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Posted By pelletstove93,
Dec 7, 2014 at 12:32 PM
Wrong, zero ohms means the switch is closed.
Harvey that has been in my mind since I put it back together but near as I can tell from manuel all us right and I've checked and triple checked. One thing that bothers me I'm suspicious of is the reset button, it has 3 blades on it but only has 2 wires connected to it. My question is should it matter which way it's hooked up? It's a switch so I'm assuming it doesn't matter, unless one is used for something else in another model or it's a dummy. The initial problem was a short in igniter wires that blew 2 fuses and smoked and exploded 2 damaging fuse holder. Wires repaired fuse and fuse holder repair along with blown call light replaced. Also replaced thermocouple wire as it had a break in it. After all this I got exhaust fan and call light, no feed or ignition.
Then the stove should work as long as all the wires are connected and there are no open circuits (disconnected wire / wire not making contact / broken wire).
0000 means closed. If using the continuity test what reading should I get.
Broken wire or I just swapped a wire in junction box has been my thinking but I found a wiring diagram in the quadrafire 1000 manual that someone told me about and according to it I'm right with exception of the reset button. I'm gonna swap wires n see if it changes things.
The black wire coming from vac switch to anger is hot if jumped or vac switch is working?
The switch may be one with both a normally open and a normally closed contact. One wire should be on the common and the other should be on the normally closed contact.
If it is following the standard wiring, the white wire should be neutral.
The black wire should be hot (supplies voltage).
0000 means the switch is closed, which is good. I don't know what you mean when you are saying you checked continuity after checking ohms. If you are measuring voltage across the switch, it would be zero volts IF YOU HAVE A COMPLETE CIRCUIT but I'm not sure about that with the burned white neutral wire. You are better off measuring voltage from the chassis to both sides of the snap disk, both sides of the vacuum switch and the input side of the auger motor ONE POINT AT A TIME AND WRITE THEM DOWN. Remember that after you plug in your stove, let the combustion blower run for ten minutes, then turn up your thermostat so the CALL FOR HEAT light comes on, and push the reset button. You may have to push the reset button multiple times to get all your readings since the auger runs for only a short time with each reset push. After your auger times out, you won't have voltage to any of those points.
As Harvey said, it could very well be a loose wire. In fact, I'd bet a neutral wire.
The question makes no sense. Please restate.
At this point it's also possible that the auger motor is not working.
I was assuming whatever scale he was on was reading zero. Open on my meter says OL and closed is 000. For him to say 0000 to me means a closed circuit. Good point if the reset button has a NC and NO contact. ANYTHING is possible at this point with wires being jumped and moved around!
Early on he said that the manual said snap disk #1 controlled the combustion motor so I sure would like to see his schematic before we start ASS U ME ING any more.
ADD> check ohms across the two wired contacts of the reset button. You should read 000 and then when you push the button it should go to OL or some very high ohms reading.
So, it's either a bad wire connection, or a shot auger motor ..... or the vac switch.
If it has the old type vac switch .......... visit the link below and read post #2 .....
Since there is so much confusion about which snap disks control which functions, I really can't offer any more advice until I see a schematic of YOUR stove that was in the service manual you sent for. As for your electrician 'friend', we aren't dealing with electronics, we're dealing with switches and motors and voltages to them. If he IS an electrician and he can't understand or work with these things, then I'd love to know where he got his license! Not to be mean but I think he's letting you down.
OR as I said, the snap disk that's in line with those two items. Heaven knows what number it is! But he or his electrician buddy should be able to trace a single wire to find out where it is and which one it is!
Many of these Vac switches have two ports. If the hose is connected to the wrong port he will never find it inspecting the wires.
If you have continuity, it means the switch is closed and it needs to be so the current can run thru it. I don't know how much more we can help you without being there. You need to follow the blocks of stove sequence. Make sure stove is calling for heat, and then check where electricity starts and stops. There has been way too much jumping around so we don't really know what does and doesn't work to make the auger run. Exhaust fan runs. While stove is calling for heat, you need to see if you have power on wires going to vac switch, both sides. You need to see if you have power at snap disc #2.Remember when you first turn stove on, auger would have only ran for 60 or 98 seconds. Can't remember how long on this old stove. You would have to hit the reset button to keep going
He shorted things out 3 times and enough to toast the fuse holder, from a loose strand of wire from the igniter. We are trying to make sure if he needs a new control box or not as they are not cheap and he is strapped for finances.
He shorted out the stove 3 times from a loose strand of wire from the igniter. It even toasted the fuse holder. We are trying to see if he needs a new control box or not as they are pretty expensive and he is strapped for cash. kap
I miss identified the fan earlier calling it a combustion fan, it is the largest convection fans. But I believe I'm right in that the manual tj posted a link for, which is the technical Manuel, it says #1 snap disc controls it if I recall it correctly.
This reset button definitely has specific wiring . I swapped wires and have nothing, I swapped again nothing. So I gotta do the omh test Harvey posted to get the proper position back
I'm sorry for confusion, I'm trying to answer everyone to be polite and I'm confusing you guys I think. Sorry. Its overwhelming the help I'm getting I'm so thankful, it is helping on this side. Even if it seems not.
Once I get reset button right and power back I'll test vac switch and go from there. Will post results. But I'm frustrated that I had power and may have been getting there and I'm further away now.
May try after dinner.
If all else fails I'll fill it with tannerite and shoot it. I'll be sure to post that if I do, lol. I'm kidding if coarse.
Thank you all. It may help if you look at the Manuel tj posted for me. As well as the quadrafire 1000 manual as it has the junction box schematics.
Be back later.
Thanks kap, disappointed right now needs a break Advil sure y'all do, lol. Gonna eat n have at it.But will hit vac switch next after I'm back where I was. Thanks to all!!
What's your problem?
I double posted. lol
Looks like I triple posted or something too. All mixed up after scrolling up.
Vac switch ----- Snap disc #2 ----- capacitor ------ auger motor
What are the chances that the capacitor is shot ? Would that stop the auger from working ?
Yes it would. The motor would be erratic with a failed capacitor. It might reverse directions or just sit and hum.
On the newer models, they will reverse