Quadra-Fire MT VERNON INSERT-AE Main Control Board Removal

[FNolan]

In replacing a thermal link I broke off one of the pins on the circuit board. Tried searching for video on how to remove the board so I can try soldering a new pin. Can't find one, does anyone know of one or detailed directions on removing the unit ? As stated in the title it's a QF Mt Vernon AE Insert.

TIA

 

[FNolan]

Update: Got the control board out and replaced the pins for the TC Fire Pot, no more error. BUT, now I'm getting the TC DROP TUBE error which I just replaced with a new one with no errors until I fixed the other error. Going to try a continuity test to see if some how it burned out ? Can't see why. If checks good guess I'll have to try replacing those pins and see if that fixes it. If not, $600 dollars for a new board or $1200 for a new more modern stove that should last several years. I've put over $1000 into this one over the past year or so.

Thanks to everyone that read this post

 

[kappel15]

Did you put the connector on correctly for the dt tc ? And are you sure you didn't mix the two up? kap

 

[FNolan]

Did you put the connector on correctly for the dt tc ? And are you sure you didn't mix the two up? kap

Got rid of the drop tube error but now getting the fire pot error. Getting old to say the least. There's little to no room to work on it. Pretty sure I have them in the right places, not so sure if it's upside down. Checked continuity and both are good. Done fighting today, I'll fight with it again at a later date. Thanks for the reply and suggestions.

 

[kappel15]

Sometimes the female fittings on the connector can get enlarged. Use a thumb tac and gently push them a little tighter from the long side. Not too much. It makes a better connection. kap

 

[FNolan]

Sometimes the female fittings on the connector can get enlarged. Use a thumb tac and gently push them a little tighter from the long side. Not too much. It makes a better connection. kap

Yea tried that, seemed to have a tighter connection but still got error. Had chemo today so it'll be a few days before I have enough energy to mess with it again. I'll try reversing that connector and/or jump pins on board to see if that get rid of the error.

Thanks again for your time with this.

 

[KipL]

Update: Got the control board out and replaced the pins for the TC Fire Pot, no more error. BUT, now I'm getting the TC DROP TUBE error which I just replaced with a new one with no errors until I fixed the other error. Going to try a continuity test to see if some how it burned out ? Can't see why. If checks good guess I'll have to try replacing those pins and see if that fixes it. If not, $600 dollars for a new board or $1200 for a new more modern stove that should last several years. I've put over $1000 into this one over the past year or so.

Thanks to everyone that read this post

Hi, would you mind sharing the process you used to get that board out? Thanks.

 

[Scoop11]

Update: Got the control board out and replaced the pins for the TC Fire Pot, no more error. BUT, now I'm getting the TC DROP TUBE error which I just replaced with a new one with no errors until I fixed the other error. Going to try a continuity test to see if some how it burned out ? Can't see why. If checks good guess I'll have to try replacing those pins and see if that fixes it. If not, $600 dollars for a new board or $1200 for a new more modern stove that should last several years. I've put over $1000 into this one over the past year or so.

Thanks to everyone that read this post

Hey! I did the same thing, broke one of the pins on the board while replacing the fire pot TC. I was able to temporarily solder a wire to the control board without removing the whole board. But I’d like to replace the pin itself for a better repair. Can you provide any suggestions on how you replaced the pin? Thx in advance!

 

[KipL]

Hey! I did the same thing, broke one of the pins on the board while replacing the fire pot TC. I was able to temporarily solder a wire to the control board without removing the whole board. But I’d like to replace the pin itself for a better repair. Can you provide any suggestions on how you replaced the pin? Thx in advance!

This thread is pretty old, but just in case...

Both socket bodies (the plastic housings that encase the pins and are "permanently" mounted to the control board) for both thermocouple connections had come off of my board leaving just the metal pins sticking out. This resulted in one of the pins eventually breaking off. Luckily, the socket housings were still attached to the plug bodies (i.e., they were not lost nor damaged).

Repair steps I used:

1. Unplug everything from the control board and remove it from the stove
2. Unsolder what's left of the broken pin from the board leaving a clear hole
3. Steal a pin from a JST (or similar) socket by carefully cutting away the surrounding plastic (see picture)
4. Trim the pin to length to match existing one.
5. Solder the new pin into the control board being careful to keep it pointing straight up
6. Carefully replace the socket housing onto the pins. Make sure you have the right socket housing for the TC connection you're working on (they're different). There are tiny plastic pins on the bottom on the housing that should match tiny holes in the board.
7. Use hot glue (sparingly) to permanently attach the housing to the board so it won't pull off again.

Here's what a JST socket looks like in case you're not familiar with them:


Good Luck

 

[KipL]

In replacing a thermal link I broke off one of the pins on the circuit board. Tried searching for video on how to remove the board so I can try soldering a new pin. Can't find one, does anyone know of one or detailed directions on removing the unit ? As stated in the title it's a QF Mt Vernon AE Insert.

TIA

I just posted how I repaired the same thing on another thread here.

 

[Scoop11]

This thread is pretty old, but just in case...

Both socket bodies (the plastic housings that encase the pins and are "permanently" mounted to the control board) for both thermocouple connections had come off of my board leaving just the metal pins sticking out. This resulted in one of the pins eventually breaking off. Luckily, the socket housings were still attached to the plug bodies (i.e., they were not lost nor damaged).

Repair steps I used:

1. Unplug everything from the control board and remove it from the stove
2. Unsolder what's left of the broken pin from the board leaving a clear hole
3. Steal a pin from a JST (or similar) socket by carefully cutting away the surrounding plastic (see picture)
4. Trim the pin to length to match existing one.
5. Solder the new pin into the control board being careful to keep it pointing straight up
6. Carefully replace the socket housing onto the pins. Make sure you have the right socket housing for the TC connection you're working on (they're different). There are tiny plastic pins on the bottom on the housing that should match tiny holes in the board.
7. Use hot glue (sparingly) to permanently attach the housing to the board so it won't pull off again.

Here's what a JST socket looks like in case you're not familiar with them:


Good Luck

View attachment 304756

Very helpful KipL! Thank you SC

 

[vjhome]

Update: Got the control board out and replaced the pins for the TC Fire Pot, no more error. BUT, now I'm getting the TC DROP TUBE error which I just replaced with a new one with no errors until I fixed the other error. Going to try a continuity test to see if some how it burned out ? Can't see why. If checks good guess I'll have to try replacing those pins and see if that fixes it. If not, $600 dollars for a new board or $1200 for a new more modern stove that should last several years. I've put over $1000 into this one over the past year or so.

Thanks to everyone that read this post

Could you tell me how you loosened up the board to remove. I can't find any screws unless there behind the blower.
Thanks

 

[KipL]

There are no screws. You'll notice behind the plastic housing that encases the board, there is a metal plate. That plate has holes in it. The back of the plastic board housing has posts that slide downward into those holes. At the top of the housing there is a plastic spring tab that locks it into place.

So, feel behind the top heatsink for that plastic tab. Pinch it towards the heatsink, and the housing should then slide up and out. I'm probably not doing the best job describing it, but once you see it you'll realize how it works. You'll want to unplug everything before taking the board out.

Good luck.

 

[vjhome]

There are no screws. You'll notice behind the plastic housing that encases the board, there is a metal plate. That plate has holes in it. The back of the plastic board housing has posts that slide downward into those holes. At the top of the housing there is a plastic spring tab that locks it into place.

So, feel behind the top heatsink for that plastic tab. Pinch it towards the heatsink, and the housing should then slide up and out. I'm probably not doing the best job describing it, but once you see it you'll realize how it works. You'll want to unplug everything before taking the board out.

Good luck.

Thank.
One more question when you have a
chance. Where will the fuse for igniter be.
Thanks again.

 

[KipL]

Here's the location of the igniter fuse. But, if yours isn't working, it's much more likely that the element has burned out.

Note that this diagram is upside down.

 

[vjhome]

Here's the location of the igniter fuse. But, if yours isn't working, it's much more likely that the element has burned out.

Note that this diagram is upside down.
View attachment 307435

Had 3 spare igniters all 3 tested before installing 35 ohms. All 3 burn out as soon as I started stove. I assume the fuse is on the back side of board (probably will have to remove). I assume board is bad somewhere.
Thanks

 

[KipL]

That is very strange. Were they all original Quadrafire igniters or clones? I've read that the clones tend to burn out prematurely. As far as I know, the igniter runs at 120 volts. Looking at the schematic, all the board does is switch the igniter on and off using a relay...it doesn't change the igniter voltage.

IMO, it would be very strange indeed if the board had something wrong with it which was causing out all these igniters to burn out. Also per the schematic, if the igniter fuse was blown, the igniter wouldn't get any voltage at all, but you say you've burned out 3 of them.

If you're not using original Quadrafire parts I'd suggest you switch. It sounds like you've already spent more than what an original Quadrafire igniter will cost you.

Also when you install an igniter make sure it isn't touching the square metal tube that houses it.

Good Luck.

 

[Flathead fan]

I need to check/replace the fuse for the igniter. How does the plastic housing that covers the circuit board come off so I can get access to it?

 

[KipL]

It's been a while...but if memory serves, that plastic housing is a "sandwich", and the screws to separate it aren't accessible unless you remove the entire assembly. So, unplug all the cables connected to the board (take pictures first), then feel behind the top heatsink to find a plastic tab. Squeeze it towards the heatsink, after which you should be able to slide the entire assembly up then out of the stove. I think then you'll see the screws that hold the two halves of the housing together.

Hopefully somebody here will correct me if I'm not remembering this right...

 

[Flathead fan]

Thanks! I gained access to the fuse, which was toast, replaced it after finding the correct fuse on Amazon and reassembled. Working again!
what a terrible place to put a fuse. Has anyone ever put an inline fuse on the power lead to the igniter for easier access?

 

[kappel15]

They make an inline fuse wire harness for the igniter. You should be able to purchase one. kap