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Thus far, my stove is running like a Swiss watch, but it has only been a short while. What remains to be seen is if my chronic cat plugging issue has been resolved. I think it will since i only seem to need to move the damper between 0-20%. No high draft settings to entrain dust. At the end of a burn, I also rake the ash into the bin before loading more wood. This should also help minimize entrainment.
I think what also stirs up dust is when the wood pops. Sassafras, Black Cherry and White Oak are rather "poppy" and may get dust airborne, to float up to the cat. If plugging turns out to be an issue, I would try adding a couple pipe dampers. Very simple to install, to see what differences they might make in plugging, burn time, etc...and easily reversible.
 
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While the vinegar bath might have helped, it's fixing the symptom and not the root of the issue. Your chimney has too much draft for your stove. In order to fix the plugging cat issue in its entirety you must reduce draft. Obviously Bholler wasn't using technical terms when he said ash would get sucked into the cat. Obviously the chimney is not a blower and cannot suck in anything, however we don't always speak in technical terms, and you clearly understood the message he was trying to convey. I understand that you believe that you are operating the stove perfectly for your needs, however you are not operating the stove as the manufacturer intended or in the most efficient manner for heating your home. Maybe you should try some of the suggestions on this message board, you never know, you might get your stove dialed in better than you thought possible.
 
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When you close the damper, you reduce the air flow which reduces the velocity, which reduces entrainment of particulate matter (ash). "Suction" has nothing to do with it. You may have been doing this a long time but you don't seem to understand the dynamics. You continue to offer a solution in search of a problem. Read my post more carefully. My problem has been solved.
No your clogging cat has not nessecarily been solved.
 
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When you close the damper, you reduce the air flow which reduces the velocity, which reduces entrainment of particulate matter (ash). "Suction" has nothing to do with it. You may have been doing this a long time but you don't seem to understand the dynamics. You continue to offer a solution in search of a problem. Read my post more carefully. My problem has been solved.
One big problem here is you aren’t using correct terminology. It’s primary air control, and catalyst bypass. You don’t have a damper, that’s what has been suggested, adding a damper in the connector pipe to reduce the draft.
 
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While the vinegar bath might have helped, it's fixing the symptom and not the root of the issue. Your chimney has too much draft for your stove. In order to fix the plugging cat issue in its entirety you must reduce draft.

FYI, the vinegar wash is part of a normal maintenance program, not a "symptom fix" according to Woodstock, the manufacturer.

From their manual:
"VINEGAR & WATER CLEANING HOW TO:
The vinegar & distilled water cleaning is recommended 1-2 times during the heating season. The vinegar is just acidic enough to remove any ash within the cells that may be masking the catalytic coating."

Please give them some credit for knowing something about their products.
How could you possibly know for certain my chimney has too much draft?
You fail to grasp that my plugging problems occurred when I used high draft with the bypass closed. I no longer do so.
Among the greatest motivators in human existence have been money, power, sex, and the need to be right.
 
One big problem here is you aren’t using correct terminology. It’s primary air control, and catalyst bypass. You don’t have a damper, that’s what has been suggested, adding a damper in the connector pipe to reduce the draft.

No, according to the manufacturer (per the manuals) it's "combustion air damper" which I refer to as the damper. It's also "catalytic bypass" which I refer to as the bypass. Perhaps you are not familiar with the PH. It has a single "combustion air damper" which controls both the primary and secondary air.
 
Maybe you should try some of the suggestions on this message board, you never know, you might get your stove dialed in better than you thought possible.

Ironically, my stove IS currently dialed in better than I ever thought possible.
 
No, according to the manufacturer (per the manuals) it's "combustion air damper" which I refer to as the damper. It's also "catalytic bypass" which I refer to as the bypass. Perhaps you are not familiar with the PH. It has a single "combustion air damper" which controls both the primary and secondary air.
No, I’m perfectly familiar with the stove and it’s operation. Just trying to get on the same page with the terms. You’ve kind of been all over the place. Draft and damper haven’t seemed to click up to this point.
 
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No, I’m perfectly familiar with the stove and it’s operation. Just trying to get on the same page with the terms.

Then why would you use the term "primary air control" when the PH has no such thing? That just confuses everyone.
 
Then why would you use the term "primary air control" when the PH has no such thing? That just confuses everyone.
You calling the air control a damper confuses everyone as well. Dampers are in the smoke stream not ahead of the fire
 
We'll see in 2-3 weeks if your problem is solved or your cat clogs again. I've gone a month in the middle of winter before it clogs. If it does clog I think a damper will help, would probably help me too but at this point if the season I might just wait til spring, unless Bholler wants to take a road trip ==c.
 
Then why would you use the term "primary air control" when the PH has no such thing? That just confuses everyone.
You came here clearly needing help but yet not willing to admit it. Then when ones with experience offer help you pretend to outsmart them with improper terminology and “engineering” experience. I don’t get it?
 
How could you possibly know for certain my chimney has too much draft?
You fail to grasp that my plugging problems occurred when I used high draft with the bypass closed. I no longer do so.
Yeah, this entire subject has been flogged to death on the BK thread. I don't quite get how draft can be high if you've got the air control low. But I'm not yet willing to say that there is nothing to it, since some say the dampers work..
Among the greatest motivators in human existence have been money, power, sex, and the need to be right.
Hey, let's not forget about drugs and rock n' roll. ;)
 
Yeah, this entire subject has been flogged to death on the BK thread. I don't quite get how draft can be high if you've got the air control low. But I'm not yet willing to say that there is nothing to it, since some say the dampers work..
Hey, let's not forget about drugs and rock n' roll. ;)
Yeah drugs sex and rock and roll work for me. I gave up.on money a long time ago. Lol
 
You calling the air control a damper confuses everyone as well. Dampers are in the smoke stream not ahead of the fire

Nonsense. PH owners know exactly what I'm referring to. It's a Woodstock product. I'm using Woodstock terminology as found in their various manuals. If you were familiar with Woodstock and their products you would know that.
 
You came here clearly needing help but yet not willing to admit it. Then when ones with experience offer help you pretend to outsmart them with improper terminology and “engineering” experience. I don’t get it?

You are dead wrong. I did not come here needing help. I came here to share my experience. Subsequently, I found a procedure, not suggested by anyone on this thread, that has virtually eliminated the previous shortcomings and dramatically improved the performance of my stove.

It seems that because my "solution" was not one suggested by anyone on this thread, I must therefore still have a problem. I don't.

I'm betting you still don't get it.
 
Nonsense. PH owners know exactly what I'm referring to. It's a Woodstock product. I'm using Woodstock terminology as found in their various manuals. If you were familiar with Woodstock and their products you would know that.
I know wood burning and the proper terminology associated with it thank you.
 
Yeah, this entire subject has been flogged to death on the BK thread. I don't quite get how draft can be high if you've got the air control low. But I'm not yet willing to say that there is nothing to it, since some say the dampers work..

"Flogged to death" is a gross understatement. I am far from an expert and do not dispute that some configurations need pipe dampers. I don't.
I'm repeatedly being told that even with the damper closed all the way (yes, I'm calling it a damper because that's what Woodstock calls it and there is only one), the draft is too high despite the stove running like a champ.

It's gotten just plain silly.
 
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