Poor draft? Smoke in the house

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The first pic is of the stove vacuumed out. And the second pic is of the amount of creosote that was in my shop vac after cleaning the pipe and the stove but not the cap or the top 2' section of pipe. Also when I put the slip pipe back in I lengthened it so it is tight to the ceiling.
Now correct me if I'm wrong but shouldn't the pipe fit inside the pipe above it? Because these pipes are the opposite. The slip pipe fits inside the stove collar and outside the ceiling box. Isn't that backwards ? The arrows are going up on the pipe. The last pic shows the stove collar and how the slip pipe goes inside it. Something seems goofy here,am I missing a part?
 

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Sorry for the upside down pictures I don't know what's going on. And 2 of the pictures didn't go on , I will try and put them in here. Ahh. The pictures won't go on. Maybe they are to large of a file or over 2 mb. Oh and the stack measures only 13 ft. Is that a problem ?
 
Your chimney like about 13-14', short for most stoves. Adding a few feet should make a much stronger draft. Did cleaning make much difference? I would adjust the slip to get rid of the slack at the top. How long has your wood been cut? The excessive creosote could be from wet wood, air leaks in the pipe, or burning too cool. Probably a combination of at least two. Do you have a stove top thermometer? What temps are you burning at?
 
The cap is ugly, but not totally restricted. I think you need another 2-3 ft on your chimney and a roof brace at 5'. Then stick to burning dry wood, and let your first of the day fire get a little hotter.
 
I have ICC ultrablack double wall pipe. The installation instructions clearly state that the pipe must come OVER the stove collar. If your pipe installation instructions aare the same as mine, it is installed upside down.....
 
Yes the stack measures 13'. I haven't had a fire yet it's to warm out in the 50s. I did lengthen the slip to get the pipe tight at the ceiling box. The wood was cut 1 year ago. I do have a stove top thermometer and it is burning around 300deg and that is with the blower on, it blows right over the thermometer so without the blower on it goes up to 350-375. It takes about 30 min to get up to temp. I think some of my problems are wood being a bit wet, not all of it but some does displace moisture when I put it in. Also the leaking joints letting in room temp air cooling the flu temp causing the build up. And I do have a bad habit of loading the fire before bed and closing the air so it will last untill I get up in the morning. Also when I burn durring the day I get it up to temp and close the air right down, it just gets to hot in the room 80-82. I think I should start building smaller fires and burning them hotter to see what that does for me. Does anyone else have any insight about my joints being "backwards" ?the stove was installed by the store that sold the stove. I really want to know if these pipes are hooked up correctly or what, I think I'm going to call the store and tell them how I have it hooked up without telling them they did the work and see what they tell me. Well see how thAt goes. If you need some certain pics of something to see how it's set up just ask ill be glad to post up another pic or two to get this straightened out. Thanks for all the help here. Later mike
 
Ok so I have been burning some wood lately it's been getting colder out. I have been trying to burn a little hotter and I don't hear the crinkling tinfoil sound when I get it roaring. It is a lot hotter in the house though. It used to get 80-82 before and now it's 85-87. It can be a bit uncomfortable at times. Makes going outside in a t-shirt feel good. It helps keep the temp down if I leave the entryway door open. I don't notice the smoke in the house anymore either. So it looks like I need to get some dryer wood next year and just leave the air control open a little when burning to prevent the build up. Thanks for all the ideas. Another happy burner here. Later mike
 
Maybe small hot fires and not large smoldering or hot fries.
 
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