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Posted By pelletstove93,
Dec 7, 2014 at 12:32 PM
Auger isn't jammed, checked that can turn it by hand.
From the manual ....
Now, lets see ....
1. Does the stove do what is described in a ? Combustion motor run for 10 mins and then turn off ?
2. Do you get a red light when you follow the instructions in b ?
3. Do pellets get fed into burn pot if you follow instructions in d ?
OK, now the next part below .......
It takes 15 minutes for the convection blowers to turn on, that is why they did not turn on when you did a manual start, unless there is something else wrong with the stove, but the only way to find that out is to see if the auger is feeding fuel for 20 minutes or more to make these come on.
White and black wires in the picture ...... not connected to anything ..... where did these go ? Hmmm !
Yes to a, b and no to d.
And those two wires in the picture you posted ?
So, the convection fans didn't come on cause the stove didn't get hot enough. Now, go to my first post on this page and follow those instructions. Let us know how it goes. kap
kap ...... the auger does not seem to be feeding fuel ...... so he needs to find out if it's getting told to turn on to feed fuel.
From the manual ....
5. VACUUM SWITCH
A. The vacuum switch is located on the left side of the insert, adjacent to the feed motor. To access, you must remove the left side panel. This switch turns the feed system on when vacuum is present in the firebox.
B. If the exhaust or the heat exchanger system is dirty or plugged, the vacuum switch will keep the feed system from starting.
C. If the firebox door is open, the vacuum switch will keep the feed system from starting.
He also needs to check on those two wires in the photo above.
Ok I did jump vac switch when you asked me to. Had no effect. Do I jump #2 #3 at same time or individually
Wife's sick got fun down street for her and I'll follow new instructions. The wires on anger have been working for 3 years so I'm guessing they were in right place. White wire is fed straight from power cord so yes it has power but black wire feeds from vac switch I think is how I read it. Am I understanding path?
Jumping the vac switch should have done the trick and kicked the auger on to feed once you pressed the reset button as in the instructions for d
If this did not work, you have a bad connection somewhere between the vac switch and the auger motor.
Why are those two wires not plugged into anything ..... are they the power leads for the auger motor ?
The white wire should be the neutral/ground. It's not the feed. Snap disk #3 SHOULD be the stove safety that will shut down ALL power in an overfire condition. The fact that your combustion motor runs and the convection motors run (when snap disk #1 is jumped) tells you that snap disk #3 is good. Earlier, I believe you were measuring voltage across the disk and not connection to chassis ground, as you should have been. In any event, #3 is OK and doesn't need to be jumped.
Snap disk #2 should be closed. If you check it for continuity, you should see zero ohms. It should be wired in line with the vacuum switch and the auger motor. Check that out. If it is not closed (zero ohms), then that's your problem. A wire should be going from the other side of the vacuum switch to the snap disk #2 if your schematic is what we are all ASSUMING.
Let's not add to the confusion here! On Quads, there's a safety snap disk in line with the vac switch and auger motor and IT could be the problem. Maybe this is not the case with Ashley's. Let's talk Quadish, not Ashleyish.
Granted that he still has not told us what those two wires are doing hanging bare and obviously burned.
If those two wires are the leads that power the auger motor, you need to see if the black wire that goes to the auger motor has voltage with the vac switch bypassed (wires jumped).
Also, you need to make sure that you have just enough bare wire to go down in those connector holes to make a good contact to supply power to the motor. The casing on the white wire looks to be a little burnt ... possible arcing.
Hmm ! I guess you not been reading my posts ! I've been following the manual for his stove to try and help find the problem and not my manual so lets cut all the bullish out eh !
I don't want to get in a pissing contest with you while we are trying to help this guy. He has NO schematic to work with since his manual has none. I have given him a link to get it but he hasn't done that yet. We know he has 3 snap disks and we are assuming since it is a Quad that it's wired like a Quad as far as how 1,2, and 3 control the stove. #2 is in line with the vac switch on other quads. Just because he jumps the vac switch doesn't guarantee continuity IF snap disk #2 is open. The manual for his stove is pretty crude and doesn't delve very deeply into electrical troubleshooting.
So why start the pissing contest with your comments ?
BECAUSE we have had so many posts this year from people needing help for a specific brand of stove. We try to help them through a series of troubleshooting steps but, invariably, a half a dozen other people jump in and offer advice that doesn't relate to the stove in question. I see where you are coming from but you didn't obviously know about the snap disc and could have led him down the wrong path without first checking the snap disk.
ENOUGH! Back to helping him, PLEASE,
Tj I got the technical Manuel right after you posted it. Been using it every since, I posted a big thank you for it because it has a wealth of information. But even using it I'm having issues . Yes that white wire did arch against auger motor and stopped feed 2 winters ago. I pulled it up n it stopped, but with time n vibration from fans it may have ached more often. Will check ohms on #2 now, be right back
Since I ASSUME the white wire follows convention and is the neutral, if it isn't making good contact, the circuit wouldn't be complete and the motor wouldn't run, even if you measure voltage as good to ground at each point on the way to the motor.
So, if he bypasses snap disc #2, the igniter and the auger should work ?
And if it does not, where does he go from there ?
The auger should work but the igniter is not in the same circuit at all. That's assuming that the white wire is making contact in the motor.
I thought you were excited about the schematic of the auger motor! ha ha ha.
Is there any way that you can post that schematic or emailing it to Kap and I? It would sure help at our end to help you.
OK, so if he gets the auger to work correctly, he can use the stove, but will have to start it manually.
yep, as long as the #1 snap disk works to start the fans. AND he doesn't have to jump the vacuum switch. That would be unsafe for continuous use.
Ok if I did it right, couldn't find my friend who meter this is to see which ohm setting to use. I got 0000, next checked continuity and had continuity thru switch. I'm guessing that means the switch is open and should be closed?
I'm watching with morbid curiosity. It isn't even clear what problem the op is trying to solve. It started as an igniter issue, became a blower problem, no the blower is working, and now.... The auger isn't running?
If I damaged the igniter wiring I wouldn't expect that the vac switch or snap disks spontaneously and simultaneously failed. It is far more likely that a wire has been dislodged somewhere for all the poking around in the box.