Quadra Fire 2100 problem and poor factory response

[JohnS3]

Late in 2021 we purchased a Q F 2100 to replace an old stove that was in the house we bought. I installed it easily and we were satisfied with the stove.

Then we had our first fire in it. After an hour or so (burning kiln dried wood) the glass was covered in baked on soot and the fire was not visible.

I contacted the factory with a message about the problem and their response was to be sure that I was using a non-ammonia cleaner.

I replied that the problem happened before I ever cleaned the glass.

NO RESPONSE from them.

Has anyone had a similar problem with a Quadra Fire 2100 stove?

Thanks

 

[bholler]

Late in 2021 we purchased a Q F 2100 to replace an old stove that was in the house we bought. I installed it easily and we were satisfied with the stove.

Then we had our first fire in it. After an hour or so (burning kiln dried wood) the glass was covered in baked on soot and the fire was not visible.

I contacted the factory with a message about the problem and their response was to be sure that I was using a non-ammonia cleaner.

I replied that the problem happened before I ever cleaned the glass.

NO RESPONSE from them.

Has anyone had a similar problem with a Quadra Fire 2100 stove?

Thanks

What type size and height is your chimney? What is the connector pipe setup?
What is the moisture content of your wood?
How are you operating the stove?

 

[JohnS3]

The chimney is 6' tall double wall pipe 6" inside diameter coming vertically out of the stove. At the ceiling it connects to an 8" inside diameter double wall pipe that extends a total of 8' through the cold space above and exits the roof.

As of now we have only burned kiln dried wood since I am doing a complete remodel of the house and using dimensional lumber cut-offs.

Operating the stove as per the directions.

 

[begreen]

Sounds like a weak draft. This could be due to the jump up to an 8" chimney and a short overall flue system. If there are leaks, like at the flue collar, they could further dilute the draft. Is there a key damper in the stovepipe?

 

[bholler]

Yeah what begreen said. Short oversized chimney is most likely the problem

 

[savageactor7]

Our QF stove has a ---->^<---- little roof on the bottom centered on the glass, if that is kept clear of ashes it will help keep the glass clean with hot air.

Burning hot will also help keep the glass cleaner but not clean clean. We use bottled water and paper towels to clean the glass. tap water has minerals that will cloud the glass.

 

[JohnS3]

Thanks all., especially begreen.

Sounds like I need to change the upper pipe to 6" ID and get more draft.

Good place to start. Excellent.

 

[begreen]

Thanks all., especially begreen.

Sounds like I need to change the upper pipe to 6" ID and get more draft.

Good place to start. Excellent.

If you can add another 2 ft when changing the chimney, that should help too.

 

[JohnS3]

If you can add another 2 ft when changing the chimney, that should help too.

Thanks. Will keep that in mind.

 

[firefighterjake]

More info needed . . .

What was the stove's temp?
What was the stove pipe's temp?

How did you operate the stove . . . once the stove reached its operating temp did you turn down the air control . . . and if so, how much?

Generally I find that the baked on soot you describe -- guessing it may have been black soot . . . is often a) unseasoned wood, b) not burning the stove at the proper temp, c) improper air control or d) a combination of the above.

 

[begreen]

If the draft is weak the stove may have never gotten to secondary burn temp in the firebox. Then those factors are amplified.

 

[JohnS3]

Thanks all. I used the air control as per the instructions.

As far as wood moisture, I have only been using kiln dried lumber. We are doing a pretty substantial gut job on the house and have only been burning 2x4 and strapping cut-offs, no actual firewood. So very dry wood.

Tried to get a good picture. This is after 2 evenings where we had fires for about 3-4 hours each time. The picture really doesn't show how dirty the glass is.

To clean it I have to use vinegar and a green "scrubbie" plus a good amount of muscle.

 

[savageactor7]

Demo wood is extremely dry...so I wouldn't suspect the wood.

This isn't recommended but if it were me I'd crack the door open in an attempt to get a hotter fire to clean the glass and possibly reveal a more permanent solution, besides leaving the door cracked that is.

 

[DickRussell]

Assuming the stove is described as the QF 2100 Millenium, then I have the same stove. The difference is that my double wall pipe from stove to ceiling, then into class A chimney also 6" gives me over 20 ft for draft. I don't get any blackening of the glass, and just some thin ash film, easily removed with a scrap of damp paper towel. So I have to echo the suggestions of others that you need more chimney height, then have to run it hot enough so you get to shut down the primary air control (upper right, on the side) and get secondary burning.

 

[JohnS3]

Thanks for your input Dick. Looks like I will have to get the 8" pipe down to 6" to the cap

 

[Bad LP]

Thanks all. I used the air control as per the instructions.

As far as wood moisture, I have only been using kiln dried lumber. We are doing a pretty substantial gut job on the house and have only been burning 2x4 and strapping cut-offs, no actual firewood. So very dry wood.

Tried to get a good picture. This is after 2 evenings where we had fires for about 3-4 hours each time. The picture really doesn't show how dirty the glass is.

To clean it I have to use vinegar and a green "scrubbie" plus a good amount of muscle.
View attachment 294232

A damp paper towel and ash from the wood stove will clean that right up.

 

[JohnS3]

Sounds like a weak draft. This could be due to the jump up to an 8" chimney and a short overall flue system. If there are leaks, like at the flue collar, they could further dilute the draft. Is there a key damper in the stovepipe?

Thanks so much begreen. Looks like you nailed it.

I know it has been a while but other things have come up as we pretty much gut the entire house and build what we want.

Just this week I was up on the roof and took 6' of 6" pipe and slid it down inside the 12"outside/8"inside pipe after removing the cap. It fit well inside the 6" pipe at the ceiling level.
I centered the top with some SS wire.

Lit a fire today and the draft is much better. Thanks again.

And thanks to all those who also responded.

edit: I previously wrote that the upper pipe (12"outer/8"inner) was 8' tall. It ended up being only 6'tall. So the total flue pipe was only 12'.
But now having 12' of only 6" diameter pipe is working. Happy so far......

 

[bholler]

Thanks so much begreen. Looks like you nailed it.

I know it has been a while but other things have come up as we pretty much gut the entire house and build what we want.

Just this week I was up on the roof and took 6' of 6" pipe and slid it down inside the 12"outside/8"inside pipe after removing the cap. It fit well inside the 6" pipe at the ceiling level.
I centered the top with some SS wire.

Lit a fire today and the draft is much better. Thanks again.

And thanks to all those who also responded.

edit: I previously wrote that the upper pipe (12"outer/8"inner) was 8' tall. It ended up being only 6'tall. So the total flue pipe was only 12'.
But now having 12' of only 6" diameter pipe is working. Happy so far......

I hope you are doing that as a test and plan on replacing the chimney with a proper 6" one.

 

[JohnS3]

I hope you are doing that as a test and plan on replacing the chimney with a proper 6" one.

Yes as part of the entire house renovation.