Purchasing a used H300. How do I ensure the firebox is safe for use?

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j.dhogg

New Member
Dec 22, 2017
21
Central Missouri
I plan to purchase a used Hampton H300 this week and I would like to know if their are any specific items I should have in mind to ensure the fire box is safe to use.

The stove was purchased new in 2006 and appears to be in good condition, however there are some seamingly minor issues I plan to repair. My main concern is damaged and falling apart firebrick. Replacing it shouldn’t be hard however there is a spot that you can see thru to the metal. Once the owner noticed this they used additional firebick placed in front of the original firebrick to continue use.

Is there reason to be concerned of the integrity of the fire box from fires that may have been burned prior to the additional firebrick? I plan to replace all the firebrick. I appreciate any advice you can offer.
 
It's probably ok if they placed that additional firebrick there right away. Inspect the exterior of the stove in that area and look for any cracks or whitened paint. Might as well inspect the whole stove for overheating and any signs of cracks. If you have a helper you can also shine a bright light on the interior seams and have the helper report any light leaks. There should be none. Check out the baffle and tubes too.

I think that is a vermiculite panel on the left, not firebrick. It's easy to damage if logs get slammed in via the right side door. If the stove passes muster then figure on replacing that panel and probably both door gaskets as well.
 
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Amazon has them for 34 dollars for package of 6 . I bought them for my hi300 and have had no problems
Is this regular firebrick? It doesn't sound like the same product. Regular firebrick will be less insulative. That can affect combustion efficiency.
 
Thanks for the link. Great to have the parts breakdown and costs. Do you have the insert or freestanding stove? The H300 (freestanding) vermiculite blocks are $77 right side and $57 for the door. Looking over the price sheet tells me you can spend a lot rebuilding a stove.

Is it important to use the manufacturer supplied gaskets and vermiculite/fire brick or is it ok to use after market to save money?
 
Thanks for the link. Great to have the parts breakdown and costs. Do you have the insert or freestanding stove? The H300 (freestanding) vermiculite blocks are $77 right side and $57 for the door. Looking over the price sheet tells me you can spend a lot rebuilding a stove.

Is it important to use the manufacturer supplied gaskets and vermiculite/fire brick or is it ok to use after market to save money?
If you can find the same spec stuff aftermarket there is no problem with that
 
If you can find the same spec stuff aftermarket there is no problem with that
Finding the spec can be a challenge. Very often the spec is not listed in the stove documentation. Gasket construction has many variables. I have not found an aftermarket gasket that matches the OEM spec for our Alderlea and that is after some serious investigation and a couple trial and error experiments. Same thing for the firebrick in this stove. It's not specced in the manual as pumice firebrick, but that's what it is.
 
Thanks begreen. I will probably play it safe and purchase direct replacement. Not an area I want to take chances in.

My next questions: Is there any reason to be concerned with purchasing and installing used double wall stove pipe? Are there specific warning signs of damage from over heating that would make me want to avoid it? If it appears in good condition, what percent under new retail should I expect to pay for good used stove pipe?

Thank you all for your input!
 
Amazon has them for 34 dollars for package of 6 . I bought them for my hi300 and have had no problems

I just purchased six boxes off Amazon, this is the same brick that the manufactures use in the stoves correct. I also have a brick and tile wet saw for cutting the brick to size, do bricks expand? can I have a tight fit between the joints, or should you leave a little wiggle room. When I removed the old brick the ashes and debris were wedged between the bricks making them a little stubborn to remove.
[Hearth.com] Purchasing a used H300. How do I ensure the firebox is safe for use? [Hearth.com] Purchasing a used H300. How do I ensure the firebox is safe for use?
 
I get my firebrick at the local brickyard. 9.5 x 1.25 inches. The same thing Rutland is charging 34 bucks/6 bricks for costs me A LOT less. I think those pumice things are junk.
 
I just purchased six boxes off Amazon, this is the same brick that the manufactures use in the stoves correct. I also have a brick and tile wet saw for cutting the brick to size, do bricks expand? can I have a tight fit between the joints, or should you leave a little wiggle room. When I removed the old brick the ashes and debris were wedged between the bricks making them a little stubborn to remove.
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Nope most use lighter weight pumice brick that insulate better what you have is standard 1" firebrick.
 
I get my firebrick at the local brickyard. 9.5 x 1.25 inches. The same thing Rutland is charging 34 bucks/6 bricks for costs me A LOT less. I think those pumice things are junk.
I find the pumice hold up better. Yes they wear but they dont crack as easily. Plus if the stove is designed and tested for the pumice ones your clearances are not right with standard brick. And the performance could be different
 
I get my firebrick at the local brickyard. 9.5 x 1.25 inches. The same thing Rutland is charging 34 bucks/6 bricks for costs me A LOT less. I think those pumice things are junk.
Pumice brick is fine. It's a good insulator. Our firebrick is now going on it's 9th season and still in good shape. We have one cracked brick in the rear and I remember exactly when that occurred (and who did it ;em).
 
I just purchased six boxes off Amazon, this is the same brick that the manufactures use in the stoves correct. I also have a brick and tile wet saw for cutting the brick to size, do bricks expand? can I have a tight fit between the joints, or should you leave a little wiggle room. When I removed the old brick the ashes and debris were wedged between the bricks making them a little stubborn to remove.
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I don't know what the Country 260 insert uses, regular brick or pumice. The manual does not specify. Were you able to make contact with them?
 
Thanks begreen. I will probably play it safe and purchase direct replacement. Not an area I want to take chances in.

My next questions: Is there any reason to be concerned with purchasing and installing used double wall stove pipe? Are there specific warning signs of damage from over heating that would make me want to avoid it? If it appears in good condition, what percent under new retail should I expect to pay for good used stove pipe?

Thank you all for your input!
The odds are it's fine, but I would not pay a lot for it. Most importantly, does it mate correctly with the chimney pipe at the support or thimble? If in doubt, for the least hassle get the same brand connector pipe as the chimney pipe.
 
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The two bricks on the bottom is what came out of the stove, they measure the same 1-1/4" thick as what I ordered. The Country Elite E260 was built in 1991, do you think they originally used pumice or brick.

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It looks like they are pumice. But it should be easy to tell are the old ones allot lighter?
 
The odds are it's fine, but I would not pay a lot for it. Most importantly, does it mate correctly with the chimney pipe at the support or thimble? If in doubt, for the least hassle get the same brand connector pipe as the chimney pipe.

I’m actually looking to purchase the chimney pipe and stove pipe that was used with the stove. The owner removed both the stove and chimney pipe. The system was straight up thru the ceiling and was bought in 2009.
I believe my system will need to go out the wall and then up, but I figure if I get a good deal on the pipe I can just purchase the additional pieces needed for my application.
 
I don't know what the Country 260 insert uses, regular brick or pumice. The manual does not specify. Were you able to make contact with them?

I called and I was routed to a voicemail, no call back yet. I will try again tomorrow, the only PDF manuals I could find online are newer models of EPA Aproved versions 2007, I'm looking for the manual for 1991 version.