Possible draft problem.

[DamienBricka]

Agreed as long as complacency and a chimney fire don't follow. The problem is none of us are actually looking at the blockage or the condition of the chimney. If it is too hard to check, get a pro out there, soon.

I am going to take action. And I do not mind doing it myself. I just need to know the steps I need to take so I can buy the material tomorrow morning so I can fix the problem tomorrow afternoon.

 

[begreen]

I've never installed a 45 connector in a chimney before. It sounds like it might work. Can't say if it will work. Clearances should be honored regardless and that will take an odd thimble. Personally I just I would just clean the chimney and correct the mis-leveled horiz. pipe for now and see how that works. It could be all that's needed. But that's just my opinion.

 

[branchburner]

I know I am a slow learner. So will ask again ............... what should I do in the next 1 or 2 days

Just me, but what I'd do:
... let the stove go cold and pull off the pipes
... check and clean them of any deposits
... inspect for (and clean) ash and creosote at and just above the now-exposed T
... use a mirror to look up the flue from the T to get an idea of deposits towards the top
... if deposits look excessive, either get a pro who likes icy roofs, or try to clean bottom-up, or stop burning 'til a thaw.

The point being, it's not what you know or how fast you learn, but what you might learn and see by pulling things apart and looking inside them. I discovered how my stove actually works by reaching inside it a few days after I bought it (used) and feeling a big pile of ash and a (broken) piece that felt different on one side of the stove from what the corresponding piece felt like on the other side. All I knew then was something didn't seem right... the process from therE was long and frustrating... and expensive!

FIRST STEP: COLD STOVE...
SECOND STEP: GET DIRTY!

 

[DamienBricka]

Personally I just I would just clean the chimney and correct the mis-leveled horiz

I just checked the mid hori

I've never installed a 45 connector in a chimney before. It sounds like it might work. Can't say if it will work. Clearances should be honored regardless and that will take an odd thimble. Personally I just I would just clean the chimney and correct the mis-leveled horiz. pipe for now and see how that works. It could be all that's needed. But that's just my opinion.

I just checked the horizontal pipe it is going upward 1/4" over 18" . I can correct the pitch by reducing the heights of the stove by 3/4".This should give me enough pitch for the pipe. When I am at it I replace all the pipe and this time install them correctly. I also noticed that the pipes were very dirty so tomorrow afternoon I will clean all this and hopefully my problem will be solved. I hope it is something this simple.

I do have another question is this normal for the bottom of a chimney to get this dirty after burning close to a cord of wood.

 

[DamienBricka]

All I knew then was something didn't seem right... the process from therE was long and frustrating... and expensive!

I hope I will be able to avoid the expensive part...................lol......................

Tomorrow when I open everything up I will post pictures for you guys to see my findings.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I do have another question is this normal for the bottom of a chimney to get this quickly after burning close to a cord of wood.

Every setup and every load is different. You're also still learning the stove. I expect you will see more creosote this year than you will next year, and less the year after that, etc.

 

[DamienBricka]

Here are the pictures that I promised yesterday.

One picture one and two to remove the mortar I am bending the flue tube. Is that going to be a problem? If yes to I have to straitened it out or am I going to have to replace it?
Thanks for the input.

 

[begreen]

Can you post a shot of the whole setup, stove included? We need to see the whole picture.

 

[DamienBricka]

Can you post a shot of the whole setup, stove included? We need to see the whole picture.

Here are the pictures you asked for. This setup was approved by the building inspector but from what I read on this site it may be a No No.

 

[begreen]

I'm assuming the floor is concrete, right? I do see one serious violation. Single wall pipe has a minimum clearance to combustibles of 18". Is the plan to put in a proper insulating thimble in the wall? https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/passing_a_chimney

All of the pipe crimps are now pointing toward the stove right? How did the main chimney liner cleaning go?

 

[DamienBricka]

I'm assuming the floor is concrete, right?

Yes the floor is concrete.

I do see one serious violation. Single wall pipe has a minimum clearance to combustibles of 18"

So You are suggesting that I increase the hearth by 12 inches. It will be done.

All of the pipe crimps are now pointing toward the stove right?

Yes they are.

 

[DamienBricka]

How did the main chimney liner cleaning go?

I went on the roof this morning and all the screens were clean. The inside of the chimney was not that bad. I finally decided to buy the sooeater and i will do i thorough cleanup when I get it.

Is the plan to put in a proper insulating thimble in the wall?

I was thinking of using Roxul to insulate but something is telling me that you are not going to like that. So I will install http://www.hartshearth.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=4033.

Thanks for the advice Begreen

 

[EatenByLimestone]

begreen said: ↑ I do see one serious violation. Single wall pipe has a minimum clearance to combustibles of 18" So You are suggesting that I increase the hearth by 12 inches. It will be done.

I think he's probably referring to the shelving beside your T.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I went on the roof this morning and all the screens were clean. The inside of the chimney was not that bad. I finally decided to buy the sooeater and i will do i thorough cleanup when I get it.



I was thinking of using Roxul to insulate but something is telling me that you are not going to like that. So I will install http://www.hartshearth.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=4033.

Thanks for the advice Begreen

Just to give you another option to that:

http://www.dalsinmfg.com/insulflue.html

 

[DamienBricka]

I think he's probably referring to the shelving beside your T.

I saw that but it looks like it is more expensive.

 

[begreen]

I think he's probably referring to the shelving beside your T.

Yes the floor is concrete.



So You are suggesting that I increase the hearth by 12 inches. It will be done.

No, if the floor is concrete the hearth is fine. It's where the horiz. single -wall pipe passes by the wood studs that concerns me. That's definitely less than 18". Read the article in the link I provided.

 

[DamienBricka]

No, if the floor is concrete the hearth is fine. It's where the horiz. single -wall pipe passes by the wood studs that concerns me. That's definitely less than 18". Read the article in the link I provided.

Ok got it that is why I will follow your advice and order and install the following : http://www.hartshearth.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=4033.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Is there 2x framing behind the tile directly behind the stove?

 

[DamienBricka]

Is there 2x framing behind the tile directly behind the stove?

Yes, plus 1/2 cement board and tile. Do I have another problem

 

[begreen]

Good catch Matt. The FW24007 manual I have states 15" clearance from the rear wall. Not sure that is what is there.

Damien, what is the pedestal construction? Does it satisfy the R=.446 insulation requirement?

 

[DamienBricka]

Good catch Matt. The FW24007 manual I have states 15" clearance from the rear wall. Not sure that is what is there.

So I do have to extend the pedestal.

Damien, what is the pedestal construction? Does it satisfy the R=.446 insulation requirement?

The pedestal is made of concrete blocks which are laid on a concrete floor.

Thinking about all this now maybe I should remove the back wall and install a concrete wall. Would that save me money on the thimble. Yes or No.

 

[begreen]

So I do have to extend the pedestal.

Did you follow the manual and do you have 15" from the stove back and the wall?

The pedestal is made of concrete blocks which are laid on a concrete floor.

Thinking about all this now maybe I should remove the back wall and install a concrete wall. Would that save me money on the thimble. Yes or No.

Hard to fault the pedestal construction for non-combustibility. A pure concrete or brick wall would just require extending the thimble. Even if framed it can be done without the expensive thimble if you follow the directions in the article I provided a link to earlier.

 

[DamienBricka]

Did you follow the manual and do you have 15" from the stove back and the wall?

I only have 6 inches. I did not get one until recently from "Fossil". The stove was a floor model when I bought it in 2008 and it did not come with a manual.

Hard to fault that for non-combustibility. A pure concrete or brick wall would just require extending the thimble. Even if framed it can be done without the expensive thimble if you follow the directions in the article I provided a link to earlier.

I am relying on your expertise. If you were in my shoes what would you do?

 

[DamienBricka]

On another thought would an extra 12 inches behind the stove disperse the heat of the stove better.

 

[begreen]

I only have 6 inches. I did not get one until recently from "Fossil". The stove was a floor model when I bought it in 2008 and it did not come with a manual.

I am relying on your expertise. If you were in my shoes what would you do?

The clearance requirements should be on the label on the back of the stove.

Take the tape measure and see how much room there is between the pipe and the wood to the left and right. That will determine which one of the listed options in the article is possible.