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Posted By pelletstove93,
Dec 7, 2014 at 12:32 PM
The negative exhaust fan is running, has been all along.Well since I replaced the fuse holder
This shows how important it is to use the right words to describe the problem. I think that everyone has been trying to fix the wrong problem. This is frustrating and a waste of everyones time.
The convection fan, the one that delivers heated air to the room won't turn on until the stove is up to temperature. The stove won't come up to temperature unless there are pellets burning in the fire pot. There won't be pellets burning unless the auger is delivering them and they have been ignited.
Exactly what is wrong with your stove right now?
Exhaust fan has been running all along? UFFDA Ok. Now is the time to bypass the vac switch by jumping its wires together. Remember this has to sense a vacuum to pass the electricity on to the auger. If auger starts after you do this (and stove is calling for heat), we know you either have a vacuum problem or the vac switch is bad, or bad connections. If auger doesn't start after this when the stove calls for heat, next step is to bypass #2 and #3 snap disc by jumping their wires together. And make sure all wires you jump can't get grounded. kap
I'm going to be a lacky and not read all 100+ posts. If the fuse blows (explosively) the instant it is plugged in, you obviously have a severe short either accross the line or to ground. Replace the fuse, but don't plug in. Hook an ohm meter up across the two phase plugs of the cord. Start unplugging components until you see the ohm meter go up in resistance, and replace that component. If that brings you no joy, tie both prongs together and connect the ohm meter from there to the ground pin & repeat the same procedure. Remember that a chaffed wire touching metal can do this, so look carefully for wire knicks.
The short was a wire off the igniter. We are way past that. Had to replace whole fuse holder. Now trying to get stove components to run. Thanks
I only sent the 1200 manual so that you could compare the logic of the electrical circuits with what you have. Look at the circuit that controls the room convection fan (yes, I know you have two) to see if the wires run the same way through snap disk #1. Also look at the auger circuit and trace wires to see if they are the same through the vacuum switch and snap disk.
I also sent you a link where you can actually get YOUR stove's electrical schematic for a few bucks. That would save a lot of time and confusion.
Your next step is to do what Kap said in his last post. Bypass the vacuum switch and tell us exactly how you did it and what the results are.
I think he is over his head on this stove problem. First he keeps going to different dealers and tries to compare what they are telling him to what he is being asked to do here. Then you have auto correct on the phone and also a misunderstanding on what blower is called what. Ad in a buddy who doesn't seem to want to come over and try to help get this stove going. Doesn't sound like he has bought the manuals that have been suggested either.
Just a guess here but after 5 pages of posts maybe it time to start fresh if 93 will stay away from these 2 dealers who don't seem to be able to help him. There is no reason for them to give away information for free either.
It seems he has been asked to do something by the forum members that are trying very hard to help him, and then he does something that a dealer has mentioned and what the forum members, Kap, and Tj, have asked to be done goes out the window. Time to use either one or the other as it's very confusing to everyone, including him.
These stoves are not that hard to troubleshoot if you do what your asked to do. Asked to do by Kap, or Tj.
Maybe try fresh and do step by step what your asked to do. I truly hope your able to get your stove running and without having to put in a control box or board.
CAN WE HAVE AN AMEN????
Boy oh boy .... there is just no hope with this one, I've followed this thread from the start, and it seems that the OP has not taken the info here and applied it to his problem.
..... I'll go get me some popcorn and a beer or two and sit back and watch the show.
Ok need a electrical man to answer this. The Gray wire coming off of the fuse in junction box has 116.7 volts at junction box the wire runs straight to #3 snap disc, at snap disc it has 2.7 volts. Continuity test on wire reads good. I've been told you have to test wires with a load on them that continuity won't cut it. Is this right.
What info haven't I applied? Point it out cause
I don't know what it is. Followed every step kappel gave me can't hire a service man for lil over a month and my friend knows nothing about electronic devices only house wiring. If I'm missing something tell me something I can do it. I've found 4 problems using kappels advice and corrected them. But sometimes we canter the woods for the trees.
This has it in a nutshell !
Also jumped snap disc #1 both convection fans came on and run, so all fans are good, auger isn't stuck, New thermocouple, New 5 amp fuse and fuse holder, prepared igniter wires that were shorting out. The exhaust fan has been on since fuse holder repair as well as call light but no auger and the igniter isn't coming on. Snap disc 3 should have power to both sides to work stove, right? That wire reads 116.7 volts on wiring harness at junction box but only 2.7 volts at snap disc while continuity test reads good. Burnt wire in harness? That wire comes directly off of the fuse holder that fried.
My friend I've done everything I've been asked to do or I wouldn't have gotten this far. I won't mess with electrical wires without advice. So did you see a step I missed is what I'm asking.
Ok so that does sound right. My friend trying to tell me that the continuity test reads good so I'm wrong. I've tested water heater elements that were bad but showed continuity even though they were burnt into. The hard water deposits made the continuity test show good. If that can happen anything can.
Take snap disc 3 out of the loop, connect the two wires for that disc together and see if the stove will start. << If this works replace the snap disc.
Auger -- Check hopper lid / area for a switch if it has one, check wires are OK and connected to the switch. This switch only works when the hopper lid is closed to operate the auger to feed pellets from the hopper.
Igniter -- Check wires from igniter to the main board. If there is a fuse inline, check this and it's casing / housing / holder, if no fuse inline, look for one on the control board where the wires go to get power.
Have bypassed #3 same results, this model has no switch in lid I can find and am told it doesn't, no inline fuse on igniter, only fuse left is .5 amp on circuit board in control box, it is also good. I decided to start fire manually just hoping it might ride off once saddled up. No go, but the green led and the red led are on now that are on top of control box. Convection fans didn't come on once hot either, maybe it didn't get hot enough to run them, idk
Not sure if this has been addressed before, but has the auger motor been tested and verified to be good?
OK, good question, now we need this info to help more.
It was running before all this happened but I know that means nothing, no I haven't tested it totally, did have 119 volts to it on white wire at one point. But it still isn't running. Convection fans didn't come on once hot so I jumped them and it's hot. The aubergine motor may be an issue or vac switch? Idk maybe control box after all how ever I think red led means stove is running correctly? Have read that again.
Will try n get a few good pics of auger motor as it has a few wires that original owner played with I believe. I have tried to find proper wiring of motor to insure it's wired right. He pulled wires outta the motor and spliced them together so auger ran all the time, I switched it and it's been running for 3 years.
Gonna look for a pic of a new auger motor to see wires.
trying to point to spot wire was removed
this is white wires hole, other pic is for a black wire.