I think that i am going to abandon burning in this stove until I can get all of the pieces to put up a triple wall chimney in the same place as the pipe. Then my future plans are too put in a forced air wood burning furnace like a hot blast or a norseman
pipe won't stay warm enough. . . .PICS ADDED
- Thread starter Fuel
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
I really have less than $50 in the chimney so far the way that it is, but i have about 25 hours invested in it i my time
In this picture your damper is in the completely closed position. How often do you run it that way? I wouldn't adjust that more than closed 45degrees or from about 2pm to about 7pm (compared to parallel as is measured on the stovepipe, not the floor or wall). Perhaps you shouldn't close it at all for your circumstance. Not all stoves need to utilize a damper.
I improved my old fisher stove this fall a baffle that slowed my draft and I no longer need to use the damper yet still operate with ZERO wood burning smell in the house.
pen
I improved my old fisher stove this fall a baffle that slowed my draft and I no longer need to use the damper yet still operate with ZERO wood burning smell in the house.
pen
when the picture was taken i didn't have a fire in the stove. I have found that this stove can't really be dampered down much at all or it will lose draft
Fuel said:
that makes sense then! My apologies if that was rather obvious. There have been people on here in the past that I am fairly certain would not have been able to tell if it were open or closed. yikes!
pen
- Status
Similar threads
