quadrafire 1100 pellet stove does nothing after blowing fuse n replacing it

pelletstove93 Posted By pelletstove93, Dec 7, 2014 at 12:32 PM

  1. bflat

    bflat
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Mar 21, 2014
    8
    0
    Loc:
    Wisconsin
    Did the lights go on in succession at the proper times after you lit the fire?
    Or did they go on at the same time as soon as you turned on the stove?

    The manual that Tj listed says that the thermocouple wires have to be connected specifically in the junction box.
    Yellow-positive to top center terminal, and Red-negative to lower center terminal.

    Is it possible they got reversed?
    I am not sure if that would cause a false voltage to be sent to the controller, preventing the igniter from going or not.
    I would definitely verify again that all your connections are correct in the junction box after you were working in there.

    As suggested earlier, did you check continuity for the igniter all the way to the controller and not just the harness?

    Did you figure out where those wires by the auger come from.
    Maybe someone replaced the auger motor using a new pigtail and those are just old ones, but you still need to check whats connected to them.
    To test for voltage to the auger motor I would just back probe the feed wire at the motor with your voltmeter and the other lead connected to chassis ground.
    Turn on the stove and see if you get voltage for a minute or two and then if it goes off, this will verify the controller is sending voltage for the initial feed for start up.

    Verify if the motor is running or not to make sure it's not just stripped gears or a loose locking collar.
     
  2. Harvey Schneider

    Harvey Schneider
    Minister of Fire 2.
    NULL
    

    Oct 9, 2012
    1,321
    322
    Loc:
    Southbury, CT
    Yes, the thermocouple is polarized and attaching it backwards will not work. Putting it in backwards would cause a negative Voltage while the control board is looking to measure a positive Voltage.
    One other thing to look for. Visual confirmation that the auger motor is not running backwards or dithering.
     
  3. pelletstove93

    pelletstove93
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Dec 7, 2014
    95
    1
    Loc:
    virginia
    Ok auger works when line voltage applied directly. So all fans are good, auger and thermocouple is all good, I know snap disc #1 and #3 have power to them.. #1 I'm still unsure about igniter, will apply direct voltage to it to see if it glows. An vac guy recommended this just to rule out they were bad, so all that's would be left is wiring harness ( or bad wires anywhere ) , control board, vac switch n snap discs...

    Since my friend doesn't know how to run an ohm test I'll need to know to be sure as I have said testing electrical components isn't strong point but I can follow clear instructions. Like which setting? 200? And do you test ohms under power or unplugged like a continuity test ? This will check snap discs one of you guys said..

    Also does power come straight to auger on start up or after so many seconds? I know it only runs for 30 to 98 secs when it does run per Kappel and manual.

    Thanks
     
  4. pelletstove93

    pelletstove93
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Dec 7, 2014
    95
    1
    Loc:
    virginia
    Ok auger works when line voltage applied directly. So all fans are good, auger and thermocouple is all good, I know snap disc #1 and #3 have power to them.. #1 I'm still unsure about igniter, will apply direct voltage to it to see if it glows. An vac guy recommended this just to rule out they were bad, so all that's would be left is wiring harness ( or bad wires anywhere ) , control board, vac switch n snap discs...

    Since my friend doesn't know how to run an ohm test I'll need to know to be sure as I have said testing electrical components isn't strong point but I can follow clear instructions. Like which setting? 200? And do you test ohms under power or unplugged like a continuity test ? This will check snap discs one of you guys said..

    Also does power come straight to auger on start up or after so many seconds? I know it only runs for 30 to 98 secs when it does run per Kappel and manual.

    Thanks
     
  5. pelletstove93

    pelletstove93
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Dec 7, 2014
    95
    1
    Loc:
    virginia
    Auger works under d
    auger works under direct line power from wall.

    Lights came on in order, not at sametime ..

    Wives are correct on thermocouple, I double checked it as well because I second guessed myself.

    I did check continuity all the way from junction box..

    Am gonna check auger power again in bit, have to take son to a young marine banquet. But will post results.

    Thank you.
     
  6. pelletstove93

    pelletstove93
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Dec 7, 2014
    95
    1
    Loc:
    virginia
    Checked for motor running backwards after I saw a post on that it does nothing. Wires on thermocouple are correct.
     
  7. pelletstove93

    pelletstove93
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Dec 7, 2014
    95
    1
    Loc:
    virginia
    Don't know
    Why the dealer said same thing. The wires was broken about an inch below the twist on end, I butted them tighter shoved the cover on and it has worked... Luck I guess. I found it that way soon I put it back together that way.. I've replaced it so it's not longer an issue as whole lot the green and red leds came on indicating signal from thermocouple..

    Thanks
     
  8. pelletstove93

    pelletstove93
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Dec 7, 2014
    95
    1
    Loc:
    virginia
    That's right, no cap for auger only 2 caps, one for exhaust fan and one for both convection fans.
     
  9. CladMaster

    CladMaster
    Minister of Fire 2.
    NULL
    

    Nov 20, 2012
    677
    119
    Loc:
    Maine
    The vac switch ..... is the tube connected to it and to the port in the stove ?

    Can you take a picture of the vac switch and post it here so that we can see the connectors. Need to find out what version of vac switch you have, there are two versions for this stove.
     
  10. gfreek

    gfreek
    Minister of Fire 2.
    NULL
    

    Nov 5, 2010
    1,028
    109
    Loc:
    Beautiful Attica/Varysburg,New York
    Test ohms Unplugged..like continuity test
     
  11. bflat

    bflat
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Mar 21, 2014
    8
    0
    Loc:
    Wisconsin
    Did you use your voltmeter and probe the feed wire right at the auger motor with the ground lead connected to the chassis right after turning on the stove to see if you had voltage?

    When you say you tested the motor direct to house current, do you mean that both motor wires were disconnected from the stove and plugged into a cord separately ?

    I'm not sure what I missed on previous posts, but you did say you had power at the Vac switch.

    Do you have power beyond that point when the convection blower is running, and all the way to the auger during the fill cycle?
    If so, disconnect the motor and also the stove from power and trace the neutral from the motor back thru the harness to find everywhere it goes and check for continuity between those ends.

    Do you have an accurate wiring schematic for this stove.

    Maybe someone else here would know, is the neutral for the auger motor connected to the control box only on this stove or does it connect to the main neutral return?

    Is it possible to back probe the connectors for the auger and igniter feeds right at the control box with your voltmeter and check for voltage during start up?
    It makes sense to me to test at the source and bypass everything else if you can.

    With the stove unplugged, I would again check the control box plug for tight connections, on each and every wire just to be sure.
    Also verify each wire has continuity thru to the connector with your meter while wiggling the wires . I have seen where the wire has fried away from the contact, but still held on around the insulation.
     
  12. Harvey Schneider

    Harvey Schneider
    Minister of Fire 2.
    NULL
    

    Oct 9, 2012
    1,321
    322
    Loc:
    Southbury, CT
    You are assuming a level of competence that may be disappointed.
     
    tjnamtiw likes this.
  13. bflat

    bflat
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Mar 21, 2014
    8
    0
    Loc:
    Wisconsin
    When you say you bypassed the thermostat, does the connection your making stay in contact the whole time when starting the stove for sure?
    If you make a quick on/off connection with the thermostat at start up, only the exhaust blower will run for 10-15 min and then shut off.

    I know this sounds simple but I'm going to ask anyway.
    Are you unplugging the stove between tests, and then plugging it in each time and testing right away to see if the auger is feeding?

    Do you have the thermostat terminals connected in any way when you are plugging it in?

    I don't know for sure on your stove, but my quad, when first plugging it in goes thru a 10 to 15 min purge cycle by running (Only) the exhaust blower, no auger or igniter and then stops.
    It is then ready to turn on with the thermostat.

    I also don't know what the stove would do if I already had the thermostat calling for heat while plugging it in, as I have never done it.

    With the thermostat off, and when you first plug it in, does the exhaust blower run for awhile and then shut off.
     
  14. Bkins

    Bkins
    Minister of Fire 2.
    NULL
    

    Mar 16, 2009
    623
    42
    Loc:
    Jersey Shore
    I'm going to make a suggestion bflat. The poster is easily confused and is being helped by two very good stove people, Kap, and Tj. It would be helpful not to have someone new jump in on page 9 and after more then 200 posts to try to help. It doesn't sound as though you have read the thread from the beginning. It may answer some of your questions.

    Lots of people are watching this and have stayed out of the conversation just as to not confuse 93 any more.

    I certainly didn't mean to slight Harvey. He hasn't jumped in as often but when he has what he has said was important and to the point on this stove.

    There are a lot of very, very good forum members here willing to help anyone willing to help themselves. If their suggestions are followed, step by step, you will get the stove back up and running. Way to go people.
     
    tjnamtiw likes this.
  15. rafmt

    rafmt
    Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Dec 5, 2013
    49
    14
    Loc:
    North central montana
    I must give some praise to Kap and TJ. Your help so far on this thread has been very generous. Frustrating at times....but a learning experience to myself and many other that are watching this. I am hopeful this stove can get fixed. The journey has been interesting to watch.
     
    DMKNLD and tjnamtiw like this.
  16. gfreek

    gfreek
    Minister of Fire 2.
    NULL
    

    Nov 5, 2010
    1,028
    109
    Loc:
    Beautiful Attica/Varysburg,New York
    I agree...Quiet today though
     
  17. bflat

    bflat
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Mar 21, 2014
    8
    0
    Loc:
    Wisconsin
    Point taken, I hope I didn't offend anyone.
    I did read all the posts though, and I just thought I could offer some help.
    Your right, 93 doesn't need to be confused further than he already is.
     
  18. kappel15

    kappel15
    Minister of Fire 2.
    NULL
    

    Sep 14, 2014
    1,630
    344
    Loc:
    Iowa
    Harvey Schneider has contributed a great deal to help this problem also. kap
     
  19. pelletstove93

    pelletstove93
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Dec 7, 2014
    95
    1
    Loc:
    virginia
    I have the two wire version that is not adjustable. Yes its connected at both ends.
     
  20. pelletstove93

    pelletstove93
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Dec 7, 2014
    95
    1
    Loc:
    virginia
    I want to thank everyone for the advice. I didn't expect such a tremendous amount of information. When stumped I usually watch a YouTube video or read a post on the topic I'm having issues with and fix my problem. Can't find a YouTube videos or post specific to my issues so I turned to this site. I am glad I did! I've leaned a lot not just about this stove but about wiring in general, it may not seem like it to some!! I will post later today watch step I'm proceeding with. I'm think I have some connectors that are not making good connections since I can get 2 readings in some by probing down the middle making direct contact with wire with good voltage as opposed to probing the connector it's self and getting anywhere from 0 to 6 volts. Have an hvac friend that I called who in turn gave me his electrical guy who happens to be a guy I went to school with and grew up just a few blocks from one another. I hope he can come by and verify this final things so I can get what I need. The terminal on the vac switch ( red wire terminal ) is black by the way. No others are.If vac switch is ok as well as snap discs and harness seems fine I will get the control box. And cross my fingers.
     
  21. kappel15

    kappel15
    Minister of Fire 2.
    NULL
    

    Sep 14, 2014
    1,630
    344
    Loc:
    Iowa
    Keep us posted. Good luck. kap
     
  22. pelletstove93

    pelletstove93
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Dec 7, 2014
    95
    1
    Loc:
    virginia
    Thought I had found a broken wire in wiring harness but after studying the wiring diagram it shows the wires in question a blue wire, connects with one of the igniter wires in the female connector. So it shows continuity on the igniter wire and not in the blue wire I was checking. So I believe it's down to the control box. I tested it and have stand by voltage but it doesn't increase when it should. Looks like a control box is next.Thanks
     
  23. pelletstove93

    pelletstove93
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Dec 7, 2014
    95
    1
    Loc:
    virginia
    Ordering a control box, will update after receiving it. Thanks all
     
  24. pelletstove93

    pelletstove93
    New Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Dec 7, 2014
    95
    1
    Loc:
    virginia
    Ok guys it's fixed!!!! It was a simple fix after all just had to find it. Reset switch has 3 prongs on it but only has 2 wires connected to it. One blade was a dummy ( 2 including me ). I had one wire wrong. I had asked about that earlier on and Harvey had told me how to test it but in all the commotion I didn't follow thru with his advice. And bit did it cost me!! A new control box I didn't not need. Why they have a 3rd dummy blade I don't know but I'll never forget that it does and now all if you know just in case. Thank you all so much and hope you all had a great Christmas and have a great new year!!!!

    For sale: 1 new control box cheap, lol. Seriously
     
  25. kappel15

    kappel15
    Minister of Fire 2.
    NULL
    

    Sep 14, 2014
    1,630
    344
    Loc:
    Iowa
    Glad you are up and running after this long ordeal. This is why it can be so frustrating trying to fix a stove over the internet. You don't know what has been fixed or not, right or wrong, without being there. At least you know your stove a lot better then you did, and you can stay warm. I hope you get the control box sold if you don't want to keep it for a spare. kap
     
    DMKNLD likes this.

Share This Page