Prefered brand / suppliers for 6" Class A Chimney?

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

I'm prety sure I'm going to vent my new Resolute Acclaim with 6" Class A chimney.

I have a masonary chimney with a 10 x 10" flue tile 10.5' above the stove outlet. There is a Heatalator steel firebox in the FP opening. By venting the stove out the back I can go through the back smoke shelf of the heatalator and straight up the chimney. This avoids the whole damper area. I'll still need to seal both openings.

This would basicly use my existing 10.5' brick chimney as a chase for a 16' Class A Chimney.

Parts cost appears to be $700-900 Simpson Duratech or Selkirk Sure-Temp

Bricking an additional 6', and using flexliner seems not to conform to code, as Insp. said once I use Class A to go though the Heatalator unit I'm required to stay with Class A.

Any suggestions, suppliers you like, advise will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike P

In the Great Lakes region

 

[elkimmeg]

Your inspector is correct, once you start with Class A you cannot switch back to single wall pipe thereafter

 

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

Am I correct in thinking I'll get better draft performance from Class A as it is insulated instead of SS double wall?

Mike P

 

[Shane]

Honestly if you were to take two chimneys side by side. One masonry with a properly installed 6" liner, the other an insulated class A. I don't know that you'd see any discernable difference in their performance.

 

[webbie]

Hi -

I'm prety sure I'm going to vent my new Resolute Acclaim with 6" Class A chimney.

I have a masonary chimney with a 10 x 10" flue tile 10.5' above the stove outlet. There is a Heatalator steel firebox in the FP opening. By venting the stove out the back I can go through the back smoke shelf of the heatalator and straight up the chimney. This avoids the whole damper area. I'll still need to seal both openings.

This would basicly use my existing 10.5' brick chimney as a chase for a 16' Class A Chimney.

Parts cost appears to be $700-900 Simpson Duratech or Selkirk Sure-Temp

Bricking an additional 6', and using flexliner seems not to conform to code, as Insp. said once I use Class A to go though the Heatalator unit I'm required to stay with Class A.

Any suggestions, suppliers you like, advise will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike P

In the Great Lakes region

Let me try to clarify some of this.

The rule about "once you start with class A you must continue" relates to class A installations as per the instruction manual. In your situation, it is being run "optionally" because you already have a masonry structure. This is similar to using it for a wall crock or pass-through. In this case you probably could go back to single wall lining...

BUT, why not just use single wall liners for the entire job -preferably rigid, but good flex will do. Why does flex not meet code?

I would do it this way myself, based on your description. I would also not brick up the front of the fireplace or do anything permanent as you may want to service or replace the liner easier.

Wrap the single wall stainless with insulation and you'll be good to go. In fact, if the chimney is interior and/or you are in a warm climate, this may even be optional. If the chimney is already lined and in some kind of reasonable condition, you have a very high safety factor.

You should inspect the following areas carefully:

1. The lintel area of the fireplace and front wall to make certain they did not embed wood framing into the wall too close to the opening.
2. If and when you cut through the damper or firebox area, look around there also to make certain no framing is visible through cracks or otherwise.

If you do see framing, take steps to mitigate the effect of heat on this (heat shields, metal, etc.)

Make certain some sort of cleanout if available since soot will build up in elbo or tee at bottom. You can probably get this with vacuum hose from stove itself depending on distance. In my experience, the acclaim will not build up tar soot, just flyash.

 

[zzr7ky]

I've inspected the chimney/hearth very closely and found no combustables of any kind, steel of masonry only.

I'll go back to the local Engineer and review this with them. At this point bricking up an additional 6feet of hieght to meet the VC manual call out for 16' tall chimney and using good quality (316) rigid liner would be most economical.

Any barnd names to look for in a good SS rigid liner?

Thanks for helping a newbie!,
Mike P

 

[webbie]

I've inspected the chimney/hearth very closely and found no combustables of any kind, steel of masonry only.

I'll go back to the local Engineer and review this with them. At this point bricking up an additional 6feet of hieght to meet the VC manual call out for 16' tall chimney and using good quality (316) rigid liner would be most economical.

Any barnd names to look for in a good SS rigid liner?

Thanks for helping a newbie!,
Mike P

I like Heat-Fab

BTW, if you want to make the chimney look good at the top and also extend it a certain height without masonry, look at http://www.extendaflue.com (I'm the inventor).