Wall snout connection for relining chimney

[TeamCav]

On suggestion of another post, I sent back all the big box brand pellet vent and the liner I didn't like. Reordering all pellet vent pro 4" and duraflex 4" liner. I can't get a straight answer on what's best for connecting the T snout to my stove through an 11" deep masonry horizontal wall. The average snout is 8" long and I've had ideas to connect that snout with a pelletvent pro flex connector to a 12" straight pipe through a thimble I already own, or just order a 12" snout that will stick out the thimble about an inch, and connect with the pellet vent pro connector to that right to the 90 degree elbow. Even though it's more leak points I'm thinking maybe the snout is too thin and will get too hot to be allowed to protrude out of the masonry into the basement? This is the only thing holding me up here. The photos are of the venting I was test fitting before I sent those pieces back because I was very unhappy with the connections. The T will need to be propped on fire brick as there is roughly a 7 inch drop vertically past the masonry hole if I recall correctly. I can elaborate more with specific parts if needed. Thank you folks.

 

[tbear853]

Are you planning to A) ... just connect pellet vent to the existing old flue
... or ...
are you planning to B) ... run pellet vent through the older flue all the way to the end?

 

[TeamCav]

Hi, thanks for your response. I'm running pelletvent pro through the existing flue, and a duravent 4" liner on the vertical portion of the flue, all the way up to a new cap. I ran my initial idea by my stove manufacturer to connect the pellet vent to the snout inside the horizontal masonry versus ordering an extra long snout to stick out in the basement, and they seem to be leaning towards the former idea. I sent them photos. I've seen snouts sticking out of masonry into stove location before, but that's a single wall item and would get hot as heck, right?

 

[tbear853]

Pellet vent is stainless steel lined for corrosive hot pellet gasses I was told long ago. Maybe I worded that wrong? Hot pellet gasses if run through a single wall pipe might condense inside if really cold air strikes outside. There is an outer wall of galvanized tin, and in between is an air space, so no cold air hits that inner wall of SS.. The inner wall in pellet vent gets really hot near the stove. The outer wall is pretty warm near the stove too. Being inside an existing flue too, I think they told you right. It's not like you are gonna have combustibles near a joint inside a flue. Convection in the flue will tend to carry any extra heat up and out with the hot pellet pie keeping it warm. I'd probably just put a round disc of metal over the existing flu larger opening into the room with a precise hole in center for pellet pipe ... but yes, run pellet vent all the way to exit at top.

 

[TeamCav]

Pellet vent is stainless steel lined for corrosive hot pellet gasses I was told long ago. Maybe I worded that wrong? Hot pellet gasses if run through a single wall pipe might condense inside if really cold air strikes outside. There is an outer wall of galvanized tin, and in between is an air space, so no cold air hits that inner wall of SS.. The inner wall in pellet vent gets really hot near the stove. The outer wall is pretty warm near the stove too. Being inside an existing flue too, I think they told you right. It's not like you are gonna have combustibles near a joint inside a flue. Convection in the flue will tend to carry any extra heat up and out with the hot pellet pie keeping it warm. I'd probably just put a round disc of metal over the existing flu larger opening into the room with a precise hole in center for pellet pipe ... but yes, run pellet vent all the way to exit at top.

Very informative. Thank you.

 

[bholler]

Running a liner through the chimney is the right way to do it extend the snout out of the wall with stainless pipe and connect your pellet vent to that. It helps allot of you insulate that liner as well