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I’d have to get back on top of the roof to verify again, but believe the ID was 6 3/4” x 6 3/4” exact and the clay is pretty damn thick making the OD just over 8” If I remember correctly.

So from the reply’s I’m receiving its being suggested to keep going at it with this stove and test it some more with different wood, dryer wood? I got so fed up with it, being told by someone whom installs stoves and cleans chimneys for a living that the stove was malfunctioning that I already disconnected the pipe and took it off the slab and have it in the garage ready to roll
Unfortunately a lot of chimney sweeps know very very little about any 1 stove. Many just have a general knowledge and give poor advice when dealing with modern stoves. We get calls pretty often where the sweep told them something way different than we told them when we installed it.
 
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Unfortunately a lot of chimney sweeps know very very little about any 1 stove. Many just have a general knowledge and give poor advice when dealing with modern stoves. We get calls pretty often where the sweep told them something way different than we told them when we installed it.

Whilst waiting on some replies for my own thread I did another search and found a 3 page thread on the Madison (summers heat) stove with similar problems. If and when the stove is able to stay lit with a fire, the stove takes off a lot of the time and most have trouble turning the damper down, saying they have a lack of control over the stove, the damper doesn’t seem to do much for them and over firing is a real concern with this stove. This makes me more weary of the stove I purchased, but are all the newer EPA stoves like this? I’m still on the fence about returning it and getting something different, but if I did choose that option would the Napoleon (1400ml or independence 1450) brand stove be a good option? Comparible in size and heating power to the summers heat / Madison (what’s advertised)
 
I’m not a fan of Napoleon stoves. If I was looking for a rock solid stove on a budget it would be an Enerzone from SBI.
 
Just a thought, but my wet wood that is slated for next winter tests at 18% with my moisture meter till I fresh split it then its at 32%. So you need to test on a fresh split.
 
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Just wanted to update on this thread, to everyone that was helpful and chimed in. I did return the stove and after a lot of homework and going through clearances and reviews I bought a new Englander 30-NC. Even though the summers heat is manufactured by Englander, the quality difference seems to be very apparent. Its a nice looking stove, massive firebox (most excited to be able to use both N/S and E/W loading) and seems to be better built. ==c Already much happier and have not even burned it inside yet, only a short burn to get the stove hot outside to cure the paint a little. Over-nighted the larger blower and side heat shields already as well.
 

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The odds are that the stove was fine. Modern stoves need proper draft and dry wood to function well. SummerHeat is the same stove mfg. just different trim.
 
NC 30 or for that matter any current stove thrives best at 12-15 % moisture content. Catalytic stoves might be a bit more forgiving on that. Ran a 30 for 7 years sold that home stove went with. New 30 going in current place. Just got to finish the hearth pad. have a few high spots to grind out yet to put tile on.
At 50 deg. out side and a block flue, it takes quite a bit to establish a good draft. got to get that block flue warmed up.
Be aware that the 30 has 4 air intakes- main damper controlled, secondary uncontrolled, and 2 small ones up front behind where the front legs go that feed the airwash for the glass.
 
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