Have some touch-up to on the stove front and in the combustion chamber. I am wondering which paint is better to use? I don't want to put effort into surface prep only to have to re-do. Other recommendations welcome...
Pro and Con - Meeco Stove Paint vs. High Temp. Automotive Paint?
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The best product to use is StoveBright. Unlike Meeco -- StoveBright manufactures the paint. Have a look at the very helpful YouTube channel for Stove Bright. http://www.youtube.com/user/MrStoveBright.
pell it
Feeling the Heat
I tried automotive"flame proof" header paint and it lasted about three fires before it started peeling. (in the burn chamber)
Bioburner
Moderator
I used stovebright for the Elena to change it to the forest green. It gets a lot of heat cycles and is not the worse for wear after now having it for 1 year plus a month. Prep work will pay off. I after light sanding, washed with dish soap then a wipe down with alcohol on a lint free cloth.
I should have been a bit clearer. Stove Bright is good to 1200 degrees F for short periods. It is really meant for the exterior of stoves and fireboxes where temps are lower than 900F. I do not know of any paint that would hold up to interior firebox temps. If you are looking to renew the exterior of your stove with black or upgrade to one of the other 30+ colors -- Stove Bright is the ticket.
So what paint/coating would have been used on the burn chamber of the Elena? Ash pan, flame trap and interior sides are coated/painted.
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Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
Thanks Bob - Never thought to do a search here but I should have!
Found the info on-line that Don posted on the VHT paint - the trick seems to be it needs to be cured at specific temperatures. http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/
Also found a Xtreme Temperature Coating by KBS - does not recommend direct contact with flame. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/XTC.html
Another option - Thurmalox heat resistant high temperature paint also does not recommend direct contact http://www.heat-resistant-paint.com/HighTemperaturePaint.aspx
Stove Bright - will withstand direct flame to 1200F. If paint fails, purportedly due to substrate material... Stove Bright seems to be the most suitable.
Thanks for the input and getting me motivated to find the right paint...
Found the info on-line that Don posted on the VHT paint - the trick seems to be it needs to be cured at specific temperatures. http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/
Also found a Xtreme Temperature Coating by KBS - does not recommend direct contact with flame. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/XTC.html
Another option - Thurmalox heat resistant high temperature paint also does not recommend direct contact http://www.heat-resistant-paint.com/HighTemperaturePaint.aspx
Stove Bright - will withstand direct flame to 1200F. If paint fails, purportedly due to substrate material... Stove Bright seems to be the most suitable.
Thanks for the input and getting me motivated to find the right paint...
X2 Stove Bright also matches the colors that manufacturer's use for their stove. Therefore much better for touchups.
For the burn chamber only, I use VHT Flame Proof Flat Black. It holds up better in there. Remember to clean with Acetone first so the paint will stick!
tiger
Feeling the Heat
Cool! How many cans to do a stove? I still want to turn the old Grizzly wood insert, now out on the patio, into a "chiminea" of sorts and the furniture out there is Forest Green and I was going to try the automotive paint shops for hi-temp.
batchman
Burning Hunk
Thanks for that tip - I've been having trouble with Stove Bright sticking on anything other than steel pipe. On the galvi, aluminum and pvc I've tried it does cover but scratches with very little provocation on other than the steel. Of course I've only been using alcohol to prep - I'll give the acetone a try.
I can't say for sure but I've consumed two cans just painting a bracket, my OAK and a couple of thimbles. Took me a few coats to cover. Makes me wish my ol' fave Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy was good for high temp.
Cheers,
- Jeff
I use VHT flame proof flat black for a primer coat. Lot easier!
(broken link removed to http://forrestpaint.com/stove-bright/stove-bright-user-guide/)
Suggest toluene or acetone to clean after sanding, surface prep. Curing is also an important part of the process. Both the VHT flameproof and stove bright have instructions for curing.
Suggest toluene or acetone to clean after sanding, surface prep. Curing is also an important part of the process. Both the VHT flameproof and stove bright have instructions for curing.
Galvanized requires a water based paint. You can get away with water based primer and then a top coat of the alkali paints, but you need water based to start. The galvanization prevents rust with a thin layer of oxidation. The oxidation reacts chemically with the alkali paints and they wont stick. That is roughly what happens with aluminum too. Though, if I recall, you can use an epoxy primer on it with good results too.
tiger
Feeling the Heat
Well, I ordered four cans, so maybe I'll report back on coverage. I'm used to painting bicycle frames, huge amount of wastage, but stoves are big flat surfaces so a high % of the paint should end up on the stove.
Picked up two cans of VHT Flame Proof flat black for flame traps and ash pans but it will be a while before I get to that... I haven't found any one local who carries stove bright...
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