Quadrafire Yosemite Overfire

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LAndrim

Member
Jan 1, 2011
94
Outside of Philly
HI Everyone,

I have a small Quadrafire Yosemite wood stove that has served me well over the years. Lately I can't seem to regulate the air...I get raging fires.

After the fire gets going, I pull the two air knobs out all the way, but the fires still rages. They both fully extend out and they are not stuck; they have full movement in and out. Also, I've checked the ash door underneath to make sure it is fully closing, and it is.

Any suggestions? I know it is bad news to have fires raging that I can't control.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
Examine the stove door gaskets closely to see if they are leaking. If it passes the dollar bill test check to see if the gasket cement is starting to fail.
 
HI Everyone,

I have a small Quadrafire Yosemite wood stove that has served me well over the years. Lately I can't seem to regulate the air...I get raging fires.

After the fire gets going, I pull the two air knobs out all the way, but the fires still rages. They both fully extend out and they are not stuck; they have full movement in and out. Also, I've checked the ash door underneath to make sure it is fully closing, and it is.

Any suggestions? I know it is bad news to have fires raging that I can't control.

Thanks in advance for any help!
Examine the stove door gaskets closely to see if they are leaking. If it passes the dollar bill test check to see if the gasket cement is starting to fail.

Thanks much BEGREEN, but the gaskets are good. It seems that the air intake knobs move in and out, but they don't have any effect on the fire...it just rages to a dangerous level. Pulling the air intake all the way out has no effect...still massive flames. Any other suggestions? I won't use the stove now until I figure this out. Thanks much!
 
I'm not familiar with your stove. Check to see if the actuators have somehow detached from the controls they are suppose to be actuating. Also check any ash doors or other sources of air that could be entering uncontrolled. Do the dollar bill test all around the units door. Clean the stove inside and inspect to ensure there are no cracks or gaps in the box. If this is a stove with a baffle, inspect the baffle to ensure it is intact and not cracked, broken or deteriorated.
 
Thanks much BEGREEN, but the gaskets are good. It seems that the air intake knobs move in and out, but they don't have any effect on the fire...it just rages to a dangerous level. Pulling the air intake all the way out has no effect...still massive flames. Any other suggestions? I won't use the stove now until I figure this out. Thanks much!
The reason I mentioned the gaskets is that is what failed on our stove, in spite of looking great. It was a two part problem. One, I had replaced the gasket with a non-factory rutland gasket and I used Meeco gasket adhesive which lost its adherence after about a year and a half use. It passed the dollar bill test, but eventually started leaking around the gasket due to the failed adhesive. Then one day it actually came out of the channel when loading! Besides the front and side door make sure the ash door is able to seal tightly. If there is buildup behind the ash pan it can push the pan forward against the door, preventing it from closing tight.

If all checks out ok, then go next to the start up air control. I don't have this stove and it has been years since I've looked at one in person. Where does the start up air get introduced? Can you locate the actual valve and orifice for this control? Other issues might be a change in the wood species burned or the size of the splits?
 
I'm not familiar with your stove. Check to see if the actuators have somehow detached from the controls they are suppose to be actuating. Also check any ash doors or other sources of air that could be entering uncontrolled. Do the dollar bill test all around the units door. Clean the stove inside and inspect to ensure there are no cracks or gaps in the box. If this is a stove with a baffle, inspect the baffle to ensure it is intact and not cracked, broken or deteriorated.
Thanks much fir the reply...none of the above are at fault. I guess I'll have to bring in the tech from where I bought the stove...bummer!
 
The reason I mentioned the gaskets is that is what failed on our stove, in spite of looking great. It was a two part problem. One, I had replaced the gasket with a non-factory rutland gasket and I used Meeco gasket adhesive which lost its adherence after about a year and a half use. It passed the dollar bill test, but eventually started leaking around the gasket due to the failed adhesive. Then one day it actually came out of the channel when loading! Besides the front and side door make sure the ash door is able to seal tightly. If there is buildup behind the ash pan it can push the pan forward against the door, preventing it from closing tight.

If all checks out ok, then go next to the start up air control. I don't have this stove and it has been years since I've looked at one in person. Where does the start up air get introduced? Can you locate the actual valve and orifice for this control? Other issues might be a change in the wood species burned or the size of the splits?

Hi begreen,
After checking all of the above, I'm convinced it's the control, and maybe it's come off of it's housing. No way I can fix this...I'll have to bring in the tech from where I bought it. Thanks for your help!
 
Keep us posted on what they find out.
 
If the stove has cemented seams, the cement could be failing and letting excess air in. At startup, if you cut the air and there's a lot of smoke in the box, do you sometimes see flames shooting from any of the seams? Or when the stove is drafting well in cold weather, have you used incense or a lighter to see if air is being pulled in somewhere?
 
i have the same stove at home. i'm at work until 4 or so but i could take pics or a video of the action the 2 knobs have, if that would help?
mine are working fine.
 
If the stove has cemented seams, the cement could be failing and letting excess air in. At startup, if you cut the air and there's a lot of smoke in the box, do you sometimes see flames shooting from any of the seams? Or when the stove is drafting well in cold weather, have you used incense or a lighter to see if air is being pulled in somewhere?
IIRC the Yosemite is a cast iron clad steel stove.
 
IIRC the Yosemite is a cast iron clad steel stove.
Without posting pictures let me tell you that the startup air linkage travels to the very rear of the stove. There is a visible lever hanging there. Right is open, left closed

The secondary air linkage goes directly into a slot on the bottom of the stove and as I'm burning now I can't inspect it.
 
If the stove has cemented seams, the cement could be failing and letting excess air in. At startup, if you cut the air and there's a lot of smoke in the box, do you sometimes see flames shooting from any of the seams? Or when the stove is drafting well in cold weather, have you used incense or a lighter to see if air is being pulled in somewhere?
Hi Woody, Thanks much for the reply! No cement issues. The problem is I can't cut or add air.It seems the air intake is not working. This is beyond my pay grade...will need to bring someone in.Thanks so much for reply!
 
Without posting pictures let me tell you that the startup air linkage travels to the very rear of the stove. There is a visible lever hanging there. Right is open, left closed

The secondary air linkage goes directly into a slot on the bottom of the stove and as I'm burning now I can't inspect it.
Hi mtbmike,
Thanks for the reply. Since you have my stove, you know about the two air intake levers. The rear one I can easily get to; it is fine. The front air intake is the one that is not working. It is in a permanently "open" position. I looked under the stove and can't access this front lever, I think it has come off of its mechanism. Very much above my pay grade to access and repair. Sadly, I'll have to pay to have a tech come in. Thanks much for your reply!