cap on the too of the flue.

If the manual call for 16 that should be fine. As far as the area around the liner just use sheet metal with rock wool or mineral wool insulation behind it. The liner should also be insulated.

 

[SpaceBus]

Gorgeous stove! I would clean it up really well and thoroughly check for any cracks. I bet it takes regular sized fire bricks and you could replace them if you wanted. If it were my stove, I would run it with bricks. As others have stated, it will be a hungry stove. The baffle in the back makes it look like it might even get some secondary burn.

 

[Marklashway]

Hi I am looking at a stove just like this I have not seen the inside yet wondering if you can advise me what to look for ? Firebrick’s , flu area ?? I plan to customize the stove by shortening the box length