Question on venting Leyden 4" output in back

[richkorn]

I have a Leyden freestanding stove that is connected to a T in the rear and then vented up (inside existing prefab flue) 25ft using a 4" ForeverFlex liner to the top cap.

It looks to me that the installers inserted the 4" T horizontal section "INSIDE" the 4" Leyden vent opening in the rear and then wrapped black painted aluminum tape around it. This doesn't seem right to me. Doesn't all vent pipe or even house septic drains insert INTO the next piece so there is no leakage?

It seems to me that the T adapter should have had one end piece adapter that went OVER the 4" vent output on the stove and then INTO the 4" T horizontal piece.

Am I correct in assuming this?

If so, How do i fix this and what sort of part (DuraVent?) do I need that can go OVER the stove 4" output and then INTO the 4" T adapter horizontal section? I plan on moving out my stove 2-4 inches from where it is because there isn't even enough room in the rear to get a stubby screw driver in the back to take off the rear panel. So if I add an adapter it would work out fine.

Also, the T inserts INTO the foreverFlex liner at the top and that seam is wrapped with aluminum tape, no issues there.

Feedback is really appreciated on this!

Rich.

 

[richkorn]

It does work, but I need to pull the stove out 2-4" anyway and don't think there's enough slack there to pull it forward without an adapter. An adapter might fix it so it's right also.

 

[defield]

Rickhorn,

I believe that you are correct. We have been burning wood in stoves and wood boilers for more than 30 years. For safety, the way that the natural or forced draft flows should determine which fitting goes inside or outside the next to help prevent leakage of gasses.

We have a Lopi Leyden and had a reputable stove shop do the install as we wanted to be it was done correctly.

Similar to your install, the stove sits in front of the fireplace opening, with a connector pipe to a "T" with clean out cap, and then vertical 4" flexible stainless to the chimney top. ( Traditional Cape Cod, about 23" vertical.)

The connector between the stove and the "T" fits over the stove's exhaust thimble and is held in place with three sheet metal screws.

The install was done through the Frost and Flame stove shop in Gorham, Maine ( frostandflame.com) I am sure they could supply vendor and part number information.

Long term, I would not be comfortable with the flue pipe installed inside the stove's thimble. Short term, OK if no smoke odor is detected.

 

[richkorn]

Rickhorn,

I believe that you are correct. We have been burning wood in stoves and wood boilers for more than 30 years. For safety, the way that the natural or forced draft flows should determine which fitting goes inside or outside the next to help prevent leakage of gasses.

We have a Lopi Leyden and had a reputable stove shop do the install as we wanted to be it was done correctly.

Similar to your install, the stove sits in front of the fireplace opening, with a connector pipe to a "T" with clean out cap, and then vertical 4" flexible stainless to the chimney top. ( Traditional Cape Cod, about 23" vertical.)

The connector between the stove and the "T" fits over the stove's exhaust thimble and is held in place with three sheet metal screws.

The install was done through the Frost and Flame stove shop in Gorham, Maine ( frostandflame.com) I am sure they could supply vendor and part number information.

Long term, I would not be comfortable with the flue pipe installed inside the stove's thimble. Short term, OK if no smoke odor is detected.

old ranger,

Do you happen to know what the brand is of the appliance adapter and T used on your stove?

Also, how is the T attached to the flex pipe?

I might just redo mine this summer with what I feel is a proper way. I was looking at maybe using these things but would still need to figure out connecting the T to my ForeverFlex Liner:
(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5SP-4PVP-TB)
(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5SP-4PVP-ADB)

 

[defield]

Rickhorn,

I do not know the brands as the install was done by the stove shop.

I will give them a call the first of the week and see what, if anything, they will share for information.

I wanted to use a different style roof cap than the standard they use, but unfortunately, they were not very helpful. Ended up taking the unit they use ( that resembles a chicken feeder) to a specialty coating shop and paid too much to have it powder coated black!!

Old Ranger

 

[richkorn]

Rickhorn,

I do not know the brands as the install was done by the stove shop.

I will give them a call the first of the week and see what, if anything, they will share for information.

I wanted to use a different style roof cap than the standard they use, but unfortunately, they were not very helpful. Ended up taking the unit they use ( that resembles a chicken feeder) to a specialty coating shop and paid too much to have it powder coated black!!

Old Ranger

Hey thanks that would be great if you could check on that. You wouldn't have any pics of the back of your stove to post would you?

Also, based on how the stove shop connected my stove in the back, I'm almost afraid to climb up and see what they did at the cap!

 

[defield]

Rickhorn,

PM sent.

Ranger

 

[richkorn]

A long time away from here...

Right now I'm not going to touch the venting since it works fine. I mentioned to my dealer/installer about the 'T' going inside the stove collar rather than the other way around (each exhaust piece into the next section). They said they do them all the time like that and seemed surprised that I questioned it. Anyway, after the warranty is up I believe I will change the venting using Simpson Dura-Vent Pellet Vent - a 4" stove adapter on the stove collar going 'into' a new 'T" and then into the 4" ForeverFlex chimney liner. I think this will make for a more proper (and safe) venting set up.

-rk

 

[Dr_Drum]

Rich, I wouldn't worry about the fact the vent is on the inside (rather than the outside) in this case ONLY, providing it is a relatively tight fit, not floppy. The reason is because if you were to look at the exhaust end of the stove it is a circular connector, but inside it is a rectangle. hard to explain. The blower actually pushes air out through a rectangular hole in the back of the stove. The circular steel part can be completely removed with four nuts around a flange part. The rectangle is not as big as the circle. Clear as mud?
With that said, I used RTV and mounted an adapter to mine. I completely pull the exhaust off (minus the adapter) and cap the hole in the house during summer. An adapter will probably make things easier for you.

Mike -

 

[richkorn]

Hey Mike, hope all is well and thanks for the reply. It's a real tight fit in the back and they siliconed it besides the aluminum tape. Some time down the road I'll replace it as stated.

-Rich

 

[summit]

many of these liner kits fit into/onto the variety of stoves out there differently... you will thank them for the foil tape when you have to disconnect to clean out past the motor housing, as it is easy to take apart/reinstall... that being said, if it don't leak smoke, you are in good shape. if it did, you would probably be pretty po'd.

 

[Dr_Drum]

Hey Mike, hope all is well and thanks for the reply. It's a real tight fit in the back and they siliconed it besides the aluminum tape. Some time down the road I'll replace it as stated.

-Rich

All is well, thanks for asking. I guess I should start thinking about another winter season as well. If you just want to disconnect the vent from the stove for cleaning or something, but don't want to tear apart the tape and silicone, you can unbolt the whole connector. Mine had a white reuseable fiberglass type of gasket.

Mike -