Problem with 1999 Quad CB 1200 insert

Don2222

Minister of Fire
Feb 1, 2010
8,487
Salem NH
I don't think they need to remove it. put a new CAP in and try it first
True but I do recommend pulling out for a visual check to assure the auger is OK. If I did not pull this one, I would have never found this pellet bag stuck in the auger! See pic above !!!
 

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD
It could be catching because it is running backwards. The bottom of the auger spring can catch on the bottom of the hopper feed tube.
I never thought of that! That certainly makes sense tho, I assume (I know, never assume) that the auger should turn clockwise as you are facing the stove, correct? I would like to try the CAP and see if takes care of the problem before I go any further......another silly question, how do I get the capacitor? Is is a stand alone item or do I need buy some kind of wiring harness? Would I need to remove the motor to replace the capacitor? Or would I need to buy a motor, assuming that is all part of it? If you could point me in the right direction as far as finding the part.....your help is much appreciated!
 

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD
When I remove the auger, I take out the 2 or 4 screws that hold the feed motor. The old motors had Alan head screws and the new motors have Phillip head screws, then I remove the 2 nuts that hold the bracket on the auger tube and pull the motor & spring auger out in one piece after pulling off the right side bracket that holds the hi limit switch. There is not a lot of room and you may have to twist it back and forth so the spring auger does not get stuck. Also you have to bail out all the pellets first which is a PITA because the easiest way is to take the top of the stove off by removing approx 10 screws that hold it on!
Then when you have the whole auger and motor assembly out of the stove after unplugging the molex connector to the motor, you can loosen the 2 Alan head collar set screws to pull the motor off the spring auger. I always wire wheel the spring auger clean and the spray it with dry moly to keep the pellets sticking. :)
I had part of a pellet bag stuck in my Auger so had to pull it out to get the bag out! See pic!!!
Is that what you did?
Thanks Don2222! I hope I don't get to that point.....but if I do, now I know :)
I've read people's comments about finding the darnedest things stuck in there....I don't believe the auger has ever been removed....the folks had it installed back in 1999. They're both gone now but but I don't recall them ever having a problem with it....it sure can put out the heat!
Thanks for your input....much appreciated!
 

Ssyko

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2017
2,612
Lorraine NY

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD
This is the cap/harness

Hey Ssyko....while I'm waiting for the part to get here, I do have a couple of questions.....on the male end of the new harness it appears it has 2 prongs that plug into the female of the existing wiring ( unless there are three and you just can't see it in the picture) Does it matter that it will be plugging into a connector meant for three prongs? You're probably rolling your eyes right now, LOL. As you can tell, I know nothing about electricity or capacitors....just trying to understand before it gets here. ...also, the picture I posted here is just something that I'm wondering what it is.....is this the way it was originally or do you think something was done over the years?
The info on the new harness says it's approximately 13 inches long....do I just tuck all that extra somewhere?
Thanks~ Ellie ~
 

Attachments

Ssyko

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2017
2,612
Lorraine NY
on the male end of the new harness it appears it has 2 prongs that plug into the female of the existing wiring ( unless there are three and you just can't see it in the picture) Does it matter that it will be plugging into a connector meant for three prongs? You're probably rolling your eyes right now, LOL. As you can tell, I know nothing about electricity or capacitors....just trying to understand before it gets here.
No the Molex plug should plug right into your original harness, there should be instructions with the new one. I don't do the extentions w/cap anymore I just replace the cap itself.


also, the picture I posted here is just something that I'm wondering what it is.....is this the way it was originally or do you think something was done over the years?
Yes that's the way all the quads are there is actually 2 motors 1 on top of the other and wired in series. No it all look normal to me
 

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD
No the Molex plug should plug right into your original harness, there should be instructions with the new one. I don't do the extentions w/cap anymore I just replace the cap itself.




Yes that's the way all the quads are there is actually 2 motors 1 on top of the other and wired in series. No it all look normal to me
Thanks Ssyko....I didn't know what normal looked like :)
I thought I should remove the auger and check it, since it's 20 yrs old and I don't believe its ever been out. After my folks passed away the house was rented for about 6 yrs ...... after seeing the other things they did to this place, not sure about the stove. Couple that with my misdeeds, that I was fortunate enough to learn about on this forum, ie, emptying bags of pellets in the hopper, leaving pellets in the hopper over the summer....yes, I was guilty of all those.
I did remove the 7/16 nuts and tried to pull the auger. No go. I removed the allen head screws and was able to move the motor around but I cannot get the bracket to release.....its like the gasket is stuck to both pieces of metal it's sandwiched between and it's all stuck together. I didn't want to try to pry things apart without checking with you to see if it's something I should do.....or just put it back together.
Your thoughts on this please and thank you!
 

Ssyko

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2017
2,612
Lorraine NY
Its easier to pull the auger as an assembly, so you will need to empty the hopper. Try to get as many pellets out of the feed tube as you can, when the spring slides out it brings pellets with it and will make a mess. What seams luke the gasket is the set screw that holds the motor shaft on the auger spring. Its a pita to remove in the stove, but it can be done.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lekcombs

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD
Its easier to pull the auger as an assembly, so you will need to empty the hopper. Try to get as many pellets out of the feed tube as you can, when the spring slides out it brings pellets with it and will make a mess. What seams luke the gasket is the set screw that holds the motor shaft on the auger spring. Its a pita to remove in the stove, but it can be done.
I was able to get it out, it wasn't as stuck to the bracket as I thought it was.....I was able to get all the pellets out before so....no mess! I cleaned up the auger as well as bracket, etc., there didn't seem to be a lot of oil anywhere, so that's good...... mine doesn't look look like the exploded parts view. It shows a feed bearing that appears to be a smaller nylon(?) piece and nothing like what mine looks like...attaching a pic for you to see, is that dark block below the collar set the same thing?.....also, is there any place I should be putting a drop oil? Thanks Ssysko!
 

Attachments

Ssyko

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2017
2,612
Lorraine NY
I will have to look on mine I don’t remeber a big block on any I’ve worked on but they were much newer than ours. I dont oil the small motors due to the amount of dust and debris that can collect on them making more clean op after oil migration.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Lekcombs

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD
I will have to look on mine I don’t remeber a big block on any I’ve worked on but they were much newer than ours. I dont oil the small motors due to the amount of dust and debris that can collect on them making more clean op after oil migration.
Thanks Ssysko...... I think this is all the original stuff and I don't have the original parts list/pics from when it was installed. I just thought it was interesting. I'm going to put in back in and wait for the capacitor to get here tomorrow ....will cross my fingers that it takes care of my issue. If not, I presume I would need to replace the feed motor. I'll cross that bridge if/when I get to it. I really appreciate this forum, I've learned a lot about this stove and how it works, things to do and things to not do. Thanks you very much!
~Ellie~
 

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD
I will have to look on mine I don’t remeber a big block on any I’ve worked on but they were much newer than ours. I dont oil the small motors due to the amount of dust and debris that can collect on them making more clean op after oil migration.
As luck would have it....I dropped one of those allen head screws as I was attaching the feed motor <> I'm not sure where it went.... I tried to fish it out with a telescoping magnet but couldn't find anything...could never see it, just heard it hit and then silence. Is that something I need to find and get out or can I just replace it? I already ran to the hardware store and picked up a couple just in case....it went all the way to the bottom (wherever that is) and it's not in the hopper.....just don't want to mess with it if I don't have to, I think Id have to remove a side panel?
 

Ssyko

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2017
2,612
Lorraine NY
no it probably went down the back side of the firebox and is in the corner of the pedestal youll be ok with replacment. and I looked at my auger and it has a block like yours only mine is blue. I have had that thing totally tore down and i never registered that it was there lol
 

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD
no it probably went down the back side of the firebox and is in the corner of the pedestal youll be ok with replacment. and I looked at my auger and it has a block like yours only mine is blue. I have had that thing totally tore down and i never registered that it was there lol
HaHaHa! At least I know someone else has one just like it :).... I'm pretty excited to get that capacitor tomorrow and see if that takes care of it.....if the auger still reverses, I assume a new motor is in order. If it does, at least it was worth it to try a $20 part first. Again, thanks for the help and I'll report back when I see how it goes. :)
 

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD
no it probably went down the back side of the firebox and is in the corner of the pedestal youll be ok with replacment. and I looked at my auger and it has a block like yours only mine is blue. I have had that thing totally tore down and i never registered that it was there lol
Hey Ssysko....quick question about that capacitor harness. Do the colors of the wires matter? I plugged it in and this is what it looks like. On the website it states it was for the Quad 1200 FS and Contour....mine is a 1200 insert, does that matter? No info came with it. I don't want to fire it without double checking.....Thanks!
 

Attachments

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD
you should be good, molex connectors wont let you plug it in the other way.
Okay....something is funky here. When I placed the capacitor wiring absolutely no pellets dropped, I watched the collar set and the auger turned counter clockwise, barely, one time. I took it back off, plugged the original molex back together, ran it again and pellets dropped, got a good fire and then it started reversing again and no pellets, fire dies. When I compare the picture on the website to what I got, it's like the ends are reversed. the molex closest to the motor has three prongs and and the new molex end that fits in there only has two holes that have metal in them...which leaves the red wire from the motor with no continuity? I hope you can tell what I'm talking about from the pictures. Like I said before, I don't know electricity or how to explain it but this just doesn't seem right....especially since the molex ends are reversed .from what the website shows....the male end should be female and female end male. Sorry for this cluster but I'm kind of at my wits end with this darn stove! Thanks....look forward to your thoughts ~Ellie~
 

Attachments

Ssyko

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2017
2,612
Lorraine NY
Does your old molex still have the original capacitor still attached. If it does, cut it off as close to the cap as possible. I have had stoves that i had to put the new cap where the old one was. So leave as much leg of the cap as you can. We will cross that bridge when we have to. But for now just make sure the old cap is removed and try the stove again.
 

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD
Does your old molex still have the original capacitor still attached. If it does, cut it off as close to the cap as possible. I have had stoves that i had to put the new cap where the old one was. So leave as much leg of the cap as you can. We will cross that bridge when we have to. But for now just make sure the old cap is removed and try the stove again.
I don't see a cap at all...anywhere. This is a 1999 CB1200 insert....did they have a cap on them back then? If there was one, it would be close to the motor, correct? I can see nothing, or any indication there ever was one, on any of the visible wires
 

Ssyko

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2017
2,612
Lorraine NY
mine is a 2000. so its the same as yours. our vintage had the capacitor inside the control box (see pic). you need to clip 1 leg of that cap(green), yellow dot or red dot. don't cut the wires just the little tin leg on either end of the cap itself.

cb1200cap.jpg
 

Ssyko

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2017
2,612
Lorraine NY
it's not bad open up rt door and hopper. pull your control box(unplug stove first) pull 4 screws that hold the lower box in place. then gently pull the box down out of the hole and turn over and clip the wire then reinstall
 

Lekcombs

New Member
Oct 12, 2019
35
Black Hills SD
it's not bad open up rt door and hopper. pull your control box(unplug stove first) pull 4 screws that hold the lower box in place. then gently pull the box down out of the hole and turn over and clip the wire then reinstall
I honestly don't think I'm comfortable doing that, my lack of knowledge about how these work bothers me. Do you feel a new feed motor would solve the problem? At this point I am certainly willing to do that. It appears I would only need the motor and wiring harness w/capacitor that comes with it. Frankly, I'm burned out, tired .... and time is getting short as I have family coming next month. I'd like to think I'm smart enough to know when I'm in over my head.
 

Ssyko

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2017
2,612
Lorraine NY
well it wont do a thing to change the motor if that cap isn't clipped. (short education about capacitors, when they go bad, they go bad to ground meaning they short out and adding a new cap into that circuit will do nothing) so if you can't do it. it will take a quad tech to fix it for you. I'm sure we can walk you through it. I can do Phone support to if you need it. let me know :cool: