Play between the wedge and I-bar on the MTD/TB splitter?

[Jay H]

How much play should there be between the wedge/plate and the I-bar? The manual mentions the left/right adjustment via the set screws on the side but it seems to mention only how to adjust the vertical adjustment by loosening the big bolts and nuts and removing the plate underneath. How much play should there be in the vertical plane? The manual mentions to adjust the side screws by tightening them til they hit the beam and then backing them out 1.5 revolutions.

Jay

 

[snowfreak]

Jay I've got the 27 Ton Troy Built splitter. After splitting quite a few rounds of wood I followed the manufactures instructions (tightened both bolts and backed off one and a half turns). There is still quite a bit of play in the wedge. I would think half a turn would be sufficient, but I followed the owners manual. I added a rubber washer (one from the end of a garden hose) to reduce the irritating noise from the main bolt that goes through wedge and piston. I also welded some extra steel under the log cradles, they bent way too easy. I was thinking of adding something onto the end of the splitter so the wedge would go all the way through the wood, for most wood its no big deal but for elm I need a small hatchet to cut the stringy stuff. Sometimes I wonder if these things get field tested, I found these flaws within a week of use.

 

[Jay H]

Jay I've got the 27 Ton Troy Built splitter. After splitting quite a few rounds of wood I followed the manufactures instructions (tightened both bolts and backed off one and a half turns). There is still quite a bit of play in the wedge. I would think half a turn would be sufficient, but I followed the owners manual. I added a rubber washer (one from the end of a garden hose) to reduce the irritating noise from the main bolt that goes through wedge and piston. I also welded some extra steel under the log cradles, they bent way too easy. I was thinking of adding something onto the end of the splitter so the wedge would go all the way through the wood, for most wood its no big deal but for elm I need a small hatchet to cut the stringy stuff. Sometimes I wonder if these things get field tested, I found these flaws within a week of use.

I split some real hairy wood yesterday, I brought my splitting maul to hack at the wedges and got through some of the easier ones with a smaller hatchet or my bow saw but it has done pretty good so far, handling all that I've put at it. The Honda motor is very easy to start and I'm liking it so far. I hear you about the main bolt through the wedge, I might try the same thing.

Jay