Question About My Chimney I Installed

[jstnvllnv]

This is the outdoor section of new selkirk I installed in my shop. Does anyone know if that bracket I installed will cause any issues for WETT cert? I still used the orginal base plate from the factory bracket. Its all 1/8" angle. Pretty sure I could park a car on it. Its got close to 10 3" stainless lag bolts through studs holding it to the wall. The length running into the shop is 36".

 

[bholler]

View attachment 299507

This is the outdoor section of new selkirk I installed in my shop. Does anyone know if that bracket I installed will cause any issues for WETT cert? I still used the orginal base plate from the factory bracket. Its all 1/8" angle. Pretty sure I could park a car on it. Its got close to 10 3" stainless lag bolts through studs holding it to the wall. The length running into the shop is 36". View attachment 299508

It should not pass inspection because the system isn't entirely made from listed components

 

[stoveliker]

Is The clearance to the roof 2"?

 

[jstnvllnv]

Is The clearance to the roof 2"?

It is yes

 

[begreen]

It's going to depend on the inspector. We have had similar installation pass in the past, but IIRC they were US installs.

I am concerned about the 36" horiz. chimney section tying into a short chimney. That's going to slow down the draft. It looks like there is about 13' outside. Add the two 90º turns in the flue path and this could be a fussy setup for many stoves. Effectively it could act like an 8' tall chimney. What stove will be connected to it?

 

[jstnvllnv]

It's going to depend on the inspector. We have had similar installation pass in the past, but IIRC they were US installs.

I am concerned about the 36" horiz. chimney section tying into a short chimney. That's going to slow down the draft. It looks like there is about 13' outside. Add the two 90º turns in the flue path and this could be a fussy setup for many stoves. Effectively it could act like an 8' tall chimney. What stove will be connected to it?

Going to have a True North TN20 inside. Also another 4ft inside hopefully that helps. If I have to, ill add a couple extra sections with a roof support. I also thought that the the measurement for the height of the chimney starts from the floor the appliance sits on?

 

[begreen]

4ft inside will help. The TN 20 is an easy breather, but it still requires 12' of stack as measured from the stovetop to the cap. That would be straight up. The 36" horiz. section plus 2 90º turns will slow things down quite a bit. That said, it's worth a try to see how it works, it may be ok or more pipe may be needed.

 

[jstnvllnv]

4ft inside will help. The TN 20 is an easy breather, but it still requires 12' of stack as measured from the stovetop to the cap. That would be straight up. The 36" horiz. section plus 2 90º turns will slow things down quite a bit. That said, it's worth a try to see how it works, it may be ok or more pipe may be needed.

Sounds good begreen, fingers crossed and here is hoping. Thanks for the info 🤘.

 

[DonTee]

I had a similar setup last year. My inspector was ok with it, but the long horizontal section was too much of a creosote trap over the winter.

This year I mounted the chimney bracket on the house where it should be, and used two 30 degree angle sections of pipe to clear the eve

 

[jstnvllnv]

I had a similar setup last year. My inspector was ok with it, but the long horizontal section was too much of a creosote trap over the winter.

This year I mounted the chimney bracket on the house where it should be, and used two 30 degree angle sections of pipe to clear the eve

Yah I was planning on doing that but the selkirk I bought for some reason only allowed for bends inside the attic. I wish I went with Duravent vent since they allow bends outside.

 

[DonTee]

I wonder what the difference is between in the attic and outside. I mean the pipe is the same. Maybe they’re worried about enough support outside?

I went with Duravent because it was cheaper in my area. Glad I did, because I didn’t know that about Selkirk. That’s the brand we’ve always used before, but just for straight up runs.

 

[begreen]

Yah I was planning on doing that but the selkirk I bought for some reason only allowed for bends inside the attic. I wish I went with Duravent vent since they allow bends outside.

Are you sure? The last time I checked they said only for interior (attic) use because the offset needs to be supported with straps to the adjacent joists.

 

[DonTee]

In the Duravent FAQ it says you can use elbows to go around an eave

(broken link removed to https://duravent.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/DP_FAQ_W.pdf)

 

[begreen]

Thank you. That's interesting and the first time I have seen this doc. My inquiry was maybe 5-6 yrs ago and they said no-go. I just checked the DuraPlus installation guide and it makes no mention of eaves or exterior offsets. Same for the DuraTech guide. Installation illustrations show support strapping off of the joist above. The docs insist on a strapping to support the elbows. What part of the house does one attach these straps to if exterior?

 

[DonTee]

I didn’t use the support strap when I installed my angled sections. I did use a regular mounting bracket on the section right below and right above the angled pieces. It seems pretty sturdy, but it would be nice to incorporate the strap somehow.

I did contact Duravent to see what they say about just using wall brackets instead of the strap bracket. I’ll give an update when I hear back from them.

Using the angled sections to go around the eave is very common in my area. I’ll have to look at some other chimneys to see how they did it. My inspector is happy with how mine looks, but I want to verify with the manufacturer too.
If I have to, I can find a way to put the strap on. Wait, did that come out wrong?

 

[Riverbanks]

Lol, I think the way you did it is perfect, maybe have someone help to lift some chimney weight before tightening the bracket? I.e., unstress the elbow?

 

[begreen]

I contacted DuraVent tech support too. Clearing eaves is a common problem and this is a frequent question here. It would be good to have documented, outdoor instructions, especially if the company's position has changed.

For yuks I checked Excel's & Ventis's install docs. They too only mention and show interior installs with an offset. Supervent/Selkirk specifically say interior only.

Another alternative is to notch the eave to clear the chimney. That permits a less expensive and better, straight up chimney install. The best is to go straight up through the interior of the house.

 

[Riverbanks]

I'll double down on Don's statement, it is a common application around here, too