I would have thought most people side load the F600, but maybe not? Have you tried an F55?
Quadrafire Explorer 3 or Hearthstone Manchester?
- Thread starter billfred
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AppleRock
Member
Bill, I agree with Begreen. You should consider the F55 as well.
I have also been looking for a rather long time. Have a rather size-able spreadsheet to show for it.
I'll also disclose that the Exp3, the PE T6 (like begreen's), the and the Jotul F55 are my current top choices.
But I' address some of your points:
1. Keep in mind that the Manchester and the Exp 3 are very different stoves. Full cast iron w/soapstone firebrick vs a welded steel stove w/a cast iron "jacket". (think begreen already explained this tho. I'm old......thats my excuse & I'm sticking to it)
2. If you plan on loading the Exp 3 N/S, it'll have to be with short splints. 14"-15" tops. 15" would be pretty close to the glass.
3. The Exp 3 and Manchester are both very large fireboxes, but BOTH are narrow and wide. Both will require long splints in order to fully take advantage of their sq ft. Also, with the firebox fully loaded expect wood(and coals/ash) to roll up against the front glass doors. Both address this by providing side or top loading.
I think the more square fireboxes of the T6 & F55 can be better utilized with 16"-18" splints.
That all being said, the heat exchanger of the Manchester is intriguing. I know, not helpful.
I have also been looking for a rather long time. Have a rather size-able spreadsheet to show for it.
I'll also disclose that the Exp3, the PE T6 (like begreen's), the and the Jotul F55 are my current top choices.
But I' address some of your points:
1. Keep in mind that the Manchester and the Exp 3 are very different stoves. Full cast iron w/soapstone firebrick vs a welded steel stove w/a cast iron "jacket". (think begreen already explained this tho. I'm old......thats my excuse & I'm sticking to it)
2. If you plan on loading the Exp 3 N/S, it'll have to be with short splints. 14"-15" tops. 15" would be pretty close to the glass.
3. The Exp 3 and Manchester are both very large fireboxes, but BOTH are narrow and wide. Both will require long splints in order to fully take advantage of their sq ft. Also, with the firebox fully loaded expect wood(and coals/ash) to roll up against the front glass doors. Both address this by providing side or top loading.
I think the more square fireboxes of the T6 & F55 can be better utilized with 16"-18" splints.
That all being said, the heat exchanger of the Manchester is intriguing. I know, not helpful.
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AppleRock
Member
It's not. The Manchester is a true cast iron stove. The Explorer is a cast iron jacketed steel stove.
Well, this thread has been informative. OP, once you decide on a stove, please post pics of your install. Based upon recommendations in another thread I started, I am looking at the Manchester, Explorer III, and the Jotul 600. I am not a big fan of the double doors on the Jotul 600.
Looks like my issue is going to be that the room it will be located in is a 2 story great room. Guessing I might have problems keeping the heat on the main floor.
Looks like my issue is going to be that the room it will be located in is a 2 story great room. Guessing I might have problems keeping the heat on the main floor.
AppleRock
Member
Correct.
F55 front load only.
F50 front & top load.
I don't know of any front & side load cast iron jacketed stove that's non-cat . I'd be interested in that as well. Perhaps others could confirm.
AppleRock
Member
That's what I thought as well. Though thought I read a thread on here some time ago the claimed that it was. I guess I should have stuck with my gut instinct.
AppleRock
Member
Take into consideration how long you're going to cut your firewood. In order for any of these stoves you mentioned to be utilized to their full capacity, your splints are going to have to be 22 to 24 inches long. 16-18 inch long pieces will leave a lot of empty space in those wide ~3 SQ ft fireboxes without some interesting loading techniques, that would prob result in firewood falling against the glass sometime during the burn.
Personally, my log splitter can only split 18" long pieces. So, that's my limit. Ain't buying a new log splitter.
bushman
Burning Hunk
If I was to buy a new stove between the Manchester and the Explorer III for me it would be the Hearthstone Manchester.
I did have good luck with the Hearthstone Bennington which is a little smaller and had double doors in front. The side loader was pretty neat too. The Bennington is very similar to the Manchester and is still offered in Europe along with the Manchester by Hergom, Hearthstones parent company.
I had a Quadrafire Isle Royale which was great but, my wife & kids HATED the smoke that would slip out. I parted with that stove only for that reason alone but, it was a problem and no more top loaders for me.
Hearthstone has improved the latching mechanism on the doors so they dont grind away, now the doors have a roller type latch, much nicer and very stout.
I am not sold on the steel box jacketed by cast iron of the Explorer III, I think any convective surrounds cut down on radiant blast that works for me. I ran an Alderlea T5 and did not like it, same setup or similar.
Some folks like that just fine, not for me.
I did have good luck with the Hearthstone Bennington which is a little smaller and had double doors in front. The side loader was pretty neat too. The Bennington is very similar to the Manchester and is still offered in Europe along with the Manchester by Hergom, Hearthstones parent company.
I had a Quadrafire Isle Royale which was great but, my wife & kids HATED the smoke that would slip out. I parted with that stove only for that reason alone but, it was a problem and no more top loaders for me.
Hearthstone has improved the latching mechanism on the doors so they dont grind away, now the doors have a roller type latch, much nicer and very stout.
I am not sold on the steel box jacketed by cast iron of the Explorer III, I think any convective surrounds cut down on radiant blast that works for me. I ran an Alderlea T5 and did not like it, same setup or similar.
Some folks like that just fine, not for me.
Current splitter can split up to 30", but I use a stop on it to limit it to 24"/ Current furnace burns 24" logs, so I have been cutting them close to that for the past 6 years. Biggest difference between a stove and the furnace is that I am going to have to make the splits smaller. The pieces I toss into the furnace are thick.
AppleRock
Member
Another thing to consider, and most often overlooked with the excitement of a new stove purchase, is that someday, it will require replacement parts. Look at the parts lists of the stoves, get part numbers and check pricing. A quick Google search of the part number will give you an idea, so you don't have a stroke later on down the road. Things like secondary air tubes, baffles and firebrick/soapstones (and cats in place of air tubes for cat stoves) will all need replacing one day. Both of the stoves mentioned here have pretty pricey replacement parts mentioned above. Should this discourage you from purchasing a stove? No. Just be aware of these costs up front. (I'm cheap, and like to know these things).
For an ex: (not like you're considering either of these stoves), but in cat stoves, a cat replacement for a Lopi Cape Cod is over $400. One for a Woodstock Progress is $150. Big difference. Something I'd like to know before a purchase, and not find out later.
Some parts are irrelevant. Such as a new bottom pan, or a new door. Those aren't really what I'd consider "normal" replacement parts. (Like replacing the brakes or the exhaust on your car, are expected to wear out and be replaced. Unlike say, your transmission. Prob "new car" time.
)
Also take very long warranty coverage with a grain of salt. If the baffles have a "lifetime" warranty, assume that after 6-10 yrs, you will need to purchase the replacement. If the manufacturer covers it, great. But don't expect it. Not trying to sound cynical, just realistic.
For an ex: (not like you're considering either of these stoves), but in cat stoves, a cat replacement for a Lopi Cape Cod is over $400. One for a Woodstock Progress is $150. Big difference. Something I'd like to know before a purchase, and not find out later.
Some parts are irrelevant. Such as a new bottom pan, or a new door. Those aren't really what I'd consider "normal" replacement parts. (Like replacing the brakes or the exhaust on your car, are expected to wear out and be replaced. Unlike say, your transmission. Prob "new car" time.
)Also take very long warranty coverage with a grain of salt. If the baffles have a "lifetime" warranty, assume that after 6-10 yrs, you will need to purchase the replacement. If the manufacturer covers it, great. But don't expect it. Not trying to sound cynical, just realistic.
Another thing to consider, and most often overlooked with the excitement of a new stove purchase, is that someday, it will require replacement parts. Look at the parts lists of the stoves, get part numbers and check pricing. A quick Google search of the part number will give you an idea, so you don't have a stroke later on down the road. Things like secondary air tubes, baffles and firebrick/soapstones (and cats in place of air tubes for cat stoves) will all need replacing one day. Both of the stoves mentioned here have pretty pricey replacement parts mentioned above. Should this discourage you from purchasing a stove? No. Just be aware of these costs up front. (I'm cheap, and like to know these things).
For an ex: (not like you're considering either of these stoves), but in cat stoves, a cat replacement for a Lopi Cape Cod is over $400. One for a Woodstock Progress is $150. Big difference. Something I'd like to know before a purchase, and not find out later.
Some parts are irrelevant. Such as a new bottom pan, or a new door. Those aren't really what I'd consider "normal" replacement parts. (Like replacing the brakes or the exhaust on your car, are expected to wear out and be replaced. Unlike say, your transmission. Prob "new car" time.
Also take very long warranty coverage with a grain of salt. If the baffles have a "lifetime" warranty, assume that after 6-10 yrs, you will need to purchase the replacement. If the manufacturer covers it, great. But don't expect it. Not trying to sound cynical, just realistic.
I was just coming here to ask about the Woodstock Progress Hybrid.
What does everybody think about Woodstock stoves? They look pretty nice, I like the charcoal color option, I like the rear vent option, I like the efficiency, I like the side load door, and I like the btus this thing puts out. Is there any reason to shy away from a Woodstock?
As far as replacement parts are concerned, I've been down that road with the furnace I currently have. Replacement firebrick and something like $15 a brick. Replacement grate at something like $90. Replacement fire proof gasket at something like $5. What really makes replacement parts somewhat expensive is the shipping cost. Shipping the firebrick and the grate was expensive, so I made sure they fit as much into the box as possible.
Woodstock makes very good stoves. They are a small company and sell customer direct. They provide excellent customer service and have a unique 6 month return policy. The Progress Hybrid is very efficient and not hard on the eyes either.
AppleRock
Member
No reason to shy away from the PH at all. Woodstock (and esp the PH) has been given very high praise here.
Just be aware that it is side load only. (either side-your preference I think)
No front or top load. It's a "hybrid" stove, so it has secondary "tubes"(though more like a plate on the PH) and a cat. Saw it at the factory. Looks nice. I just didn't care for the side load only. I like a side load option, but would like front access as well. I'm finicky (guess you could add that to cheap)
Just be aware that it is side load only. (either side-your preference I think)
No front or top load. It's a "hybrid" stove, so it has secondary "tubes"(though more like a plate on the PH) and a cat. Saw it at the factory. Looks nice. I just didn't care for the side load only. I like a side load option, but would like front access as well. I'm finicky (guess you could add that to cheap)
lol - I am very particular and very cheap. I had to factory order my Expedition because not a single dealer on the east coast had exactly what I was looking for. Not a single one had a Limited without the $3,000 navigation system in it. Now, I will pay for quality, but I will try to get quality as cheap as possible. As an example, I got $11k off the sticker price on the Expedition.
As far as the Woodstock PH is concerned, I am completely fine with side load only. I have no desire to use a top load function. The wood will most likely be stored on the right side of the stove because the door to the deck will be to the left of the stove. Now, I am off to find some pics/video of the stove being used.
The one front-load stove I had, the Buck 91, would absolutely broil you if you had the door open for any length of time with coals in the box. I like side load on my other stoves because they load E-W, and it's convenient to build loads from the side. You can even bail out and unload a split or two if you don't like the way things are going, or can see a way to pack it tighter. I often try to get as much as I can in my small fireboxes..
AppleRock
Member
I may be half-baked at times but never broiled. Another reason why I like loading N/S. I front load twice a day, most of the time without gloves.
Well yeah, I was talking about front loading, N-S. But the most intense broiling of me took place if I had the door open, shoving ash down the dump, and still had a pretty big coal bed left.
Side loading, the only reason I use gloves is to prevent slivers if I'm handling a big, heavy split.
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