Profile 20 extremely sensitive to outside winds...
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SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
When was the last time you cleaned that horizontal run that goes outside and did you also clean that termination cap's screen at the same time?
That is a delayed automatic ignition caused by lack of air flow past the igniter and into the pellet pile.
That is a delayed automatic ignition caused by lack of air flow past the igniter and into the pellet pile.
checkthisout
Feeling the Heat
If your venting is clear that only leaves one other option. You have a bad gasket that's causing a suction leak.
It's hard to tell but it looks like there is smoke coming into room or at least it looks like smoke in the flashlight beam in the video there.
It's hard to tell but it looks like there is smoke coming into room or at least it looks like smoke in the flashlight beam in the video there.
There is definitely smoke coming out. There isn't enough negative pressure inside the stove at startup. That is why we suspected a blockage on the exhaust side , or a poorly functioning fan.
The amount of pellets are probably due to the slow starting, (it was from the ignitor).
The amount of pellets are probably due to the slow starting, (it was from the ignitor).
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
You can add the following to the list, if your stove has a damper is is closed down a bit to much or there is something in the air intake.
You could also have a bad ash pan door gasket or door gasket.
You also could have a bad igniter.
But the number one likely cause is ash in the system somewhere.
You could also have a bad ash pan door gasket or door gasket.
You also could have a bad igniter.
But the number one likely cause is ash in the system somewhere.
Stovenson, Smokey, Beetleman:
On one of these threads a few months back discussed drilling two 1 inch holes (2.54 mms for Beetleman!) in the back of the firewall to get access to the smoke channels for cleaning. The 'fix' mentioned was then to re-plug the holes with a 1" metal electrical plug -- like one would use to in an electrical distribution panel. The problem is that I don't recal the stove make / model discussed --- and I can't find the thread! Does anyone recall that thread? Were those comments perhaps for a Profile 20 WhitField stove?
It does sound like Mr. Beetleman has some clogged flow channels behind the firewall in his stove - and there is no easy way to clean 'em. The diagram Stovenson posted certianly looks like the 5" x 5" clean out doors I mentioned earlier - although on the Profile 30 they are below the fire brick not behind the brick -- as Stovenson also mentioned.
Take care
RonB
On one of these threads a few months back discussed drilling two 1 inch holes (2.54 mms for Beetleman!) in the back of the firewall to get access to the smoke channels for cleaning. The 'fix' mentioned was then to re-plug the holes with a 1" metal electrical plug -- like one would use to in an electrical distribution panel. The problem is that I don't recal the stove make / model discussed --- and I can't find the thread! Does anyone recall that thread? Were those comments perhaps for a Profile 20 WhitField stove?
It does sound like Mr. Beetleman has some clogged flow channels behind the firewall in his stove - and there is no easy way to clean 'em. The diagram Stovenson posted certianly looks like the 5" x 5" clean out doors I mentioned earlier - although on the Profile 30 they are below the fire brick not behind the brick -- as Stovenson also mentioned.
Take care
RonB
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
With a good strong shop vacuum attached to the venting and vigorous thumping of the back wall (without any fake brick panels)one should be able to get any such areas cleaned.
It is also possible to remove the combustion blower and go back through into those areas with a small brush on a flexible shaft and get to them for the purpose of loosening up any crud.
One could use a small tube attached to a vacuum to enter from the combustion blower cavity or even from the top of fire box on each side of the heat exchanger.
RonB,
I just did a search and couldn't find such a post, there was one in reference to St Croix stoves.
It is also possible to remove the combustion blower and go back through into those areas with a small brush on a flexible shaft and get to them for the purpose of loosening up any crud.
One could use a small tube attached to a vacuum to enter from the combustion blower cavity or even from the top of fire box on each side of the heat exchanger.
RonB,
I just did a search and couldn't find such a post, there was one in reference to St Croix stoves.
summit
Minister of Fire
do you have an OAK on this unit? I didn't see on in the photos. Have you changed anything in the house? insulation, windows, doors, siding, roof? If an OAK isn't in there, in certain situations, it can lead to issues. Also make sure the POF (proof of fire) and/or vaccum switches are operation constantly, sometimes they wear out.
checkthisout
Feeling the Heat
Has the venting been physically checked for freeflow?
I wonder if a stove that old can have the inner liner of the pipe collapse?
I wonder if a stove that old can have the inner liner of the pipe collapse?
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Checkthisout said:
According to the OP the venting has worked fine for the last two years and from the pictures looks just fine.
Summit,
Did you notice the black coloration on the termination cap in the pictures of the outside portion of the venting?
I have run a chimney brush through the whole thing, and lef blower...
It was just installed here 2 winters ago...
It was just installed here 2 winters ago...
checkthisout
Feeling the Heat
summit
Minister of Fire
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
summit said:
I'm a firm believer in OAKs for exactly the reason you were asking the OP about house modifications, not to mention the addition of any power vented things such as a new super duper dryer or finally fixing that flapper on the stove vent so it works, etc ... .
even with OAK the profile is a "path of least resistance" for combustion air set-up. you'd have to block off a secondary air intake hole a couple of inches in from the air intake pipe to even attempt to make it pure outside air.....and the stove was not built for that. i also think that the 'air wash' for the profile is an opening along the top piece of the window glass that air gets sucked into...so sometimes your gaskets are ok, and there is a restriction, you can get a bit of smoke out the front glass, especially during start-up when the pressure change occurs.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Hey Delta-T I gave the OP another way to get to those channels.
As for the OAK if he has tightened up his house that slug of outside air coming in will take care of that in a heartbeat.
As for the OAK if he has tightened up his house that slug of outside air coming in will take care of that in a heartbeat.
Delta T, I hope you are right. I'll post a picture of the firewall with the brick removed. I hope you can see something...
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
In this picture http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w262/MrBeetleman/SDC14877.jpg right above that screw near the heat exchanger tubing is an entrance into one of the channels bet there is an entrance on the other side as well.
I have gotten a bottle brush down both the smaller left opening and the larger right hand one.
I still think it is the fan. I can feel cold air pouring in through both of these holes when the door is open, so I doubt it is a blockage...
I still think it is the fan. I can feel cold air pouring in through both of these holes when the door is open, so I doubt it is a blockage...
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
If your combustion fan blades are clean and there is nothing between the motor mounting plate and the impeller then get a new blower.
those be the very inconvenient access ports there. Whitfield made a super sturdy "bottle brush" just for those things. I'm a fan of a metal coat hanger to jam down there and flick around.
Smokey- you be correct that if indeed he has tightened things up adding some access to outside air never hurts....just be aware that if the stove is not running, and its cold outside, you'll get a draft from the intake that dumps into the room through the other hole in the intake pipe (about 3"-4" in on the pipe, facing down).
Smokey- you be correct that if indeed he has tightened things up adding some access to outside air never hurts....just be aware that if the stove is not running, and its cold outside, you'll get a draft from the intake that dumps into the room through the other hole in the intake pipe (about 3"-4" in on the pipe, facing down).
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
I'd want to also do a reaming job from the combustion blower as I'd worry about just pack the paths to the combustion blower.
Delts-T, I understand about the lack of true 100% outside air handling on a number of stoves. You also get a draft from any stove running on inside air whenever it is burning and likely when it isn't.
Delts-T, I understand about the lack of true 100% outside air handling on a number of stoves. You also get a draft from any stove running on inside air whenever it is burning and likely when it isn't.
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