well , i was just about to make a hearth pad over the weekend when i decided to tote the camera into the garage with me , just to help anyone out who might paroose along this site looking for hearth pad ideas...... i got sick and tired of replacing those ugly hearth rugs. by the time you can see an ember in the hearth rug its too late and it leaves a big burn mark . the whole project cost about 75 bucks(oak trim was like 30$ by itself!) . im happy because i can take it to my next house if i move as well as clean under it if need be. its about 60 pounds though!
i used:
3/4" exterior grade plywood
1/2" hardi-backer board (waterproof)
1 1/4" hardi backer specific screws with 'square bit' to put in drill (more torque)
15' of oak trim from lowes
PL375 construction adhesive tube
stain and polyurethane
silicone caulk
12" porcelain tile (hardest and toughest)
1/4" spacers
thinset mortar and SANDED GROUT (be sure to use sanded to make the bond stronger)
grout sealer
rubber pads for the bottom of the pad so it wont scratch floor or move
well the pics are self explanatory . i liked the 12" tile since 36" was roughly the span i wanted to cover, and 3 tile wide worked out great.
be sure to use hardi backer board, its only like 8$ and works as a waterproofing membrane for the plywood below and strengthens the overall pad.
1. lay out design with spacers
2. incorporate wood trim or tile or metal trim .
3. cut the plywood and slap some thiset on it and lay down the cement board
4. screw it down every 4"
5. let dry 24-48hrs
6. lay tile dry to space it out
7. mix thinset again and lay tile on cement board
8. lay tile in mortar.
9. let dry 2 days.
10. mix grout and spread.
i like to leave the trim on while laying the tile. so then i have a permanent corner to butt my spacers off of. ive learned from past mistakes on this part. i do , however, leave one side of the trim off so i can drag the trowel off the cement board without getting the wood messy .
when all tile are laid and dry i put the last piece of stained and polyurethaned board down. i use finishing nails and PL375 wood glue for the trim.
be sure to seal grout. i use a roller to apply the grout sealer. works great.
any questions just ask! hope it helps someone out
i used:
3/4" exterior grade plywood
1/2" hardi-backer board (waterproof)
1 1/4" hardi backer specific screws with 'square bit' to put in drill (more torque)
15' of oak trim from lowes
PL375 construction adhesive tube
stain and polyurethane
silicone caulk
12" porcelain tile (hardest and toughest)
1/4" spacers
thinset mortar and SANDED GROUT (be sure to use sanded to make the bond stronger)
grout sealer
rubber pads for the bottom of the pad so it wont scratch floor or move
well the pics are self explanatory . i liked the 12" tile since 36" was roughly the span i wanted to cover, and 3 tile wide worked out great.
be sure to use hardi backer board, its only like 8$ and works as a waterproofing membrane for the plywood below and strengthens the overall pad.
1. lay out design with spacers
2. incorporate wood trim or tile or metal trim .
3. cut the plywood and slap some thiset on it and lay down the cement board
4. screw it down every 4"
5. let dry 24-48hrs
6. lay tile dry to space it out
7. mix thinset again and lay tile on cement board
8. lay tile in mortar.
9. let dry 2 days.
10. mix grout and spread.
i like to leave the trim on while laying the tile. so then i have a permanent corner to butt my spacers off of. ive learned from past mistakes on this part. i do , however, leave one side of the trim off so i can drag the trowel off the cement board without getting the wood messy .
when all tile are laid and dry i put the last piece of stained and polyurethaned board down. i use finishing nails and PL375 wood glue for the trim.
be sure to seal grout. i use a roller to apply the grout sealer. works great.
any questions just ask! hope it helps someone out
