Quadra Fire 3100i doesn't heat the whole house

[barnaclebob]

While the fire is going good, play with the air controls. When you close it down you should see the flames slow down and maybe go away. When you open it, the fire should be looking nice and alive, almost like an open fireplace fire. When you start the fire you want the air controls fully open.

Wet wood will eventually burn but takes a longer time and more kindling to get to a point where it wont go out. It will be less efficient at heating since you have to boil away all of that water and it can create more creosote in the chimney.

For long burns you need to set the air control as low as possible without the fire going out.

 

[deborita3]

While the fire is going good, play with the air controls. When you close it down you should see the flames slow down and maybe go away. When you open it, the fire should be looking nice and alive, almost like an open fireplace fire. When you start the fire you want the air controls fully open.

Wet wood will eventually burn but takes a longer time and more kindling to get to a point where it wont go out. It will be less efficient at heating since you have to boil away all of that water and it can create more creosote in the chimney.

For long burns you need to set the air control as low as possible without the fire going out.

I have some wood in the basement. Is it OK to keep it there or should it be stored outside?

 

[barnaclebob]

Storing wood inside is usually fine but will bring the bugs and mess into the basement.

Are you familiar with what people mean when they say "dry wood"? It doesn't just mean dry to the touch but the total moisture content of the wood. If you just had it delivered you need to buy a $20 moisture meter and measure the moisture content on a freshly split face. Delivered wood is rarely ever fully dry or "seasoned" even if they say it is.

I read the manual for your insert and it also looks like it has something called startup control. I'm not exactly sure how that works so be sure to carefully read the manual that someone else linked to.

 

[deborita3]

While the fire is going good, play with the air controls. When you close it down you should see the flames slow down and maybe go away. When you open it, the fire should be looking nice and alive, almost like an open fireplace fire. When you start the fire you want the air controls fully open.

Wet wood will eventually burn but takes a longer time and more kindling to get to a point where it wont go out. It will be less efficient at heating since you have to boil away all of that water and it can create more creosote in the chimney.

For long burns you need to set the air control as low as possible without the fire going out.

The primary or secondary?

 

[deborita3]

Storing wood inside is usually fine but will bring the bugs and mess into the basement.

Are you familiar with what people mean when they say "dry wood"? It doesn't just mean dry to the touch but the total moisture content of the wood. If you just had it delivered you need to buy a $20 moisture meter and measure the moisture content on a freshly split face. Delivered wood is rarely ever fully dry or "seasoned" even if they say it is.

I read the manual for your insert and it also looks like it has something called startup control. I'm not exactly sure how that works so be sure to carefully read the manual that someone else linked to.

There are 2 controls. I posted a pic of my stove. The control on the right and the one in the center are supposed to be pushed in when starting a fire. This lets air in. After the fire gets going the control on the right is suppose to be closed and the one in the center controls the fire; slow burn, etc.

I will have to get a meter. Thanks for all the info.

 

[Woody Stover]

The first thing to check is wood moisture. As barnaclebob said, purchased wood is almost never dry. Harbor Fright has a meter for $14.
It's also possible that you have a couple different types of wood, and one is a bit drier. That would explain why sometimes you get a hot fire, sometimes not. Have you ever seen flames in the top of the firebox, coming off of the secondary burn tubes?
If you bought the stove new, maybe someone from the store can stop by and try to run the stove with the wood you have. Maybe they could also bring a little known dry wood from the store? Gas station or box store wood that you buy may or may not be dry; The bricks that were mentioned, available at farm stores, will be a foolproof test of weather you are operating the stove properly..they should give you a hot fire.

 

[deborita3]

The first thing to check is wood moisture. As barnaclebob said, purchased wood is almost never dry. Harbor Fright has a meter for $14.
It's also possible that you have a couple different types of wood, and one is a bit drier. That would explain why sometimes you get a hot fire, sometimes not. Have you ever seen flames in the top of the firebox, coming off of the secondary burn tubes?
If you bought the stove new, maybe someone from the store can stop by and try to run the stove with the wood you have. Maybe they could also bring a little known dry wood from the store? Gas station or box store wood that you buy may or may not be dry; The bricks that were mentioned, available at farm stores, will be a foolproof test of weather you are operating the stove properly..they should give you a hot fire.

I didn't buy the stove, was here when I moved in the house in June. I will pick up a meter and check the moisture

The wood is different types elm locus maple oak

 

[weatherguy]

Turn it down in steps. When you get a roaring fire turn it down 1/4 of the way and let it get roaring again, do that til it's almost closed. In my case it's totally closed.

 

[deborita3]

Turn it down in steps. When you get a roaring fire turn it down 1/4 of the way and let it get roaring again, do that til it's almost closed. In my case it's totally closed.

I will try that tomorrow. Burning ok now. I think like someone said because there are different wood I think some may be dry and others not dry enough This is how the fire was after I finally got it started and the temperature

 

[deborita3]

I will try that tomorrow. Burning ok now. I think like someone said because there are different wood I think some may be dry and others not dry enoughView attachment 231835View attachment 231837This is how the fire was after I finally got it started and the temperature

So I just came home, coals were nice and hot, added some wood, lit for a bit and went out. Added another Kindle and it lit. Looks like it is the wood. Don't know what I am going to do for the winter.

 

[edyit]

Looks like it is the wood. Don't know what I am going to do for the winter.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/redstone-3-pack-fuel-block?cm_vc=-10005

is a very viable option and are available by the pallet, they also usually go on sale around thanksgiving

 

[VirginiaIron]

We had the pre ACC model as well. The trouble I found is the time it took to get usable heat from the stove so the stove became a Friday through Monday burner. It seems like all the heat was in the fireplace and not out front. The window produced substantial radiant heat. We almost always had to run the fans on high. Admittedly, when we purchased the stove, we were more concerned with looks than performance, and the insert is small. Ours came with a VHS instructional video.
The guy that now has the stove loves it, but he came from an old smoke dragon. The stove does seem to produce more heat at his house but he has carpeting and only two windows and a less open space. The guy who now has the stove did not cover his wood and I noticed the heavy steel baffle was deteriorating, he now covers the wood.
300 degrees is just getting started and probably just over the minimum temperature to start the secondaries.
We used paper and kindling at first then gradually increased the wood size which seemed to take time but may have primed the stove for heat(?). We finally used smaller pieces of splits with a small piece of fire starter.
Your wood should be dry in moisture content.
We replaced the insert with a free standing stove and are very satisfied.

 

[VirginiaIron]

You need to cover your wood and there are videos about putting the wood inside. Some or one of these videos indicated the evaporative moisture content was massive. Initially, I kept a small amount of wood in a bin several feet from the stove. Since most of our wood was dead standing, the heat caused all the critters to become very active. We then moved the wood into the garage inside of one topless 55 gallon barrel. This seemes to work well and is a practice we continue today.

 

[VirginiaIron]

My woodburning stove reaches high temperatures but my hallway and bedrooms are still a little chilly. I have a blower on the stove and turn the ceiling fan on in the dining room bit the heat just doesn't get down the hall and to the bedrooms. I don't remember the exact sq footage of the house; just moved here a few months ago but I believe it's over 1200. As for the controls on the stove; I know you open both when first starting the fire but when do you close them and can you keep the secondary one open which is located in the center of the unit?View attachment 231782

Correction: Both controllers fully open for starting- pushed in, then close the startup after about 15 minutes (might be sooner depending on your conditions) then regulate the primary in or out to regulate the heat according to the burn. Keep in mind that stove is only about 45k btu maximum and when you regulate the secondary controller down to minimum you have even less btus.

 

[VirginiaIron]

There are 2 controls. I posted a pic of my stove. The control on the right and the one in the center are supposed to be pushed in when starting a fire. This lets air in. After the fire gets going the control on the right is suppose to be closed and the one in the center controls the fire; slow burn, etc.

I will have to get a meter. Thanks for all the info.

Correction- my controls were both pushed in on startup.

My woodburning stove reaches high temperatures but my hallway and bedrooms are still a little chilly. I have a blower on the stove and turn the ceiling fan on in the dining room bit the heat just doesn't get down the hall and to the bedrooms. I don't remember the exact sq footage of the house; just moved here a few months ago but I believe it's over 1200. As for the controls on the stove; I know you open both when first starting the fire but when do you close them and can you keep the secondary one open which is located in the center of the unit?View attachment 231782

That stove is identical to the one I had, accents and all. Using the location and appearance of your air controls to judge your model, are you sure your stove has the ACC? EDIT: It looks like the pre 1995 ACT model Advanced Combustion Technology.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Here is the startup procedure for the 3100 ACT. Check the numbers on your stove to verify the model.

 

[Dix]

This may be a stupid question but if it's the wood then wouldn't it not start at all? The fire has been going now for about 45 minutes and the temperature is hot. I think I am doing some wrong with the controls

Welcome to the forums !!

Wet AKA unseasoned fire wood will burn, but you use up a lot of the woods energy burning out the moisture. Do you hear hissing / sizzling coming from the wood as it's burning?

 

[deborita3]

Welcome to the forums !!

Wet AKA unseasoned fire wood will burn, but you use up a lot of the woods energy burning out the moisture. Do you hear hissing / sizzling coming from the wood as it's burning?

I have a mixture of wood. I think some is more wet than others. I have heard sizzling with some pieces and not with others. I am going to get a moisture meter.
Should the secondary control be open or closed? I have the primary closed.

 

[Dix]

As a general rule, air open on start up.

Check the above posted manual for details.

 

[deborita3]

As a general rule, air open on start up.

Check the above posted manual for details.

I have the air open on startup. I was wondering after you close the primary control, where should you keep the secondary which controls the heat. I don't want to burn the logs too quickly bit want to maintain enough heat. My magnetic thermometer is reading a little over 300. How high of a temp do you get on your stove?

 

[deborita3]

Correction- my controls were both pushed in on startup.

That stove is identical to the one I had, accents and all. Using the location and appearance of your air controls to judge your model, are you sure your stove has the ACC? EDIT: It looks like the pre 1995 ACT model Advanced Combustion Technology.

View attachment 231852

It is a Pre ACC. It has a blower on it that you control manually.
I thought the quadra was suppose to give off good heat.

 

[deborita3]

Here is the startup procedure for the 3100 ACT. Check the numbers on your stove to verify the model.
View attachment 231855 View attachment 231857 View attachment 231856

Thank you so much!!

 

[VirginiaIron]

If you have the ACT, you want to close the rod on the right (start control) at 5 to 15 minutes and the center one will regulate the heat according to quality of wood/draft, and circumstances.

Page 16 in my manual.
CENTER FULL OPEN (PUSH IN) MAX HEAT
If you have the ACT model.

 

[deborita3]

We had the pre ACC model as well. The trouble I found is the time it took to get usable heat from the stove so the stove became a Friday through Monday burner. It seems like all the heat was in the fireplace and not out front. The window produced substantial radiant heat. We almost always had to run the fans on high. Admittedly, when we purchased the stove, we were more concerned with looks than performance, and the insert is small. Ours came with a VHS instructional video.
The guy that now has the stove loves it, but he came from an old smoke dragon. The stove does seem to produce more heat at his house but he has carpeting and only two windows and a less open space. The guy who now has the stove did not cover his wood and I noticed the heavy steel baffle was deteriorating, he now covers the wood.
300 degrees is just getting started and probably just over the minimum temperature to start the secondaries.
We used paper and kindling at first then gradually increased the wood size which seemed to take time but may have primed the stove for heat(?). We finally used smaller pieces of splits with a small piece of fire starter.
Your wood should be dry in moisture content.
We replaced the insert with a free standing stove and are very satisfied.

Thanks for all the info

 

[deborita3]

View attachment 231876
If you have the ACT, you want to close the rod on the right (start control) at 5 to 15 minutes and the center one will regulate the heat according to quality of wood/draft, and circumstances.

Page 16 in my manual.
CENTER FULL OPEN (PULL) MAX HEAT
If you have the ACT model.

You push the center one in for fully open correct?