Problems with new Jotul C550

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That makes sense and I'll work on incorporating that more to make the insert work better and heat up. I do shut it down at night before going to sleep to about 3/4 shut. Sometimes, it can stand being completely shut off, but not very often. Let's see what happens with your advice and guidance. This is helpful to fine tune it more. Thanks!

A pic that shows what my old insert looked like (not mine) is attached. I can't remember the firebox size.
 

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I wouldn't be surprised if the old insert had 50-100% more wood capacity also. Some of them were cavernous beasts.
 
I wouldn't be surprised if the old insert had 50-100% more wood capacity also. Some of them were cavernous beasts.

That it was! One of the good points about this new one is that I am using AT LEAST 1/3 as much wood to heat, if not more. This is the first real season, so I am know more once it is over, but good guestimation is I burn way way less wood.
 
Do you have a stovetop thermometer? Definitely helps understand what is going on. As begreen said, the heat really starts to pump as you turn the air down. The key is not smoldering, but getting that air closed down. I find the sweetspot for me is about a quarter closed. Once I know the flames won't die, I close it a quarter. The heat really starts to build. Should only take 20 minutes or so then i can close halfway. Maybe another 10 minutes and close 3/4 to 7/8. You definitely should not be leaving the door open for an hour. That is like having an open fireplace, it is sucking cool air into the firebox and any heat up the chimney. You want to keep the heat inside the firebox.
 
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I've got the 550 also, and I completely agree with everything begreen and rkofler said. You need to find the sweet spot of the stove. And that varies each time you burn depending on wood type, wood moisture, and load size. A cheap magnetic thermometer really helps you zone into the sweet spot.

I never keep my air open all the way. Maybe the first 10 minutes of a new fire. After that I close it half way, and then ten minutes later I'm down to about a 1/4 open. That's when the secondaries really kick in and the temps rise quickly.

I'm using this stove to heat a 1850 SF space and it's doing a pretty good job of keeping things 68-71. I haven't turned on the oil heat yet this year, so I'm happy. I hope you figure out the stove and can be happy with it too. Good luck.
 
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Thanks rkofler and Ansky. I do have a thermometer that the sales guy gave to me, but the factory rep said I really didn't need it. There is no good place to put it since everything is hidden and also, according to rep, give a consistent efficient reading.

I just got back in from an evening out, leaving around 6 or so, house was 70, came back a bit after 10 and house was down to 66 with coals. The damper was probably 3/4 closed. I have re lit the fire and am doing what you all suggested as to not having the door cracked for longer than a few minutes to get flames going, and closing off the damper to about 1/3. Fan just came back on after maybe a half hour or so. That means it is heating up much quicker. I am going to shut it down some more to somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4.

Agree about finding the sweet spot, and that relates to my first comment today that this unit is finicky/high maintenance and one has to really micro manage it.

Thanks again to begreen, rkofler, and Ansky for the fine tuning advice today and this evening. That makes more sense now and I am pretty sure the difference is being made already.
 
Stovetop thermometer goes into the slot the air comes out of. Turned mine upside down, think it makes it easier to read.
 
Stovetop thermometer goes into the slot the air comes out of. Turned mine upside down, think it makes it easier to read.

Pic would help.

Suggestions about damper settings appear to be helping. In an hour and a half, house temp quickly rose from 66 to 70. That seems to be the ticket. Will keep you posted if issues continue or this ends up not being the solution.
 
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Yea! Sounds like good progress.
 
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Thanks rkofler and Ansky. I do have a thermometer that the sales guy gave to me, but the factory rep said I really didn't need it. There is no good place to put it since everything is hidden and also, according to rep, give a consistent efficient reading.

I just got back in from an evening out, leaving around 6 or so, house was 70, came back a bit after 10 and house was down to 66 with coals. The damper was probably 3/4 closed. I have re lit the fire and am doing what you all suggested as to not having the door cracked for longer than a few minutes to get flames going, and closing off the damper to about 1/3. Fan just came back on after maybe a half hour or so. That means it is heating up much quicker. I am going to shut it down some more to somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4.

Agree about finding the sweet spot, and that relates to my first comment today that this unit is finicky/high maintenance and one has to really micro manage it.

Thanks again to begreen, rkofler, and Ansky for the fine tuning advice today and this evening. That makes more sense now and I am pretty sure the difference is being made already.

Just an observation, did you leave with a good fire going and the blower running? To have the blower go out in that time span with a fire going seems odd...
 
Just an observation, did you leave with a good fire going and the blower running? To have the blower go out in that time span with a fire going seems odd...

I did not have it packed tight before I left, and fan/blower was running. The ash I am burning right now is pretty old and well dried out. That can account for the fire burning down quickly and insert cooling down so that the fan went off.

As an aside, I think the house was up to 76 in the middle of the night when I woke up for a minute and happened to check (unless I was dreaming). This morning around 5, house temp was 66, and within a half hour after re stoking, house was back up to 70. But that's where it has stayed for the most part until now bouncing back and forth between 71-72. Outside temp has climbed to 21. I can live with this (so far) and am more pleased with results and heat output.
 
Pic would help.

Suggestions about damper settings appear to be helping. In an hour and a half, house temp quickly rose from 66 to 70. That seems to be the ticket. Will keep you posted if issues continue or this ends up not being the solution.
 

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Do not be shy about letting it get hot!! 750 in this stove is just fine, trust me. If you get it up to 750 I guarantee your house will be 75 degrees.

750, huh? On my magnetic thermometer, 750 is in the red "danger" zone. But I never really worry about it too much since it's so easy to hit 700 in this stove. This stove seems to like it hot. If the secondaries are doing their thing, it's almost guaranteed to be 700. But anymore than that I get a little nervous. What would you say is the point where this stove is at it's limit?
 
Dumb question Rk...do you just pick up the thermometer off the stove top to read it, then put it back? If it is that hot, I am not sure I would want to be touching any part of the insert itself.

All the hints and suggestions about damper settings for starting the fire and all the way through the burn appear to be the thing that did the trick. Even with throwing some not so great wood in, the unit is heating up well and the house is warmer. Our low last night and early this morning when I left was 4, and the house was 71 when I woke up after a night's burn. Just kicked up the coals, stocked it full of new wood for the day, and now starting the fire back up again for the evening.
 
750, huh? On my magnetic thermometer, 750 is in the red "danger" zone. But I never really worry about it too much since it's so easy to hit 700 in this stove. This stove seems to like it hot. If the secondaries are doing their thing, it's almost guaranteed to be 700. But anymore than that I get a little nervous. What would you say is the point where this stove is at it's limit?

The temp range is for smoke pipe surface temp not stove top temps.
 
The temp range is for smoke pipe surface temp not stove top temps.
I'm not sure about that. My thermometer is a "inferno stovetop meter". When i was buying it, I did see stove pipe units as well, but mine is a stove top tool. And the "too hot" zone starts at 650. Supposedly 400-650 is the "best zone". But I feel my stove is running at peak efficiency around 700.

I also don't think these magnetic meters are all that accurate...I use it as more of a guide than anything specific.
 
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Dumb question Rk...do you just pick up the thermometer off the stove top to read it, then put it back? If it is that hot, I am not sure I would want to be touching any part of the insert itself.

All the hints and suggestions about damper settings for starting the fire and all the way through the burn appear to be the thing that did the trick. Even with throwing some not so great wood in, the unit is heating up well and the house is warmer. Our low last night and early this morning when I left was 4, and the house was 71 when I woke up after a night's burn. Just kicked up the coals, stocked it full of new wood for the day, and now starting the fire back up again for the evening.

Use a flashlight to see the thermometer. I have a small rubber one that is always by the stove. Use it to move the air control level too when it is hot. I placed the thermometer upside down, I think it's easier to read. You don't need an exact reading, just an idea.
 
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750, huh? On my magnetic thermometer, 750 is in the red "danger" zone. But I never really worry about it too much since it's so easy to hit 700 in this stove. This stove seems to like it hot. If the secondaries are doing their thing, it's almost guaranteed to be 700. But anymore than that I get a little nervous. What would you say is the point where this stove is at it's limit?
If I let the stove get really hot I make sure to crank the fan. Cools the stove, and of course, heats the house!
 
I've got the 550 also, and I completely agree with everything begreen and rkofler said. You need to find the sweet spot of the stove. And that varies each time you burn depending on wood type, wood moisture, and load size. A cheap magnetic thermometer really helps you zone into the sweet spot.

I never keep my air open all the way. Maybe the first 10 minutes of a new fire. After that I close it half way, and then ten minutes later I'm down to about a 1/4 open. That's when the secondaries really kick in and the temps rise quickly.

I'm using this stove to heat a 1850 SF space and it's doing a pretty good job of keeping things 68-71. I haven't turned on the oil heat yet this year, so I'm happy. I hope you figure out the stove and can be happy with it too. Good luck.

My experience with my Rockland matches Ansky's exactly.
Heating 2000 sq ft to 70-72.
The Rockland is a great insert but it took me 2 years and 3 year seasoned wood to really make it sing.
Stick with it.
 
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Use a flashlight to see the thermometer. I have a small rubber one that is always by the stove. Use it to move the air control level too when it is hot. I placed the thermometer upside down, I think it's easier to read. You don't need an exact reading, just an idea.

OK. Thanks!
 
A2, Curious to see how things are going?
 
A2, Curious to see how things are going?

Thanks for checking in and asking. It is going OK, overall. It keeps my house around 68-70, but not much above that. Given the bitter temps here in Michigan for this month, I say it is what can be expected. Amount of wood use is fine and I am about 2/3-3/4 through full cord I brought into my garage back in June. I attribute that to the extreme weather. The unit is working hard. I still work to find the sweet spot for dampening down the amount of air flow to the fire. I think I have a faulty thermometer because it never really shows above 300+ no matter how hot the unit gets. Consequently, I just don't really use it.
 
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